Recent content by K-rover

When I shift out of second gear down to 1 it doesn't quite "click in" and it doesn't show any gear selection on the dash display. I'm used to getting a click When it's in gear. It's almost like there isn't anything past 2nd. And yes all other gears work and show correctly.

Yeah I saw that tool. I already took that nut off when I removed the xyz to take the transmission out. I'm going to try loosening that nut along with the 2 that hold the switch. It only needs a little adjusting to click 1st gear. I just haven't messed with the xyz before so wasn't sure if I was...

I just swapped out my original trans to a lower mile unit I picked up from Will. Everything seems good except I can't manually shift down to 1st. I'm guessing the xyz isn't adjusted right? All other gears show up and work fine. I get a blank display when I pull the shifter past 2nd. Any tips...

The RTE coils are a progressive springs. It's night and day difference in rife with them. These are my old TF springs vs the new RTE. The TF were 3" D1 coils that net 4" on a D2. The RTE are 4.5" lift but the truck sits exactly the same height with the RTEs as it did with the TF.

Ive been running the blue (soft) poly on the radius arm frame side. The axle sides are orange (medium). They've held up great over the last 10yrs. At some point I might move to the Adrenaline 4x4 arms with heims instead of bushings at the frame end.

I challenge that statement as I've had my front radius arm bushings for 10yrs now and they're still perfect. And the truck can flex more than most. I tried rubber on the rear arms. They lasted one off road trip before they were destroyed.

I agree it works really well, until you come out and see. A puddle of fluid from a leaky ram. Then you realize parts are either hard to find or ridiculously expensive. For me, removing it is one less leak or thing to fail. But I can see the appeal of having it once you've driven one with ACE.

If you replaced the hose and it's still leaking, I would guess the tank itself is cracked.

Honestly I don't remember. They were pretty stiff though. Especially compared to the RTE as they are a progressive rate spring.

The light is still on, but can turned off with a good scan tool. I just haven't messed with it. I ran with no sway bars for a while, but now have standard sway bars with disconnects.

I removed all the components on mine and ran the shorter belt. No issues but again I removed the rams, lines and pump

I bet it's the TF springs. I had TF springs with Fox shocks and poly bushings. It wasn't great. Switched to RTE 4.5" progressive springs and now it rides pretty damn good! Well, better than you think for a D2 on 35s. It can do 70mph all day long with one hand on the wheel. My shocks, radius...

My spare is an At at half tread and it barely fit. Even with deflating it.

My guess is that it's not a Rover specific wheel. Probably a 5x4.75 Gm wheel.

Yep 265-65r18 is the sweet spot with no lift. I have no rubbing on mine except full lock on access mode