LR3 Brake PAD Replacement

Robert Page

Well-known member
Dec 8, 2007
102
0
Avalon Beach, FL
I am getting close to needing to replace the rear brake pads on the 05 LR3. I am trying to consolidate the info needed to do this DIY job here in the LR3 forum.

Does anyone have the torque specs for the caliper bolts and bracket bolts? Does anyone have the spec pad thickness for changing them according to LR? I have read the min spec is 3mm and been told to change them at 4mm, again no verification.

Edit: SEE NEXT POST FOR SPECS

Have found the Wagner Thermoquiet pads at $42 rear/$48 front at O'Rileys. No wear sensors included. Rockauto has Monroe pads with the sensors.

EDIT: O'Riley's states they will warrant if they wear out and the wear is even...... I'm in!!
 
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Robert Page

Well-known member
Dec 8, 2007
102
0
Avalon Beach, FL
Specs for Brakes from Service manual. Thanks to Wiggs on Disco3.co.uk!

Wheel Nuts - 140 Nm (103 lb.ft).
Anchor Plate Bolts - 115 Nm (85 lb.ft)
Guide Pin Bolts - 32 Nm (24 lb.ft)
Brake Disc Retaining Screw (Torx) - 35 Nm (26 lb.ft)
Brake Hose Retaining Bracket - 25 Nm (18 lb.ft)
Front Brake Hose Union to Caliper - 32 Nm (24 lb.ft)
Rear Brake Hose Union to Caliper - 28 Nm (21 lb.ft)
Bleed Screw - 14 Nm (10 lb.ft)


Front - Brake disc thickness - NEW 27 mm, Service Limit = 24 mm
Rear - Brake disc thickness, NEW = 20.0 mm (0.78 in), Service limit = 17.0 mm (0.67 in)
Disc Run Out - must not exceed 0.3 mm
Pad minimum thickness 3.0 mm (0.12 in)

Wear sensors must be replaced if warning is actuted.

Hope this helps someone! :) :)
 
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Robert Page

Well-known member
Dec 8, 2007
102
0
Avalon Beach, FL
Did this today. 1 hour including removing mud!! Do one side at a time.

Rear Brake Pad Replacement (Front is similar):

1. Jack up support the truck on the frame with jack stands.
2. Remove wheel & Tire (torque lug nuts to 103 ft lb on reinstall)
3. Clean all mud/dirt with low pressure water hose and soft brush. Be careful of wear sensor on right side. (Left side on front brakes)

IMG_0605.jpg This is the sensor.

4. Tools you need:

13mm 6pt socket and ratchet
Torque Wrench
8" C Clamp
Small Block of wood or old pad
Needle Nose Pliers ( You MAY need these to GENTLY coax the wear sensor out)
15mm Open End Wrench
Common Screwdriver, 6" (for easing out the pads)
Bungee Cord (for supporting the Caliper out of the way)

IMG_0606.jpg


5. CAREFULLY remove the wear sensor by pulling it straight back and out. It is held in by a spring clip.

IMG_0599-1.jpg The clip is in the top of the inside pad in the caliper, look close!

6. Remove the bleeder screw cover and remove the clip holding the wear sensor cable. Carefully move the sensor and cable out of the way.

IMG_0594-1.jpg

7. Remove the brake caliper lower bolt. You will use the 15mm wrench to hold the slide and the 13mm to remove the bolt.

8. Rotate the caliper upward and support it with the bungee cord. These pads a 4mm thick or about .130". The limit is .12" or 3 mm. If the wear sensor is activated, you need to install a new sensor. (These were Federo pads with only 9000 miles on them!)

IMG_0599-1.jpg

9. Remove the outer pad by sliding it out of the clips. Install the new pad into the clips. NOTE: If your pads a chamfered on only one edge, the chamfer will go to the leading edge or toward the rotation while moving forward.

IMG_0601-1.jpg

10. Remove the inner pad carefully. RETAIN the wear sensor spring clip!! Install the spring clip in the new pad and slip the new pad into the clips. Notice the spring clip installs in the narrow ridge that fits into the groove in the wear sensor.

IMG_0604-1.jpg

11. Using the C Clamp and block of wood or old pad, compress the piston back into the caliper. Do not compress it too far and pinch the seal around the piston. Remove the C Clamp.

IMG_0597-1.jpg

12. Remove the bungee cord and rotate the caliper down and over the new pads. You may have to move it outward on the slides to clear the outside pad.

13. Install the lower caliper bolt. Hold the inner nut with the wrench and torque the bolt to 26 ft lbs.

14. Reattach the wear sensor cable support to the bleeder screw. Reinstall the bleeder screw cap.

15. Carefully reinstall the wear sensor into the inner pad clip.

16. Reinstall wheel and torque lug nuts to 103 ft lbs.

Use the same procedure for the left side. There is no wear sensor on the left side.

Start the truck and depress the brakes a few times to seat the caliper piston against the pads.

You are done!!
 
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SteveA

Well-known member
Oct 8, 2004
218
0
Louisville, KY
Just hope you don't have to replace the sensor. Tracing the end of the sensor wire to the connector is a pain in the ass. On mine, the connector was burried on top of the frame. I had to twist my arm around from the back forward and up to reach it and pull it out of the clip on the frame. Not a great design.
 

RVRSRVC

Well-known member
May 7, 2004
1,163
0
Elizabethtown, PA
www.roverlab.com
Nice help! I have a comment about pushing the piston back in. I have always open the bleed screw when pushing the piston in so that the fluid was pushed out instead of back up stream. My reasoning was that that's where most of any debris would settle-the lowest point- and that that fluid is likely to have been exposed to the most heat. The downside is if you fumble and introduce air and possibly creating the need for a ECU controlled bleed procedure-like on a D2 with a scan tool and power bleed function.

My D3 brakes have squealed since I bought it. 35k and the dealer tells me they are down to 2 and 4mm, although the sensor light has not come on. Yet. Bought a complete set of Brembo pads and rotors and plan to do them as soon as I finish the 88" on the lift.
 

landroverox

New member
Oct 24, 2008
1
0
How difficult is it to replace the disc when you are replacing the pads, and has anyone had any luck with the packaged sets from atlantic british?
 

Robert Page

Well-known member
Dec 8, 2007
102
0
Avalon Beach, FL
UPDATE: Front Pads and Front Wear Sensor Location

I let the fronts trigger the wear sensor so I had to change it. Part Number SEM000024, $26.00 delivered from British Atlantic. Use the same proceedure as the rear brakes. All torque values are the same. Find that thin wrench! I use a small cresent wrench. I used the same brand pads I put on the rear. The rears are wearing well, no squealing.

The connector is located behind the fender liner directly above the height sensor. It is mounted to to an integrated bracket to the frame. I removed the entire left side inner fender liner, but you could remove just a few of the clips and pull down the liner to change the sensor. Be sure you route the cable exactly the same and install ALL clips.

FYI, in a jam, just cut the wire and short the leads. This will turn off the light and stop the BEEPING. Don't run long like this!!

Location of Connector:
Front Wear Sensor Location.JPG

Wear Sensor, Good and Bad:
Front Wear Sensor.JPG

:patriot:
 
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A

acsubie

Guest
THANKS FOR THE WRITE UP!!!

Was hesitant to try it, but pretty straight forward, did it myself in a little over 2hrs and I even rotated my tires. My sensors hadnt triggered so did not purchase them.

Only hiccup i ran into was the front sensor(had to be the last to complete also) was a bit worn, was also a tad difficult to pull out from the pad, but I managed.

Saved myself a few bux and learned a little.
 

JustAddMtns

Well-known member
Jun 22, 2007
1,877
0
NC
You can take it or leave it, but I carefully pulled my sensors and zipped tied them back neatly out of the way last year. No problems as of yet.
 

mburke3574

New member
Mar 21, 2011
1
0
North Carolina
2006 LR3 - Great post. Got my highly recommended Akebono EURO Ceramic fronts and rears from AutohauzAZ.com
Fronts: W0133-1844648 $84.22
Rears: W0133-1851653 $73.84
Free and Fast Shipping
Easy install, great pads.
 

mirepoixmatt

New member
Oct 17, 2010
1
0
Gents: Great thread. The dealer is begging me to do my fronts and rears for $1300.00. No dice. Pads have been purchased and feel confident I can accomplish the job. That is, when someone explains how I can get my damn tires off. After almost exploding a nut I got all of my lug nuts off... only to find the wheel sitting in place as if it were still bolted there. Both Front tires were like this. I tried the kick it like a mule method, but the thing didn't budge. IS there something I'm doing wrong? Do I need to douse the thing with KY? why won't my tires come off?

help.

Matt
 
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bakjar

Member
Apr 13, 2011
7
0
Colorado
Yeah. Thanks. Less than 400 for full rebuild kit. Easy job. Except replacing front wear sensor is a pain. But still worth the 600-800$ savings