D1 load space aluminum shelf

Tugela · Jan 9, 2017

Over the rainy Seattle weekend I built a shelf for the load space of my Disco. A while back I read a recommendation for EZ Tube on another build thread and decided to give it a go. I wanted a shelf that was strong, light, and low volume. Plywood and lumber would be strong, but heavy and bulky. These are the results:

A full write-up of the build is on my blog here, including lists of tools and materials used. Plus there are some photos of my dog. This approach won't be to everyone's liking but the finished product meets my particular needs.

robertf · Jan 9, 2017

Is it secured to the floor?

1920SF · Jan 9, 2017

Looks quite good, but as you note in the blog and asked here-may be worth finding a way to attach it to the floor. Otherwise, seems very solid and nicely put together.

kk88rrc · Jan 9, 2017

Looks nice. Have you considered using the EZ Tube base plates to secure it?

Tugela · Jan 9, 2017

kk88rrc said:
Looks nice. Have you considered using the EZ Tube base plates to secure it?

I didn't look at the base plates, I'll have to check those out. Thanks for the suggestion.

Tugela · Jan 9, 2017

After looking at the EZ Tube base plates I don't think I want to use those. Instead I think I will rivet small D-rings to the inside of the two outermost legs of the shelf and bolt two more to the floor of the cargo space, then connect them with a 3/4" flat webbing strap tightened with a ladder-lock buckle. I installed D-ring lash points on the floor of my last Disco and used them a lot. This would give me more versatility and a less obtrusive securing mechanism. The wheel well side of the shelf will be held in place by the angle of the rear seats against which it's wedged. Even in a roll-over this should keep the shelf in place and contain anything underneath it from bouncing around.

p m · Jan 9, 2017

Tugela said:
After looking at the EZ Tube base plates I don't think I want to use those. Instead I think I will rivet small D-rings to the inside of the two outermost legs of the shelf and bolt two more to the floor of the cargo space, then connect them with a 3/4" flat webbing strap tightened with a ladder-lock buckle. I installed D-ring lash points on the floor of my last Disco and used them a lot. This would give me more versatility and a less obtrusive securing mechanism. The wheel well side of the shelf will be held in place by the angle of the rear seats against which it's wedged. Even in a roll-over this should keep the shelf in place and contain anything underneath it from bouncing around.

Nick, you really don't want the back of the rear seat hold your shelf and all that's above and below it in case of a rollover. All that keeps the seat from moving is the latch on the side - which isn't that great to begin with.
Do yourself a favor, and at least add a strap attached to the seat belt attachment bolts. There's really no excuse for unsecured bulk load and shelving.

robertf · Jan 9, 2017

I was wondering about that. So a 50lb pelican case won't pop the tubes off the nodes?

Tugela · Jan 9, 2017

Good points. I think a cam strap (like these, of which I have a handful) run from the cross bars of the shelf frame to D-rings bolted through the floor of the cargo area would be a more robust approach to securing the shelf.

p m · Jan 9, 2017

Cam straps are worthless in securing nearly-incompressible objects. It takes about an inch of strap travel for the cam to properly bite into the strap - and if your setup is not yielding this much, you will never be able to tighten one up. In this respect, it is better to have a fixed-length strap or chain, even if it is not taut.

Jeff Blake · Jan 9, 2017

Nice work. I dig it. I'm considering a similar mod myself, but I'd like the shelf to be up high, like the Mantec Load Lugga, for storing light items like sleeping bags, clothing, etc.

Tugela · Jan 9, 2017

p m said:
Cam straps are worthless in securing nearly-incompressible objects. It takes about an inch of strap travel for the cam to properly bite into the strap - and if your setup is not yielding this much, you will never be able to tighten one up. In this respect, it is better to have a fixed-length strap or chain, even if it is not taut.

My experience with cam straps has been different. I worked as a whitewater rafting guide for 5 years and used these exact straps for a wide range of applications, including securing incompressible objects: coolers and Pelican cases to frames, frames to trailers, kayaks to roof racks, etc. In many cases these scenarios included surprisingly high loads - objects under hundreds of PSI (visualize pulling a flipped raft off a dead tree it was pinned against with all submerged gear taking the brunt of the current) - and I never experienced any problem with the cam engaging the strap. I'm also fastidious about having enough tail (insert joke here) and backing up the cam with a quick-release hitch.

Alternatively I could use an appropriately-sized quickdraw from my climbing gear collection. Those are rated to 23KN - if I come close to that kind of load I have much bigger problems than securing my shelf. The frame tubing will have sheared long before that point.

I will also be removing the rubber load space mat before installing the shelf for trips. That's another hunk of weight under the shelf I won't be using and I don't want to cut a hole through that to access the D-ring mounted on the floor.

p m · Jan 9, 2017

Nick,
The cam strap applications you listed all likely allowed the strap to extend at least an inch before the cam locking into it. When you use it for the shelf, all there's in the strap is about a foot (unless you run the strap across the entire shelf with stuff on it).
But it's your truck, and your confidence in never having an accident.

D Chapman · Jan 15, 2017

That's a lot of work. I just bolted some 1"x1" square stock to the jumpseat mounting brackets and decked it with a shelving board.

Tugela · Jan 15, 2017

No question, my approach was not the simplest solution. Your shelf looks like it does its job well, but for my specific needs (dog platform, ease of installation/removal, need to put taller objects underneath) it would not fit the bill.

ukoffroad · Jan 15, 2017

I like it, easy to remove and I could adjust to my needs. I have been looking for something to go over the spare, I hate having it on the door.

discostew · Jan 15, 2017

I like that it comes out. Would like it to bolt to the truck. Tie down everything you wouldn't want to drop on your face.

Tugela · Jan 15, 2017

discostew said:
I like that it comes out. Would like it to bolt to the truck. Tie down everything you wouldn't want to drop on your face.

Working on that. Stand by. I have the design for securing the shelf to the floor, just need to find the time to install.

Tugela · Jan 28, 2017

Right. I have secured the shelf to the floor of the truck. It's strong. It retains the original design element of being quick to install and remove. This project is now done. For all the details on the additional modifications, here's the addendum to my original blog post.

The short version:

bolted D-rings to the shelf frame
bolted D-rings to the cargo area floor
connected D-rings with climbing slings and carabiners

The highlights:

D-rings on shelf frame rail-

D-rings on cargo area floor-

Shelf connected to floor with Spectra sling (23kN breaking strength) and carabiner (18kN breaking strength). No slack, quick and easy.

fishEH · Jan 28, 2017

I see slack. Why not use something like these? https://m.lowes.com/pd/Stanley-Nati...uminum-Steel-Hook-and-Hook-Turnbuckle/1182073

D1 load space aluminum shelf

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Administrator

Well-known member

Well-known member

Administrator

Well-known member

Well-known member

Administrator

1

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member