Quality Coat/Jacket

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,899
450
Darien Gap
Looking for a new good quality jacket. Barbour is too country Gucci, Belstaff too moto-Gucci, and most everything else is just chinesium hipster garb, or a soup of trendy tech I don't need on most outings.

Some of Kuhl's designs are ok, but the quality isn't there, and many are over-styled.

Orvis also has some tempting offerings but also veer into the country Gucci/fly fishing styled thing too much.

This looks decent: https://www.filson.com/kodiak-insulated-jacket.html

Anywhere else I should look?
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
You might consider leather, if it's appropriate for your use. If that's the case, it's hard to do better than Wested Leather in the in England. They'll make anything you want, and I've actually been over there for tailoring. Great people, and the products are classically durable. I've got at least 20,000 miles of travel on one of mine, in pretty bad conditions around the world.

I'll post a picture of that one soon for reference.

Filson jackets are still top-notch, though, if you like them. I've got two. Orvis doesn't have much of a warranty, and some of my relatively recent purchases have been falling apart. I don't think they're what they used to be. It's not terrible, but it'll get there soon, I think.

I've had a few Carhartt zippers break, which is strange given they are using YKK products; or so it appeared. I've never seen a full-size brass YKK break before.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

SGaynor

Well-known member
Dec 6, 2006
7,148
162
52
Bristol, TN
Check out Duluth Trading Co.

I bought this last fall thinking it was an insulated shirt. Nope, not even close. It's a jacket. The outer is heavy canvas and the lining is fleece. Kept me warm down to 10F (as cold as it got here) with just a polo shirt with a long sleeve shirt under it. Kept me dry short of a major down pour too.


The version with front hand pockets (I wish I had got this one):
 

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,899
450
Darien Gap
Check out Duluth Trading Co.

I bought this last fall thinking it was an insulated shirt. Nope, not even close. It's a jacket. The outer is heavy canvas and the lining is fleece. Kept me warm down to 10F (as cold as it got here) with just a polo shirt with a long sleeve shirt under it. Kept me dry short of a major down pour too.


The version with front hand pockets (I wish I had got this one):

That's probably ideal for our mountain outings. Cheap enough to get muddy and plunge through brush, durable enough to take it.
 
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ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,899
450
Darien Gap
You might consider leather, if it's appropriate for your use. If that's the case, it's hard to do better than Wested Leather in the in England. They'll make anything you want, and I've actually been over there for tailoring. Great people, and the products are classically durable. I've got at least 20,000 miles of travel on one of mine, in pretty bad conditions around the world.

I'll post a picture of that one soon for reference.

Filson jackets are still top-notch, though, if you like them. I've got two. Orvis doesn't have much of a warranty, and some of my relatively recent purchases have been falling apart. I don't think they're what they used to be. It's not terrible, but it'll get there soon, I think.

I've had a few Carhartt zippers break, which is strange given they are using YKK products; or so it appeared. I've never seen a full-size brass YKK break before.

Cheers,

Kennith

Not sure I'm Harrison Ford enough, but I forgot about Wested. Quality products at least.

Carhartt has a few durable and functional rain jackets that seemed of decent quality. Much better than the typical thin poly/rubber.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Not sure I'm Harrison Ford enough, but I forgot about Wested. Quality products at least.

Carhartt has a few durable and functional rain jackets that seemed of decent quality. Much better than the typical thin polyester/rubber.

I actually just like the way that jacket fits, with a couple of modifications; and it looks good anywhere. Style doesn't get more timeless than that.

The large collar is nice for rain and chilly wind. I'll probably end up having another one made at some point, and putting a snap up there or something so I can keep it closed; or just having some mods done when I send it for a new liner.

They will absolutely go full custom. They just do a lot of movie stuff and people are attracted to that, so that's where the marketing focus is. The guy that runs the joint is one bad motherfucker, and very nice. He's the kind of guy everyone wants to know. Everyone is, and their stuff is made right there, by hand (obviously with the aid of a few sewing machines), and beautifully.

The prices are extremely good, as well. Quite often you'll pay more for Chinese crap.

I think you'd be happy with Filson coats, or Wested, if you go leather. They'll use other materials, but obviously that's their focus. Hell, they'll make you gloves from scratch if you like.

Filson sizing can be a bit odd for people of my shape. I'm short, but I'm a triangle. I have trouble everywhere finding stuff that fits right, but they can run larger or smaller depending upon whether it's an outer layer or inner. Their stuff is designed specifically to be worn over insulation, which is the way it should be. Don't think you'll toss it over a T shirt and be ready for winter.

Wested sizing... Go get measured for a tailored suit first. It's going to fit precisely how you want it to.

Check out my man with a smoke in front and booze in the back, ready for action. Sixteen tons of confidence. The coat I had made that day was ready the next morning, and he even dropped me off at a bed and breakfast, as I'd walked there.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

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kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
The best civilian field jacket I've ever owned is actually made by Columbia, under their seemingly short-lived "River Lodge" brand. They'd intended to launch a brand similar to Orvis, Filson, and the like, I suppose. The damned thing is nice, and it's machine washable; even the leather trim doesn't care. It's extremely comfortable, just the right insulation for year-round use, and they nailed the hand warmer pocket location better than anyone.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

seventyfive

Well-known member
Jan 3, 2010
4,280
100
over there
Go to Quebec City. There is a shop in lower town about 30 or 50 feet from the bottom of the stairs. They sell nothing but fur. Shit tons of shops in QC sell fur.

Or get on eBay and search for vintage fur.


Unless you’re specifically looking for ‘I’m an avid outdoorsman’

Pure functional, fur and leather.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Filson is more down to earth than Barbour's landed gentry image and products. Change my mind.

Oh, there's a big difference, and you're on to it.

Barbour is a fashion brand with a few traditional products. Filson is a traditional brand with a few fashion products.

It's night and day between the two.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
It looks like Tilley is making a field jacket, as well.

As much as Canada makes me grind my teeth, their stuff is outstanding. Historically, it's pretty much been a lifetime purchase.

https://www.tilley.com/us_en/ma17-legends-jacket.html

These patterns exist for a reason. They got the adventure rep because they're good for it; being designed specifically for expeditionary campaigns well over a century ago, and finally being nearly perfected in WWII. One of the last steps was the M-1965. Along the way, it bled into civilian use in various forms, and naturally found it's way into "adventure" stuff.

They're not for extreme conditions, but they're great for most of what you'll encounter, convenient, and comfortable, so long as they're made properly.

Leather and fur are truly the only long-standing alternatives. The new stuff is too focused on the next trend or just differentiating itself from the next guy over, and it's changing all the time with no real results beyond materials.

The "work jacket" that's become quite synonymous with Filson, Carhartt, and so on is simply a cut down, less insulated field jacket.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Just buy a higher end Carhartt jacket...

It's construction Gucci

Don't be an asshole

I've got four pairs of identical Carhartt's most notable pants. Each fits completely differently right down to the cut, the colors are inconsistent, and so are the fabrics used in construction. One has a broken zipper, and another is at least three inches too large.

The numbers are the same; verified by Carhartt. They're proud of those pants, and you have no idea what you're going to get when you buy them. Their other stuff is getting the same way, including my two identical insulated hoodies; both of which fit differently, and one of which lost it's zipper in a year.

Those guys aren't exactly cheap. If they priced things according to their construction quality those pants would by $10-$15.

Funny... The one such brand that doesn't seem to understand construction is Carhartt. They need to step their game back up, because I'm not so sure they're actually worth giving money to, at this point. They used to be solid, but not even the forestry guys I know are buying their stuff, anymore.

I'm more likely to see it on a college student than a laborer these days. It kind of sucks that happened.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,706
1,015
Northern Illinois
That's probably ideal for our mountain outings. Cheap enough to get muddy and plunge through brush, durable enough to take it.
Oh yea. All that fire hose shit from them is durable as hell. I got the pants wet one time and paid a heavy price. But I was submerged and not just rain
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Oh yea. All that fire hose shit from them is durable as hell. I got the pants wet one time and paid a heavy price. But I was submerged and not just rain

It can shrink like a motherfucker if you're not careful, though. I've seen the pants drop two sizes, and consistency is a little iffy, but they're tough, and that crotch gusset is quite nice. I just wish they'd up the attention to detail a bit and bring more production over here. It just has this "third world tailored" aspect that I can't wash out of my mind.

They're so close to really being noteworthy, but they keep missing the boat; not by much, but you don't have to miss a boat by much to end up swimming.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

mgreenspan

Well-known member
Feb 28, 2005
4,723
130
Briggs's Back Yard
Take a look at Dale of Norway. I’ve been using one of their weatherproof jackets since 2010 and it’s still great. Their styling is hit or miss some years. The ones from back then were a bit more jacket and a bit less sweater than their current line up. I highly recommend their products if you want durability, warmth, and dryness.