Long travel rear sway bar on D1

Jimmy

Well-known member
Apr 10, 2006
740
64
Aurora, CO
Inspirations:
Frank's D2 long travel front sway bar setup (lacking pics due to Photobucket change): https://discoweb.org/showthread.php?t=80297
Foundry 4x4 X-Deflex unlocking rear sway bar: https://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=78&search=sway [read a couple of overseas forum threads showing problems with the curved arm of this kit, mainly it bending/being too weak and needing reinforcement]
Pirate4x4 thread on sway bars: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/817454-sway-bar-calculator.html
TK 1 sway bar kits and recommendations (link length, offset, etc.): http://store.tk1racing.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=56

Parts:
Speedway Engineering for torsion bar and arms: http://1speedway.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=76
Appropriate ID bushing (based on torsion bar OD) and locking collars
Mounting can be done to the factory brackets with a spacer, or with custom mounts to the frame, or to the face of a strong gas tank skid plate
Links of the appropriate length
Mounts of some kind to connect the links to the axle housing

Why: With the challenging flex from the radius arm front, a rear sway bar can force more work/flex from the front. Also, I had grown tired of the sway on the road (partly due to my shocks being way overdue for a rebuild).

My specifics, as this can be tailored six ways to Sunday so don't get locked into what I did:

Torsion bar length: Can be had in many different lengths. I went with 40.5" overall to ensure the arms, particularly the driver's side, cleared everything which was mainly the exhaust pipe (mine exits out the rear).



Torsion bar size: I didn't want to go too strong and make a mess of the handling. I went with a hollow (versus solid) 1" OD .120" wall (Speedway Engineering # 608-100-120). This one was selected in conjunction with the arm length I expected to have (~12" IIRC; I'll need to measure). I like the feel of it on my setup, but I really don't have much to compare to (bought my rig already lifted and no sway bars)... I can say it definitely helps on the road without feeling like it's overpowering.

Arm distance between the torsion bar and link mount: Think of this as a lever. This chart is for the torsion bar I chose (mine is specifically the 608-100-120-40.5): http://1speedway.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=18 As you will see, the longer the distance, the less of an effect the setup has. This is why you see race trucks, etc. with arms or brackets with multiple holes in them... so they can adjust. So, you need to have this number mostly figured out so you pick the appropriate torsion bar.

Arms: Make sure they match the OD and spline count of your torsion bar, for one. Also, account for the travel. I went with the 30 degree angled steel arms (Speedway Engineering # 617-1) on both sides. It is really handy on the driver's side to get around the exhaust; technically you probably could get a straight arm for the other side, but my OCD tendencies preferred the same arm on both sides.



Links: Go with whatever floats your boat. I prefer a rubber/poly bushing to a metal, spherical bushing. You have to drill the arms to mount, so take this into consideration with whatever you choose. Recommendations I found said to use a link length which matches or exceeds the shock travel, which in my case is 12". I dug around and decided to go with a Ford truck link (Moog K80269) with a stud size of 1/2" (IIRC). Since the arms I used are 3/4" thick, these links just barely worked; a regular nut threads on fully without the stud poking through. Provided were nylon locking nuts and they didn't thread on far enough to engage the nylon portion (so, just throw on thread locker). I looked for some time for a ball joint-style link, but never found one I though would work (most were car links and looked too weak to hold up to wheeling). The Ford ones use rubber, and even after flexing it way out, the rubber hasn't torn yet (turns out it doesn't get as abused as I initially thought).

Torsion bar mounting bushing: Must match the bar OD. Since mine was 1", there's plenty of choices. I needed the bracket which wraps around the bushing too, so you can go with a poly kit (several companies out there), or find an OEM option. I went with a Toyota [4Runner, I think] front sway bar bushing (Dorman 928-361), as I liked the embedded cloth within the bushing which allows the bar to turn smoothly.

Putting it all together:
As I said above, there's a few ways to mount the bar. I scrapped the idea of using the factory bracket, as I had smashed one at some point, which also buckled/bulged the frame. I decided to do an L-bracket off the side of the frame. I positioned it so that the bar wasn't too exposed; it just barely peeks out from behind the 255/85s. Ensure the arms are still long enough to work wherever you plan to mount the bar.

Arm length: I had to cut mine down, which worked out well. The stub of arm left over from cutting was long enough to use as the axle-end link mount.

Arm-to-link mounting: Those steel arms were a treat to drill to 1/2" without a press [sarcasm]. It can be done with a hand drill - I did it - but it was a pain. As most know, start with a small bit and work your way up.

Link-to-axle mounting: Pay attention to what you have to work around... the coil mount, brake line, ABS sensor wire, existing tapered pin sway bar bracket mount (I really wanted to find a way to use these, but simply didn't), etc. Consider the link's travel when flexing - you don't want to mount it somewhere which allows the link body to come into contact. Also, the recommendation I saw was to have an inch or two of separation, but that wasn't going to work with my links. So far, so good on my setup.

Some pics installed (don't mind the pumpkin spice latte undercoating... that's a whole other story):



To help pick out the components:



Relative to the 255/85-16 tires:



Other angles of the links and arms at ride height:







If I get it flexed out (and think of it), I'll post pics of that too.
 
Last edited:

Jimmy

Well-known member
Apr 10, 2006
740
64
Aurora, CO
Two and a half years later, I've learned one thing. Whenever I don't like the handling (feels too loose or there too much sway), I find the links (the aforementioned Ford truck links; Moog K80269) are shot. Turns out the rubber portion does not hold up well to the substantial flexing. I replaced them once with the same ones, and in anticipation of them failing in time, I did more research to find a better link. Don't use these.

I came across this Dodge truck link, Moog "Problem Solver" K750396. Can't recall what problem was being solved, but here's my observations. One end is a polyurethane bushing with a metal inner sleeve (like most of us have seen or used) and the other end is a ball joint (just what I wanted in the first place) and it is greasable. The hardware is 12mm, so it'll work with my setup (1/2" mounting holes). The provided bolt (M12 x 1.75 55mm 9.8) was too short for my mount, but a longer one (70mm was more than enough) did the trick.

I set up the axle mount using those offset Ford arms. So, the Dodge arms didn't pop right in. They are now angled inward some, which is actually a positive according to what I read at TK 1 Racing... but they probably had much more ambitious suspensions in mind (like Trophy Truck stuff).

Time will tell how they do. Given the better bushing and ball joint design, I anticipate this is a better solution.

0615201501_HDR.jpg

0615201504_HDR.jpg

0615201653_HDR.jpg
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,706
1,015
Northern Illinois
Looks like mustard all over that truck. Where does one find babyshit yellow mud like that? I can take you way up north in Iron County Wisconsin where the mud is rusty red because of all the iron in the ground. Puddles are blood red.

I like the sway bar set up. What springs are you running? I ask because I usually don't run sway bars at all. The truck I'm putting back together now has the lightest spring I've ever run. Trucks on a diet and I'm thinking I might get a lot of sway because of them.
 

Jimmy

Well-known member
Apr 10, 2006
740
64
Aurora, CO
Looks like mustard all over that truck. Where does one find babyshit yellow mud like that? I can take you way up north in Iron County Wisconsin where the mud is rusty red because of all the iron in the ground. Puddles are blood red.

I like the sway bar set up. What springs are you running? I ask because I usually don't run sway bars at all. The truck I'm putting back together now has the lightest spring I've ever run. Trucks on a diet and I'm thinking I might get a lot of sway because of them.

I took the legal route out of an area (others had been crossing private property [probably avoiding what I tackled], and the owner fenced off the illegal track) which had not been used in a very long time. It crossed a mine runoff bog which was loaded in rusty colored goo. Had to winch myself through it (since it was much softer than preferred) to get to the other side. Left a mess underneath.

Springs are 2007-ish era RTE 3" linear front and rear. Shocks (in case that's the next question) are:
p/n 980-99-038-A Fox 2.0 Pro Series 11" Travel Smooth body Emulsion Shock with 5/8" shaft (and valved at my request to 85/95) in the front, and
p/n 980-99-027-A Fox 2.0 Pro Series 12" Travel Smooth body Emulsion Shock with 5/8" shaft (and valve at my request to 90/100) in the rear.

I've already switched up how the links are mounted to get them closer to vertical; now they're slightly bottom inward/top outward (as close to vertical as I can get without modifying). The angled approach in the above pic was not good. Did one offroad run on a moderate trail, and both arms were trying to walk themselves off the torsion bar. If I still have this issue after another rigorous trip, I'll most likely rework the axle mount to get the links vertical. Really wish I had found these links when I first built this. But, live and learn.
 

Jimmy

Well-known member
Apr 10, 2006
740
64
Aurora, CO
Over three years later, but not near as much wheeling as I used to do, and the Dodge truck links are still going strong. They are a great choice.

I'm not doing the aggressive offroading these days as I have in the past, so I'm firming up the suspension (like replacing soft/blue and yellow poly bushings with rubber in the panhard and radius arms, for starters). I want to get more firmness from the sway bar, so I pulled the arms and drilled two more sets of holes to reduce the distance from the bar and the link attachment point on the arm. I'll take it for a drive soon to see if I can tell a difference, or if I'll need to get a stiffer torsion bar... but won't do that until I do get it offroad and see how it behaves since that is its primary purpose.