U-Haul Car Hauler

Toran · May 7, 2021

Hello Good People,
Looks like the time has come for me to relocate a few hundred miles away. The D1 will be on a U-Haul car hauler. After watching several of these videos I am wondering if I may need any additional support at the rear of the truck besides the security chain?

Your feedback is much appreciated.
T.I.A.

Blueboy · May 7, 2021

Haven’t used a car hauler yet have shipped vehicles in sea containers. Front and rear was secured to the deck. For sure I’d strap down the rear using the tie down points already on the Rover.

Toran · May 7, 2021

Good tip! Thanks for the feedback

Blueboy · May 7, 2021

Toran said:
Good tip! Thanks for the feedback

Also look in the owners manual as seem to remember auto box and transfer case are in neutral.

terryjm1 · May 7, 2021

I have used the uhaul auto transport. I towed a D1 with one from Northern, Ca near Lake Tahoe to high elevation in New Mexico with a lot of hills and desert in between over those 1300 miles. I did not add additional securing to the rear. I did check the tension on the front straps at each fuel stop as if you don’t do it 100% correct they can loosen up. However, extra strapping / securing is never a bad idea. I just didn’t feel it was needed.

If you use a uhaul tow dolly, you need to disconnect the rear drive shaft.

However, on the full transport with all wheels off the ground, I can’t see why you would put it in neutral. I would leave it in park with the parking brake applied. That is what I have done.

I have towed with a dolly, full transport, and flat towed on all 4 wheels.

Flyfish · May 7, 2021

I’ve used that car hauler several times and they work great. Definitely no need for anything in neutral etc.

A rear strap isn’t necessary, but never hurts to have an extra strap on. And depending how big your tires are, you may need extensions for the front tire straps on the trailer. Or potentially you can air dow the tires a bit if you just need a little more.

Also, leave the truck unlocked while you’re towing. Otherwise it will think it’s being stolen and the alarm will go off.

DiscoHasBeen · May 8, 2021

As long as tongue weight, GVW, etc limits are meant then no, nothing additional needed. Uhaul is pretty good about not letting you rent a trailer that's oversized in relation to the vehicle pulling it.

Blueboy · May 8, 2021

terryjm1 said:
However, on the full transport with all wheels off the ground, I can’t see why you would put it in neutral. I would leave it in park with the parking brake applied. That is what I have done.

You’re correct for flat bedding. I got it confused with towing the Rover.

However, when in a sea container the wheels are only chocked and vehicle strapped so it rocks a little as the container is rocking. Not much yet still some. To avoid any stress on the auto box and transfer box both the shipping company and the LR dealer in Liechtenstein told me put both in neutral.

Blueboy · May 8, 2021

Flyfish said:
A rear strap isn’t necessary, but never hurts to have an extra strap on.

Feel sure UHaul agrees with this yet no doubt I’d feel better knowing the rear is secured as well. The rear attachment points are already there so why not use them.

bri · May 8, 2021

Flyfish said:
I’ve used that car hauler several times and they work great. Definitely no need for anything in neutral etc.

A rear strap isn’t necessary, but never hurts to have an extra strap on. And depending how big your tires are, you may need extensions for the front tire straps on the trailer. Or potentially you can air dow the tires a bit if you just need a little more.

Also, leave the truck unlocked while you’re towing. Otherwise it will think it’s being stolen and the alarm will go off.

A D1 alarm? Doubtful.

Flyfish · May 8, 2021

bri said:
A D1 alarm? Doubtful.

The first few good bumps will trigger the alarm every time in my 95 RRC. I wasn’t sure for a D1, just figured it was worth mentioning.

JohnnoK · May 8, 2021

Tie the axles and wheels down NOT the body.
Any bumps and bounces will be transfered to the suspension which is made for that, the chassis hard points are not meant for long term restraint.

bri · May 8, 2021

Flyfish said:
The first few good bumps will trigger the alarm every time in my 95 RRC. I wasn’t sure for a D1, just figured it was worth mentioning.

The only thing that has trigger the alarm in my 95, 97, 98's has been opening the door. Same for my 92, 93 RRC and 2002 P38. But... maybe all mine were faulty. Would not surprise me, LOL.

DiscoHasBeen · May 8, 2021

JohnnoK said:
Tie the axles and wheels down NOT the body.
Any bumps and bounces will be transfered to the suspension which is made for that, the chassis hard points are not meant for long term restraint.

Agreed. If you've ever looked closely at a semi trailer loaded with vehicles they almost always have a strap that goes around the wheel.

Flyfish · May 8, 2021

bri said:
The only thing that has trigger the alarm in my 95, 97, 98's has been opening the door. Same for my 92, 93 RRC and 2002 P38. But... maybe all mine were faulty. Would not surprise me, LOL.

Lol. It’s happened every time it’s locked and I started heading down the road. Mainly on long trips when I stop to rest in the middle of the night and forget it’s locked when I leave.

But doesn’t take long to notice in the rear view mirror some asshole in a white classic, just like mine, …… riding my ass, honking the horn with the hazards flashing! Whoops and pull over.

Blueboy · May 8, 2021

JohnnoK said:
Tie the axles and wheels down NOT the body.
Any bumps and bounces will be transfered to the suspension which is made for that, the chassis hard points are not meant for long term restraint.

The frame tie down points are used on RORO shipping vessels to transport the Rovers to the US. Actually first used / developed by Japan to lower shipping costs.
The question was is it worth while to additionally secure the rear after securing the front wheels with straps.
I’d use the rear tie down points just as additional security.

DiscoHasBeen · May 8, 2021

Blueboy said:
The frame tie down points are used on RORO shipping vessels to transport the Rovers to the US. Actually first used / developed by Japan to lower shipping costs.
The question was is it worth while to additionally secure the rear after securing the front wheels with straps.
I’d use the rear tie down points just as additional security.

IDK, he's kind of vague. Does he mean the security chains on the trailer that connects to the back of his truck, or the vehicle he is towing?

Blueboy · May 8, 2021

DiscoHasBeen said:
IDK, he's kind of vague. Does he mean the security chains on the trailer that connects to the back of his truck, or the vehicle he is towing?

Take a look at the video he first posted which I can’t get to play again. Pretty sure it showed chains around the rear axle yet not sure. And why he asked if maybe additional security is required.

Blue · May 8, 2021

I'd strap down the rear. Think of the physics if you slam on the brakes at speed or, worse yet, rear end someone or slam into something.

discostew · May 9, 2021

I would tie down the rear axle at both both sides and the front too if it’s not locked down by a winch. The ass end of the truck will move side to side. Plus if you have an accident I would want the Rover still attached to the trailer. State Troopers will feel the same way.

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