Many thanks!
I was guessing the center terminal!
Will try and get accomplished later today.
Thx again.
‘94 RRC LWB battery light
- Thread starter Blueboy
- Start date
I was guessing the center terminal!
Will try and get accomplished later today.
Thx again.
Ok, Alt + to alt housing 14.2 v lights on @idle
LR Test 1 1.12 v
LR Test 2 0.06 v
Double checked readings.
Checked voltage at battery terminals lights on @2,000 rpm 13.2 v which given accuracy of a cheap voltmeter makes sense.
Next step?
Thanks
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Think that points to a fault on the + side of the equation. The 94 I was lok at last night was wired differently than yours. His alt went to the starter. H’s really good with the rover electrics so just waiting to get his feedback on your readings.
Thanks. Appreciate the help.
Starter replaced in Liechtenstein LR dealer 2013.
Battery connections clean.
Alternator pumping out 14.2.
Wondering if cable between alternator and battery just old with high resistance?
Not sure if I can personally do test 1 at starter as if like my Disco starter really hidden and tough to get to.
However great starting point.
Really appreciate all your insight.
You could grab a spare piece of wire as an extension. Twist it on at the starter and use your meter on the other end of it up top.. Just remember that jumper wire will have juice!
Testing the starter should narrow it down further because it may be the cause.. It could just have a bad greasy Rover connection or possibly starting to go bad. After eight or nine years, you can’t assume the starter is 100% OK.
But actually let’s do two tests with that. On the starter, do test #1 alt + to starter +. But also do starter + to battery + . That may identify a bad connection or cable.
Very possible that a cable is damaged.
You never mentioned power for the starter.….You mentioned 2 real wires on the battery +….: Bat+ to Alt & a fuseable link.
Where is the starter getting power? It would have to be either the from Alt or direct from battery.
Also, someone previously must have changed your wire configuration. The alternator + should go to the starter and starter to battery+.
So everything so far makes me think the problem is starter related.
Where is the starter getting power? It would have to be either the from Alt or direct from battery.
Also, someone previously must have changed your wire configuration. The alternator + should go to the starter and starter to battery+.
So everything so far makes me think the problem is starter related.
Pretty sure Starter is lugged on battery positive terminal connection. Also you will see the brown wire from the alternator although not 100% sure if is direct as everything is wrapped in plastic. The other larger red cable is from the winch. The only change was the fuseable link and can’t remember why ECR installed it. Here is the battery connection layout as well as the fuseable link and stereo fuse:
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Yes, was thinking about a wire extension as well. What gauge do you think as will have to get some?
I don’t drive the Rangie that much so the starter doesn’t get used that often. However this engine always has been a hard one to start so it does spin more than usual. It was a pita when it started to go bad when in Switzerland.
I’ll get under it and look at the cleanliness of the area. Amazing enough this engine has zero leaks so underside really clean. It was also steamed cleaned when shipping it back to the US in 2016.
As power to starter directly from battery thinking is it necessary to go starter + to alternator +?
Thanks again for all the help.
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The extension I was talking about is just a piece of wire as an extension for the multimeter since the starter is difficult to reach.
Your multimeter leads are probably 18-20ga so you want a similar gauge piece of wire..
Yes, but don’t change anything at the moment.
We need to know where your starter is getting power from. Because theoretically there are two sources of power for the starter; the battery or the alternator, and you are not using either of them.
Good chance we will be able to solve this once we know that and the two starter voltage test readings.
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Starter is totally buried under heat shroud. How it is installed is way above my skill level. In any case power goes from starter directly to battery and is the lug on the + terminal.
However think I’ve found the problem. The cable has lost its integrity. Not touching the frame yet certainly not 100% for circuit continuity. Rover is garaged with mouse traps around it. God knows what vermin did this! Thoughts? See pics:
However think I’ve found the problem. The cable has lost its integrity. Not touching the frame yet certainly not 100% for circuit continuity. Rover is garaged with mouse traps around it. God knows what vermin did this! Thoughts? See pics:
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Ok, we did not know that before.
Let’s test the resistance on that cable. Remove the clamp from the battery positive and then remove all of the other cables from the clamp. Then unhook the other side from the starter so we can isolate and test only that cable.. Use your multimeter ohm setting to measure resistance between the connector on each side of that cable.
Technically there should be zero resistance. But if it shows any real resistance, that cable is damaged and that is your problem.
if that cable test good, then there may be an internal problem with the starter. Because someone didn’t want the alternator current going through the starter and moved the alt wire directly to the battery.
We’re very close to identifying the problem……..
FYI
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Thanks and was thinking the same yet not sure I’m able to get to the positive side of the starter from the garage floor. It is just totally buried within shields. Totally different from my D1 where I replaced the starter from the garage floor!
Amazing with the shape of the ground wire no problems on that side of the equation.
I’ll look again yet thinking without being on a lift really difficult to see the starter terminals. Your notes on the pics are really helpful!
When I brought the Rangie back to the US had the container shipped directly to ECR for a review. I remember Mike telling me the starter wasn’t installed properly by the Liechtenstein dealer and they fixed it.
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Hi again, looked more closely to see if I can get to positive side of starter. Unfortunately not. However in your diagram notes where you labeled Ground actually is the power cable to the starter from the battery. The stuff flaking is something that is wrapping the plastic surrounding the power cable. Not sure how the other cable / wire from the starter comes into play.
Greatly appreciate your help yet just too many wires going to too many places hidden in plastic covers!
No doubt the problem is unfortunately on the positive side. As Winter is once again settling in the Rangie is going into hibernation except for maybe short trips in the snow. The battery is trickle charged so it will be ok.
Many thanks again for your time and knowledge on this topic. Once it gets sorted will follow up on this thread.
Yea, they definitely didn’t make access easy! For the meter test, maybe use the extension on the alternator side. Because you can stand close to the starter and should be able to reach down in touch the starter connection with your meter lead.
And when you check starter to battery, you may not need the extension.
You’re a picture of the ground wire looks like the heat insulation was a little beat up but you can’t really see the wire itself.
Oh, gotcha. That may actually be good news!
It could be melted underneath that insulation so after the two starter test, when you isolate that cable from the battery and starter to test resistance, it may show you it’s bad and then we’ve solved it.
Wow, $48. They are proud of that one!
If that turns out to be bad, it may be worth measuring it and getting the $7 version from the local auto store.
