Recent content by chris1d2se7

Thanks for all the replies. One more question for the knowledgeable- Should I take the oil pan off to get to the 4 torque converter bolts? Thanks again Cheers

Greetings, A quick question about a D2 engine pull. Is it easier to pull engine with heads still on. Can you get to the top housing bolts without to much trouble? The heads have to come off anyway as they are going are the new block. Here is a pic: Thanks

Check for exhaust gases in the coolant. If it was overheating before it could be a slipped sleeve. Sorry to assume the worst, but you may want to start there before throwing in a new radiator.

Top hat liners (8) and machine work to install them isn't cheap.

You never know if someone has money or just doesn't want to throw it anyway on a crap motor. A well built 4.9 might be an option if I decide to keep and invest in the truck. It has some frame rust so I don't know, but these things can be fixed... It might be cool to have the only 4.9 engine around.

I knew I could count on dweb to give me the straight truth. I have never tore down a bottom end. So should I bother to tear the block down if it has metal throughout it? Do you think it is just junk? Here are some more pics. I don't know what happened to the valve train.

I have read that the 4.6s used red grade and sometimes yellow grade blocks due to core shift, while the 4.0s used blue grade and sometimes yellow grade blocks. This would mean that the chances are that the 4.6 blocks have thicker piston walls than the 4.0s. Make sense?

Hello, How much did your machine shop charge to do all that work? I also have read that new cam break in is very important. Please let us know how much more power the new cam and displacement feels like. Thanks

Hi everyone, My 4.0 2001 d2 has a slipped liner?/ cracked block etc. I picked up a 2003 4.6 block with pistons and crank looking ok. The problem is the cam is in 3 pieces and the cam bearings are shot (see pics). My questions are can I or a machine shop install and stake new bearings with the...

Looking for an ACE pump.

Okay now Rich Rod is out!! Leaders and legends anticipate the future and have vision, while the rest just try to react to it. Their mistake was that Rich Rod was never a Michigan man. To bad Harbaugh is headed to the NFL maybe he will coach Pryor there next year. ha ha ha

Ohio State will have to wait for next year to get their beat down. U of M will be on the rise now that Rich Rod is history. Watch for Michigan to be restored to its rightful place among college football elites. If I was close to Vegas, I would definitely bet on it!

I did not see any o ring inside the pump?? See if this picture helps: http://i.ebayimg.com/19/!B-TbF4Q!mk~$(KGrHqYOKo4Ey+jCzINcBM8VMeKQLQ~~_12.JPG

Yes, it is standard thread and a real pain to get off. Keep trying I had to work on it for 2 hours!!!

The hose (line) should come with O rings attached. Where was/is it leaking from? A lot people say the pump itself is the first thing to start leaking not the gearbox. But I am not very experienced , so you may want to get a different mechanic and/ or search this forum for more complete info...