Recent content by JohnB

Also the plastic warps on the sunroof casket. You may need to remove it and reseal it. Sometimes the water gets in under there and the tray doesn't catch it.

You could always add a rear drain hose on the back of the tray somehow especially if you park at a back slant. Most sunroofs have front and rear drains. Guess the sun belt of Great Britain never has rain🤣 or they enjoy misery and dripping interiors. I'm betting on misery

I fought this for years ended up being the seals were flipped the wrong way. Not sure who did it or if I did it at along the way.

It's pretty easy to damage the harness on the drivers side if you've ever removed the ac bracket. It can get in between the bracket when tighten the bracket back down and get squished.

Get the most expensive Stat you can get. There are a tons of options. I'm out of the D2 ownership anymore but I in fact did run a 160 and it kept it at a constant 180 with the inline mod. Didn't cause any Fuel map issues. Since rover pissed on these things to make a 50 year old motor run for...

Probably rust in the motors or micro switches.

Even 6 years ago I could not get a timing gear that was made correct from aftermarket. Was lucky I could get one from Land Rover. From what I've read you can't do that anymore. Don't even get me started about my all makes cam shaft and lifter nightmare that almost took out my engine. Luckily...

Been there before. You will ever find the odd one separate from anyone in the aftermarket.

Not that I have a D2 any longer but mine did this year's ago. My inside fuse panel was the issue.

My Old D2 it was the heat shielding that was the rattle. I finally just ripped it off.

With my old D2 I ran a 160 stat with the inline mod. Also ran a real coolant gauge. It seemed to be consistent 180 with the Chevy light duty clutch and a D1 fan blade. Got 300k on that engine before I stopped giving a shit working on it for all the other D2 related issues. Long story short...

Where did your old head gaskets fail? Have you done a compression test?

Have a mickey mouse rope on my latch. Broke 2 cables and handles on mine so never again.

Around here we just go to a place that rebuilds hydraulic lines. Usually they are around where semi trucks are worked on or someone can point you to that shop. You will need to bring the entire line from the trans to the cooler. Bet it won't cost more then $25 and done while you wait.

Sounds like all the modules have been swapped and everything is not synced. Maybe try to swap speedo bcm and ecu from the same parts truck although sure you need some fancy computer to write the vin. Just a guess but that's what I would try.