Then, try not to seat it all the way in so the lip rides on the clear part of the runner.
Alternately, look at SKF SpeediSleeves for a quick fix that doesn't involve machining or major surgery.
I don't know the Foxwell, but the Hawkeye needs the original Barcoded tag with the 12 digit code that came with the key to program it, the Nanocom uses the 6 digit alphanumerical code on the back of the chip inside the fob.
I had the 3 Amigos in permanent residence when I bought my Disco and they went away when I replaced the battery and made up a new earth lead from battery to the chassis.
I also fitted new terminal clamps at the same time, so earthing was a definite factor on my car.
I find this rather nice, and am considering building a similar set up for my D2 to replace my increasingly structurally unsound one.
The tinworm is having fun with mine...
There are variations for different vehicles, with different bellhousings and input shaft lengths, and there are internal differences between the vehicle applications.
Having said that, a Disco box will be physically the same as another Disco box, but a P38 box won't fit a Disco or vice versa...
I can't speak for the TA heads, but this guy can speak for the Wildcat heads... just not very politely...
https://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=15222
Bolt on, by my understanding. Maybe with minor work, but doable.
http://store.yellaterra.com.au/categories/roller-rocker-sets/rover/3500cc-3900cc-v8.html?sort=priceasc
He lengthened the chassis from original, probably to accommodate the full load bed.
This is a returning project that the owner took away from him due to costs and then discovered that he was in fact onto a good thing, so my mate is now having to un-bodge the work done since he had it before...
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