Recent content by LRDONE

If you use a decent volt meter you should be alright. My meter has a 500ma fuse. A .5amp draw will kill a battery over night. So you should be able to see anything that's killing your battery in a day or two without issue.

Use a volt meter and measure milliamps, that's the professional approach. Hook the meter up from the negative post to the negative terminal with the negative terminal still connected. Shut all your doors and lock the truck. Then disconnect the negative cable with your volt meter wired how I...

I personally would ditch the gasket, clean the surfaces really nice and apply a bead of high temp sealant that suits your liking.

And your pump is 100%? No wear on the faces/teeth and the thrust plate is flat? It shouldn't take that long to build pressure from a oil filter only removal.

The longest mine was lit was when the pump needed to prime, after having the pan and pick up tube off.

If the relief valve is closed the oil will only head south to the oil cooler port. If the relief valve is open, the oil will feed right back into the supply.

Take the cover off and look at it. I've had mine a part a few times. If the pressure relief valve is open, the pump will pump oil directly in to the oil port where the pump is pulling oil from. That's your exact description.

It's built into the housing right next to the pump. The relief doesn't intercept any certain line but opens up based on entire system pressure. So you can say it's before or after everything else in the system, it doesn't matter. It's designed to relieve system pressure based on a restriction...

You need to actually test the wiring to and from the ecm and knock sensor. You also need to check the ecm to make sure is not corroded, if it is, that needs to be tested as well. The ecm in your D1 likes to collect water. If all that checks out then you've got a mechanical issue somewhere. A...

The switch opens at 7psi. I've bench tested two of them.

I've done my own alignment on the our rack and it's really easy to do if you know what you're doing. With new hardware it took me maybe 20 minutes. Find someone new.

Rovers North sells the plugs to block off the oil cooler. The D2 cover came with them. You'll need two. Takes a little bit to get these but there's the part number at least. https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/lgy100080_blanking_plug_front_cover_4_0_4_6_v_8

I had the same thing happen to me. The plastic rollers were broken. I bought a metal roller repair kit for it and that solved my problem. It was on eBay for $15 I’ll post a link...

I'm having a hard time confirming the fit. I see 617 in the description. Does that mean any 617 center ball will work? Is this a standardized number I wonder?

Is there a quality center ball replacement out there? Or a part number or is it standardized amongst any double cardan joint? I bought a D2 front shaft for my D1 and I’m replacing the u-joints and I noticed that one of the needle bearings is broken in the center ball. Thanks