Recent content by Wander

Put the charger back on it this morning, thinking the batt was still too low and that was causing the weirdness, hoping I was just over thinking it last night.

Got it open, some weird stuff going on. Lots of fast clicking from under the dash, under the hood and the side markers appear to be shorting. Will not start and head lights not coming on, interior lights get dim almost right away some this looks like something electrical gone wrong. Any of this...

Daughters DII had a low battery, just clicking when I tried to start it. Put the charger on it and charged the batt, went to open the door and got a fast click from the lock area, now its not responding to the fob to open at all. When i did get it open it would not start, thinking it might be...

That's the ultra rare-"remote writing instrument access" option!

$80 for the whole set isn't bad. Did you think that was per door? It's a one time kind of thing.

Will has sets-I just ordered one. He uses a thicker seal than stock to fix that issue. Something quick to temporary fix it? You could add some felt to the trim piece or roll up a towel along the bottom of the door.

While I'm at it (that phrase can get expensive) what about the alternator? If I replace it is there a better choice than stock? I'm running lights and will be adding a winch so should I upsize the amps?

Thanks guys, I was thinking it would be a no brainer and as well as this DI runs I want to keep to keep it that way. It's nice to not HAVE to do something for a change and be able to stay a head of trouble (I probably just jinxed my self there...) I think I'll pull the radiator while I'm at it...

I'm going to do the head gasket job in my 97 DI and I'm wondering if I should also have the heads machined while I'm at it. It has 142K and has been very well maintained. I do not know for sure if the head gaskets have been done or not so I figure better to be safe than sorry. Will it be obvious...

She's telling you to pay attention when backing up and maybe that she's not a fan of techno.

I think the only thing you have left to try is a new MAF, I've seen other thread in which that fixed it and I saw an odd mention of it being related to the thermostat being off and that affecting the computer.

It happened again this morning and I was able to determin that when the stutter occures and I hit the gas the tach does not move nor can I hear the engine rev so that would lead me to think it is in the throttle so it's the TPS that is going, is this correct?

I've got the stuttering under acceleration problem that seems to be fairly common. The concensus is that it is caused by either the VSS or the TPS so I think I'll replace both.

Where are getting the VSS's from and how hard is the replacement? I'm thinking I migth just replace both the VSS and TPS as the TPS looks pretty easy. LOL about the breaking the sound barrier comment!

The first time I noticed it was at highway speeds-about 68mph. Then nothing for about a week or two, next time was under acceleratio an at 55(ish) mph, the most recent was at about 30. The constant seems to be while under acceleration.