Mexico is a thought. I know a guy who buys cars in the SE, ships them to Puerto Rico for reconditioning, and brings them back for sale in S. FL. He says it's cheaper to do all that than pay in the U.S. Kinda wild.
I did the side and top windows on a D1 after a repaint, but had the bodyshop do the rear. I'm considering having a California transplant I bought repainted if prices ever come back from the stratosphere. Maybe I'll tackle the rear window this time.
My machine shop port matches and polishes the heads with a valve job. I strongly suggest it if yours is trust worthy and reasonably priced. It makes a seat of the pants difference. The exhaust ports are way too small on stock heads.
Yeah, that's starting to be a bigger problem. I've seen grumbles about part availability for the last couple of years. It's funny too because some manufacturers have stepped up to make odds and ends interior pieces, trim pieces, etc. but the mechanical parts are lacking.
This probably isnt your leak, but I have to share an experience I had with a Discovery 1 with a vacuum leak and hard brakes. The previous owner's mechanic replaced a master cylinder.
I pulled the MC to replace the booster and found that the "mechanic" did not reinstall the rubber o-ring...
I was surprised to see only one other LR at the show, and none in the Concours. It was a great show through, lots of eye-wateringly expensive stuff.
Took the opportunity for a little beach run.
Machine shops by me fall into 3 categories:
1) reasonably priced good work, but slow and back logged
2) a little over priced, won't do real custom work, but they finish in a reasonable time
3) high priced race engines only
I use my shop in category 1 when I can wait. I found my category 1 shop...
If you go with a smaller pulley I'd consider upgrading the cooler pump. I don't have experience with the 3.0, but the 4.2 SC gets hot without an upgraded pump.
It could be a TPI, it does have a long runner intake.
The coil packs on the rear of the heads, MAF sensor, and idle air control valve are in pic 188/198. Definitely not AC Delco stuff.
I assumed LT1/4 because it'd be easier to key a cam position sensor from. If it's a TPI, they could've put a...
https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/2000-range-rover-p38-overfinch-630r
I was always curious how Overfinch made the Chevy V8 work in the P38.
Looking through the mechanical pictures on this auction, it looks like the Bosch idle air control unit, mass airflow meter, and coil packs are running...
If you want a good, used engine contact Will Tillery:
https://discoweb.org/index.php?threads/more-stock-daily-tons-of-inventory.101943/
Reman, there are several choices but you're spending $5000 minimum. You can rebuild one for half that. For around $3000 you can build a top-hat lined long...
It was in fact a new fob, even has the lock icon on the key button.
I just tried my old fob for giggles after the new one and it worked. It's like their programmer woke the security module up. Not going to complain haha.
I ended up going this route. Even with the Hawkeye dongle, I couldn't find a good used key on eBay.
Funny thing, my old remote started working after using their plug-in programmer. Ah well, now I have two remotes.
If you ruin the outside of that truck with raptor liner after all that work please don't post a picture of it haha.
In all seriousness, this is a neat idea. I'd go the LS route but I'm all for ingenuity.
(Please don't repaint it, or at least not with a trailer park bedliner job)
As a 90s kid I really like the 80s/90s Radwood car show. This year it's coming to my backyard as part of the Amelia Island Concours d' Elegance show.
80s/90s Land Rovers are a great fit for Radwood since that was LR's heyday. Hagery accepted my RRC below in the stock/"royalty" portion of the...
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