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The 'resistor" is actually a transistor module. Check the voltages coming out of the known good ATC on the green wire on pin C0793-1 with the transistor module removed. If it is ok, the problem is the transistor module. If it's still bad, it is likely a wiring problem between the ATC and the...

Fan clearance may be part of the equation.

That code is for the fuel tank pressure sensor. All 3 wires for it go through C0378/C0392 as well, pins 5, 6, 7 supposedly.... You'll have to figure out which wires make it back to that connector from the fuel tank pressure sensor and make sure they get back to the ECU.

It's probably a positive pressure vs vacuum EVAP system issue. You should be able to intercept both wires at the body harness connector C0378/C0392, pins 7 and 5, and not have to run back to the ECU or fuse box. On the new trucks (positive pressure EVAP) they go to the leak detection pump next...

Does your battery ground cable go from the battery to the the body next to the battery and then continue to the alternator bracket on the front of the engine?

Is it just me or does it look like the chain isn't sitting down far enough on (what's left of) the teeth of the cam gear?

What can I say? They fit my D2 even though it says early 70's/late 80's and early 90's Range Rover. Hedman may have just categorized them wrong.

No need to modify any parts. Get a D2 transfer case front output flange and bolt it onto your D1 transfer case. You should probably replace the seal at the same time. Then you can bolt in a D2 driveshaft. I have a Tom Wood's front driveshaft and would recommend it over a stock or rebuilt stock...

K137/C2006 in this photo is the starter relay. Here is the pinout for it: Pin 85 gets power when the ignition switch is in the start position. Pin 86 is has to go to ground for it to engage. On the automatic trucks, it combines with a few other sensors/modules and goes through the...

The u-joints are the same but the flange is different - it has to support the centering ball for the double cardan joint. If you want to use the stock D2 driveshaft, you'll have to swap a D2 transfer case output flange onto your transfer case.

Is this for a D1 or a D2?

Is it coming from the valley? Are you sure it isn't the heater hoses?

The lines are held in place with a couple of brackets bolted to the frame. You may be able to unbolt the brackets from the front of the frame cross member under the condenser. Here's the best pic I have of one of them.

Are they using a higher phase count to keep voltage ripple in check with the high output currents from the alternators? With nothing to smooth it out except for the battery? I bet that could reek havoc on some ECUs.

I would think if you could get a higher magnetic flux out of the rotor along with fewer/heavier windings in the stator you would be able to get more amps/power out of the alternator at a fixed speed. The trick there, of course, would be to get more flux out of the rotor. If there is room to add...

Clean it again and have someone turn the steering wheel to lock for a few seconds while you look at the hoses. You'll see pretty quick exactly where the problem is.

Both of those cables should be way less than 1 ohm. 40 ohms is a LOT of resistance and would explain the battery not charging. Measure the voltage drop from the alternator output to the fuse box terminal, fuse box terminal to battery positive, and alternator case to battery negative with the...

These fit on my D2 with minimal bending. I would suggest cutting off the ball socket joint they have and weld in a v-band. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-39800

Those numbers are the cross sectional area of the wire in square mm.

No, D2s don't monitor the headlights for faults.