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Terrafirma Heavy Duty Track Rod Terrafirma Cranked Rear Trailing Arms with soft poly bushings prices and shipping to 23707

If the rover shakes when he drives it then you need to find the problem and fix it. the damper wont fix that. and if the rover is fixed properly the damper isn't really needed. look up death wobble and start tracking down the real issues.

Love the new site design, and it loads much faster at work now :-)

Looks great with the 3" lift. What size tires do you have on it?

Easy way to figure the actual weight would be to put the truck on a scale and get a real weight for the loaded truck. Also do you keep it loaded down with gear all the time? because with your prior stated 3-6 month sag happening on two different sets of springs, I wonder if your not just over...

I don't know much about the Terrafirma adjustable shocks. I know some of the Higher end Nitro Charged (like OME) are supposed to actually pick the truck up reducing the load on the spring, verses just being a damper like a standard shock. Perhaps someone running them can chime in on that. If...

What kind of shocks are you running? I would think a high quality nitro charged shock could help lift a bit and take some load off the springs. Some even have spring assist.

At 1-1/4 they are normally considered sheathing nails, but if they had the plastic washer around the head they are nails used for house wrap (like the Tyvek). Either way they will kill most normal tires of that size.

Jump seats don't have to come out, fold them out until you can get behind them kinda... then you just have to be able to move your arms in unnatural ways.

There is a write up on Dweb (I think) somewhere about how to do this. I recall reading it not to long ago. If your brakes all work properly (aside from not liking to bleed the ABS Block) you shouldn't have a problem with removing the ABS Block and either installing new lines to the proportioning...

remember that while the u-joint is off, don't let the steering wheel spin. you will destroy the cassette if it does move a lot.

when I replaced my steering box a few months ago I had to remove both bolts from the lower u-joint and pry it open top and bottom (at slit where the bolts go) to get it to slide up enough to get it free from the steering box. also would help if you clean the shaft your trying to slide it up.

I chased this same problem for what felt like forever. Changed panhard bushing many times, tie rod ends, radius arm bushings, and finally found a worn bearing race in the upper pin for the swivel housing. That was the end of the problem. But Damn was is frustrating to find. Good luck in fixing...

You will have to find a locksmith that deals with Automotive keys I just had keys cut for my Land Rover using the code but I had to find someone who could do it like that. Try asking a reputable local car dealership who they use for making new keys.

From an engineering stand point the petroleum jelly has a high viscosity and the oil pump will move it and that will create suction and pull the oil from the sump. But there are better things to use with the newer products that are available today. My dad in his early days of building motors...

"thats what assembly lube is for" I agree.

pdogg "This is the second time I've heard of people putting petroleum jelly in the oil pump during a rebuild.. I cannot understand this..." ezzzzzzz Said: "The upper engine was primed with oil but I didn't open the oil pump and pack with petroleum jelly." He didn't pack the oil pump with...

Some vehicles work that way. you un hook the battery and then you get to teach the vehicle how to run again. A Discovery ECU is not that way. It will store the information until it is manually cleared on purpose. Any luck on getting the rover running?

Looks really clean. As long as in the bottom cup is clean I would say the fuel being dirty isn't your problem. I have had a few pumps just die or work intermittently and then die. I hope you get it running soon.