Mate looks good. Why didn't you like inline top hose stat? There is a bypass in the sense that the coolant will pump around the heater matrix and I put a small 3mm hole in addition to the stock bleed hole of about the same size. In 41 degree C days it hasn't broken 90 degrees C and most of the...
I had exactly the same issue. I think the printed circuit board die (dual row). I used a second hand one and all good. Trouble is what do we do when there are no second hand ones. It's a deal breaker. Perhaps get electronic tech to find the fracture and repair.
Cheers
Option B done a few years ago. Nil problems until now....
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Mate check also radiator tank on that side to see if it's leaking. Check also coolant return hose between expansion tank and top of radiator side tank. You may have already replaced (with something like 5/16th Dayco heater hose).
Cheers
Yep another helpful post mate. The OP must be getting a lot out of this. You drop a little gem or advice (or a turd depending on how you look at it) and move on.
To the OP do your own research but if you jump on Aulro there is a lot of good advice and good success with studs versus stretch...
Could be fuel pump so test pressure at the valve at back of intake manifold (driver's side for you...passenger side for me). Also I have had the same problem where I first replaced CPS and same as you didnt work. I had no start at all however. I replaced fuel pump - no change. I had to...
Oh...dont forget to be very careful with inserting steel bolts into alloy threads...and if needs be use a tap or better still thread chaser to clean out threads for head studs/bolts. Then use degreaser and blow out and then finish the hole cleaning with CRC brake cleaner and blow out so no...
Mate I just rebuilt the top end of my 4.0 D2 4.6. Attention to detail to ensure mating head and block surfaces are even and clean. I had heads crack detected. All ok. I had new valve stem seals installed. Mine was a very low k motor so no other head work required. I got a set of ARP studs...
I am having exactly the same problem. Changed to a known good CPS...no difference. Fuses all good etc. I might try changing the underbonnet fuse box complete and see if that cures it but it is very strange...first thing i will check wiring from CPS. Did any of you guys cure your vehicles non...
Old thread I know. Musky do you unpick the diff housing-axle welds and re-position the diff to have it in a straight line with the exit of the double cardin? I lifted my D2 2 inches and then did castor correction - lift caused vibration that a shaft re-co (mins centre ball replacement...
I run a standard thermostat on my d1 and d2 in Australia...as long as the cooling system is serviced never a problem even towing a 2 tonn boat up steep hills in well over 40 centigrade summer days. I monitor with scangauge II.
Cheers
....maybe instead of just saying you dont have to pull the dash to replace the matrix you should tell us how its done...or do you like the idea that i or someone else would follow up on your post and ask you.
I was thinking more in terms of front joint failure and the front dropping onto the road at highway speed and jamming into the road...I have seen the results of rear shafts doing that in Australia and it isnt pretty for the vehicle. As said above though keeping the shaft in good nick means...
It might be handy to stop the front prop shaft hitting the road if one of the CV's comes apart...
I put spacers on mine when I lifted the suspension. Using a grub screw for the centre spline instead of grease nipple helps with clearance.
Cheers
Look to bleed fully, but if that doesnt work with full coolant, could well be blocked heater matrix. Happened to me last year and it would not clean from the firewall side, so had to have dash pulled to get to matrix and have it replaced...then nice heat again. Thats an all day job.
Cheers
I am about to put a GEMS 46D motor into my Disco 2 manual shift. Its from a 97 RR and 9.35:1 compression. Lovingly looked after and done a genuine 12,000 miles...
I know i need to replace cam sprocket and muck around a little to get my crank angle sensor to mount on it and change to my knock...
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