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Anyone here ever try a lifter install without removing the heads? Anyhow, my son suggested using Seafoam in both the tank and intake because the knocking reminded him of a bad lifter. I did install new ones but perhaps one was somehow bad and didn't take to its oil pre-soaking or perhaps some...

Compression?

Our D1 needing rebuilding due to her knocking and jerking ride. After her rebuild her knocking and jerking continued. And I don't know why. The rebuild included the following new items: new timing chain & gears gear drive new dizzy lifters con rod bearings new main bearings rings complete...

I removed both manifolds to install new exhaust gaskets at the head and to the pipes in hope that my problem was due to leakage - It isn't. Took 15 mins at idle for the knocking returned. Could the cats cause the knocking? Temp wise they read very close to our other Rover and even if they...

Yes the knocking seems to diminish with rpm. I do own a stethoscope yet like you've pointed out, sound travels in mysterious ways. Sounds as if a con rod bearing crapped out but that isn't the case. If the fly wheel is cracked as you have suggested, then I should be able to see that by...

D1 95. Don't think it's a sleeve liner as it doesn't knock till warm.

She's knocking and it sounds as if it is coming from the Sump area. I rebuilt her with: New rings New timing chain and gears Main and rod bearings New flowmaster and back exhaust All her lifters looked good. Anyone any idea why she might be knocking? Happens after she warms up only. If oil...

Good question - STD bearings were used as STD were previously installed. No plastigage measuring was done - Just a feeler gauge in between rods.

Having trouble torquing down the connecting rods after installing rod bearings. After torquing down pistons 1 & 2, I'm finding the crank impossible to spin, which is required to torque the other rods down. I've broken 2 breaker bars attempting its rotation. Once both con rod pistons are...

My grandson came by and helped. I turned the crank as he leveraged a screw driver on the back side of the top bearings. 15 minutes and the 1st 4 mains came right out. The 5th has remained as the cap has not been removed. Its a hard one to remove perhaps because of its side plastic pieces...

Having trouble removing the top main bearings. Crank in place and caps have been removed. Spinning the crank doesn't move them at all. I've been able to push with a stiff plastic the bearing bout a 1/4" but no further. Has anyone tried heating theirs? Or have a suggestion? Thanks.

It grabs immediately. Almost sounds and feels like something hasn't been bolted down on the front passenger side. Engine mounts and sway bar have been correctly bolted down. Drive lines look good. Thanks.

It passed smog. Miss, pump & fuel filter factor into passing smog. No codes at all.

In summary, D1 is lunging in all gears almost like it is missing but it's not....Passing smog proves this. All running gear has been inspected and is in working condition. Motor mounts are intact. Is anyone knowledgeable regarding a slave or master cylinder going bad? Thanks.

The shakes happens only when accelerating in gear. Drive lines, joints, tires are all good. Checked the engine mounts and they are sound. My thought is that some how it could be clutch related. I could replace the slave cylinder and see what happens. Guessing is a bitch.

Nice Twain quote. Parked no shakes at any rpm. Yep, shaking does appear if accelerating and then gone while coasting out of gear. Will check if shaking occurs with clutch in. Rover owner for 4 decades, so I've rebuilt a few and never seen one like this.......... Idunno :banghead:.

Hello. Engine completely rebuilt and runs well except when on the road. She is shaking like she's missing, but she isn't missing. I think that it's her clutch. Suspect that I may have nickered the clutch somehow and my knowledge surrounding clutches is at best shaky as well. Anyone familiar...

As some may have read, the head came back from the shop with its valve springs upside down. After repairing and installing she continues to "miss." Compression values are: 145, 90, 115, 120, 140, 130, 130, & 125. Wet testing the 90 value jumped to 110. Gonna install new rings at the 90, 115...

Got the head back from the machine shop and suspect they may have got it wrong. The valve springs have been installed nonuniform. Some have the tight end of the spring up and others down - THAT CANT BE RIGHT? I'm in my 60's but seem to recall that the tight part of the valve spring should...

A 1990 RR has joined our LWB & D1 family. Having trouble removing its fuel pump as it is not the same design as the LWB or D1. Should the pump come out easily? Ours gets stuck once it gets pulled up 3". Don't wanna break something off and have it fall deep into the tank. Appreciate any help...