04 CDL install questions

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
I'm finally getting around to doing this. I've had the linkage for a while now.

When I ordered the linkage from EE, I called Tillery up and got a replacement transmission tunnel plate, the black one, that the shifter and the CDL lever attach to. I ordered this, as I had previously installed the DI linkage, and for that I had to cut too much off to get the 04 to mount up properly.

I just made the cut, and cleaned the new plate up, making sure all the rivets were completely out of it. In the process, I managed to bugger the foam gasket that goes around the edge and mates with the bodywork. I cleaned what was left of the foam gasket off entirely, using Googone, and when I wash it with spirits, I'll sand it down a bit and prime and paint the whole thing. I bought a can each of the Rustoleum industrial flat gray primer and flat black topcoat for this purpose.

I also picked up a roll of the rubberized gasket material with cork in it, of approximately the same thickness as the crushed foam gasket, perhaps a bit thicker. I'll cut a matching gasket out of this stuff and apply it to the the new plate with high temp black silicone tomorrow. Do you guys think I should silicone the other side as well when I install it? I've been considering it.

So, the plate should be pretty much good, with a new gasket, new paint, and a new hole, which looks far better than the one I did before. Here is a tip, use a jigsaw. Last time I did this, all I had was a Dremel and a cutoff wheel, and that SUCKED. The Jigsaw made short work of the job, and I used the Dremel to clean it up.

Unfortunately, having installed the DI linkage before, I naturally managed to go ahead and lose the hardware to attach the shifter housing to the tunnel plate. No worries, though, as believe it or not, I found the proper hardware at Lowes, as well as the blue Loctite I wanted to use when installing it.

Sadly, however, I do not know if I have the hardware that attaches the cable bracket to the transfer case. To clarify, I speak of the actual CDL engage/disengage cable. On the business end, the end opposite the actual shifter, there is a bracket that the cable passes through. This bracket is meant to attach to the transfer case adjacent to the CDL nipple. There are apparently two bolts that accomplish this, and let's assume that I do not have them. Does anyone know what bolts I need to purchase for this bracket? I'm sure one of you buggers got it all apart and realized at that point you needed them. I don't want that to happen to me again.

And one more question, this is the stupid one. Before I go and get into this, I'd like to know how the shifter housing for the 04 linkage should be oriented upon install. To make the question and answer clear, I'll specify some things.

On the shifter housing, there is a mounting horn with two cable passthroughs drilled into it. This horn extends out significantly from the housing itself, and is a good indicator of direction. In which direction should this horn face upon install? Answer American drivers side, American passenger side, hood or tail lamps. This will make things clear for everyone.:D

I want to make damn sure when I get into this irritating job again that it goes as smoothly as possible. I don't have much dexterity, and it's tight in there, and that will be actively irritating me the whole time. And I just can't remember how the factory horn was oriented anymore. I can't even find a picture of it anywhere. I like to know things up front, to eliminate guesswork. I'd like to spare my guesswork neurons for when I really need them.

For anyone considering this job, it isn't that it's particularly skill oriented or requiring many steps, it's just tedious. The DI linkage was pretty darned irritating, but it is a job anyone with patience can do. I expect this one to be a bit easier, but I haven't done it before, and I know how cables can get. I will tell you, however, that the difference is night and day, and it is worth all the trouble in the world to have that CDL. I will also say that I was happy to spend the money on the 04 linkage after living with the DI linkage, so do what you can afford, and don't say I didn't warn you.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

flyfisher11

Well-known member
May 25, 2005
8,676
2
61
Wolf Laurel NC
kennith said:
I'm finally getting around to doing this. I've had the linkage for a while now.

When I ordered the linkage from EE, I called Tillery up and got a replacement transmission tunnel plate, the black one, that the shifter and the CDL lever attach to. I ordered this, as I had previously installed the DI linkage, and for that I had to cut too much off to get the 04 to mount up properly.

I just made the cut, and cleaned the new plate up, making sure all the rivets were completely out of it. In the process, I managed to bugger the foam gasket that goes around the edge and mates with the bodywork. I cleaned what was left of the foam gasket off entirely, using Googone, and when I wash it with spirits, I'll sand it down a bit and prime and paint the whole thing. I bought a can each of the Rustoleum industrial flat gray primer and flat black topcoat for this purpose.

I also picked up a roll of the rubberized gasket material with cork in it, of approximately the same thickness as the crushed foam gasket, perhaps a bit thicker. I'll cut a matching gasket out of this stuff and apply it to the the new plate with high temp black silicone tomorrow. Do you guys think I should silicone the other side as well when I install it? I've been considering it.

So, the plate should be pretty much good, with a new gasket, new paint, and a new hole, which looks far better than the one I did before. Here is a tip, use a jigsaw. Last time I did this, all I had was a Dremel and a cutoff wheel, and that SUCKED. The Jigsaw made short work of the job, and I used the Dremel to clean it up.

Unfortunately, having installed the DI linkage before, I naturally managed to go ahead and lose the hardware to attach the shifter housing to the tunnel plate. No worries, though, as believe it or not, I found the proper hardware at Lowes, as well as the blue Loctite I wanted to use when installing it.

Sadly, however, I do not know if I have the hardware that attaches the cable bracket to the transfer case. To clarify, I speak of the actual CDL engage/disengage cable. On the business end, the end opposite the actual shifter, there is a bracket that the cable passes through. This bracket is meant to attach to the transfer case adjacent to the CDL nipple. There are apparently two bolts that accomplish this, and let's assume that I do not have them. Does anyone know what bolts I need to purchase for this bracket? I'm sure one of you buggers got it all apart and realized at that point you needed them. I don't want that to happen to me again.

And one more question, this is the stupid one. Before I go and get into this, I'd like to know how the shifter housing for the 04 linkage should be oriented upon install. To make the question and answer clear, I'll specify some things.

On the shifter housing, there is a mounting horn with two cable passthroughs drilled into it. This horn extends out significantly from the housing itself, and is a good indicator of direction. In which direction should this horn face upon install? Answer American drivers side, American passenger side, hood or tail lamps. This will make things clear for everyone.:D

I want to make damn sure when I get into this irritating job again that it goes as smoothly as possible. I don't have much dexterity, and it's tight in there, and that will be actively irritating me the whole time. And I just can't remember how the factory horn was oriented anymore. I can't even find a picture of it anywhere. I like to know things up front, to eliminate guesswork. I'd like to spare my guesswork neurons for when I really need them.

For anyone considering this job, it isn't that it's particularly skill oriented or requiring many steps, it's just tedious. The DI linkage was pretty darned irritating, but it is a job anyone with patience can do. I expect this one to be a bit easier, but I haven't done it before, and I know how cables can get. I will tell you, however, that the difference is night and day, and it is worth all the trouble in the world to have that CDL. I will also say that I was happy to spend the money on the 04 linkage after living with the DI linkage, so do what you can afford, and don't say I didn't warn you.

Cheers,

Kennith

It's been several years since I did this but to the best of my memory:

Silicone overkill but if it gives you peace of mind then do it.

The bolts for the bracket as I recall are already on you t-case. You just have to remove them put down the bracket and reinstall the bolts.

Not sure what you are talking about with the horns. I can tell you that the shifter in unlocked H or L leans significantly towards the passenger's side.

If you haven't already, you may want to remove the High/Low neutral locking solenoid while you have the tunnel open.

Good luck,

Mike
 

Wasatch Disco

Well-known member
May 15, 2007
97
0
Wasatch Front
x2 on the Silicone, but a little PM can't hurt.

post a couple of pics of your progress. It's been about 6 months since I finished this. It may help jog my memory.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
On the 04 CDL lever housing, that being the aluminum casting that the lever is mounted in, and which attaches via four bolts to the black tunnel plate, there is an extension. This extension has two large holes machined into it, for the cables to lock into before they attach to the shifter linkage.

This extension is the horn I refer to. It is where the brunt of the aluminum in the casting is located. It could be looked upon as the main feature of the casting, and is located nearer to the range selection attachment arm than to the CDL attachment arm. It extends slightly downward from the mounting area and lever of the assembly, and there is a large cylindrical depression in this area of the casting, being it's major feature, as well as the two machined holes, which are perpendicular to each other.

If I am holding the entire assembly by this extension while sitting facing the hood in the drivers seat, the range selection cable attachment arm is on the American drivers side, while the arm for the CDL lever is on the American passenger side.

My assumption is that this extension faces toward the rear, thus placing the CDL cable attachment arm on the same side of the assembly as the actual CDL nipple on the transfer case. Being cable operated, it will probably go both ways, but one way will cause premature cable failure or binding, and another way will be the right way. I just want to get it right. Sometimes you just can't tell with cables.

I can't properly tell by how it's oriented upon locking or unlocking, because it can go either way as far as that goes, with cables.

I can't seem to remember what removing that solenoid will gain me. I don't even remember if I've removed it. But then, my memory is slightly messed up, and things just disappear. I don't seem to recall ever bothering to shift range on the fly, if that's what it allows. But hell, I might have attempted it yesterday, for all I know. :rofl:

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
The purple arrows highlight the extension. In what direction should it point? This will solve all my problems related to cable routing.

Cheers,

Kennith
 
Last edited:

flyfisher11

Well-known member
May 25, 2005
8,676
2
61
Wolf Laurel NC
kennith said:
.....
I can't seem to remember what removing that solenoid will gain me. I don't even remember if I've removed it. But then, my memory is slightly messed up, and things just disappear. I don't seem to recall ever bothering to shift range on the fly, if that's what it allows. But hell, I might have attempted it yesterday, for all I know. :rofl:

Cheers,

Kennith

The solenoid I'm referring to is the neutral lock out solenoid. I'm sure you've read in the past about folks getting stuck in low or high. This solenoid forces you to be in neutral before you shift to high or low. By removing it you'll never get stuck, but you must be aware and not shift at higher than 5mph. Without the solenoid you can theoretically shift at any speed in any gear. Remove it but continue the old habit of slowing to nearly a stop and putting the truck in neutral before shifting and all will be good.

Cheers,

Mike
 

flyfisher11

Well-known member
May 25, 2005
8,676
2
61
Wolf Laurel NC
kennith said:
The purple arrows highlight the extension. In what direction should it point? This will solve all my problems related to cable routing.

Cheers,

Kennith

I'm having a hard time remembering but if you remember the orientation of the one you pull out paying close attention to he high low shift cable then you will know exactly how this one goes in, because the high low cable is the same if that makes since. There is really only one way for this thing to go. I wish I could be more of help but like I said I only did mine and that was a few years ago.

Cheers,

Mike
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
flyfisher11 said:
I'm having a hard time remembering but if you remember the orientation of the one you pull out paying close attention to he high low shift cable then you will know exactly how this one goes in, because the high low cable is the same if that makes since. There is really only one way for this thing to go. I wish I could be more of help but like I said I only did mine and that was a few years ago.

Cheers,

Mike

The darned problem is, I've got a DI lever in there now, and I'm pretty sure it uses a lever for that. Bugger, I don't know. Maybe someone will remember, because I sure can't. It was several years ago, and I couldn't tell you what I had for lunch today.

On the solenoid, I think I recall something about that now. I'll look into it. I'll think about this stuff and post back if I have something else when I get back from town. Thanks, by the way.:)

Cheers,

Kennith
 

Disco2Guy

Well-known member
Oct 27, 2007
242
0
Hey, thats my kitchen floor behind that CDL lever! As far as I remember the lever shown in the picture is the way it's installed. It's just like you're looking at the lever while driving.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
BackInA88 said:
Do the DI and DII shift levers bend the same?
If so you should be able to tell from that how the 04 lever goes in.

The DI lever is a mechanical linkage, so it can only be installed one way.

The DII lever can only be installed right one way. Being a cable linkage, I could feasibly install it backwards and reduce the life of the unit. Nobody wants to go through this any more times than necessary. It's a pain in the ass.

I may get it in there and determine that it is painfully obvious which way it has to go. I may not. Knowing ahead of time prevents vehicular downtime while I'm scratching my head wondering what to do. It also prevents me from having to try it twice to determine what works best.

If I was replacing a DII linkage, I would not have this question, as I could simply put the new one in in the same way I took the old one out, as they are both shaped the same. The problem is, it has been so long since I did it, I can't remember how it was when I took it out.

I can't get in there to look and see if it is obvious until I drill out the rivets. And I'm not drilling out the rivets until I know which way the darned thing faces.

Someone here is bound to remember precisely.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Disco2Guy said:
Hey, thats my kitchen floor behind that CDL lever! As far as I remember the lever shown in the picture is the way it's installed. It's just like you're looking at the lever while driving.

Yeah, I dug that off of google images, looking for a way to show what I meant. Thanks for making it available. It saved me from having to take a picture myself.:D

I think you are right about orientation, but I'll wait a bit to see if someone just pops up and knows. I am fairly certain that it has to go this way, to keep the range cable from binding, but you can just about get away with murder where cables are concerned, and a little more waiting won't hurt.

I've just painted the plate, and I'll be making the gasket tomorrow, so it's not holding me back just yet. When it does, I'll just tear it all out and see what happens, but I'd be a fool not to try and find someone who knows beyond reasonable doubt.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

BackInA88

Well-known member
Dec 6, 2007
392
1
Troy, Michigan
kennith said:
The DI lever is a mechanical linkage, so it can only be installed one way.

I'm not talking about the linkage.
Look at the shifter arm that the shifter knob screws onto.
I would think the DI & DII are the same since they have to clear the console.
But to double check......
I just lifter the boot on my shifter and the first bend below the shift knob goes to the front of the truck.


Steve
 

Wasatch Disco

Well-known member
May 15, 2007
97
0
Wasatch Front
When the CDL is disengaged, the knob end of the handle should point towards the passanger side of the vehicle. See which way the horn needs to point to make that happen. Looking at the picture, I believe if you were to push the lever laterally it would move to the right. Indicating that the horn is in the correct position.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Well, I'll just work with this information, then. I have a picture that shows the straight edge of the bracket that attaches to the transfer case facing the transmission. This mandates that the cable operate in a certain way. What I will do it hook it up and then orient the shifter housing so that when I have the CDL locked the lever leans left.

Thanks for the replies, and I'll see how it goes. I may have to replace the range cable, but we will see. It's been tethered to the transmission for a while, in case I needed it. Hopefully, it is still serviceable.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

NVRover

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
1,366
0
52
Broken Arrow, OK
flyfisher11 said:
The solenoid I'm referring to is the neutral lock out solenoid. I'm sure you've read in the past about folks getting stuck in low or high. This solenoid forces you to be in neutral before you shift to high or low. By removing it you'll never get stuck, but you must be aware and not shift at higher than 5mph. Without the solenoid you can theoretically shift at any speed in any gear. Remove it but continue the old habit of slowing to nearly a stop and putting the truck in neutral before shifting and all will be good.

Cheers,

Mike

Ditto, when I had my 04 linkage installed the solenoid failed shortly after and I could not lock the center diff. Take it out while you are in there, or at least replace it for pm purposes.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
I'll remove it, then, if I haven't already done so. Honestly, I can't remember, and I'd rather just look for the bastard than try and test it out, because my current linkage won't let me out of low, anyway. It's not the solenoid, as I reached in there and manually adjusted it a month or so ago.

I expect I can just unplug this thing and remove it no worries? I haven't looked in a while. I'll check the workshop manual. I'd hate to get in there and determine I need to blank it off with a plate and gasket, only to find I'll have to drive the darned thing without the tunnel cover in. It gets hot as hell like that. That's really the purpose of this thread.

I'm no stranger to this area of the vehicle, but the way my brain works, I won't remember it until I see it. I do remember fondly, however, driving around looking for hardware without that cover in, and I'm not doing that again if I can help it.

I just want to make sure I have my brain right before I drill out those rivets. Once I do that, it's all downhill fast if I don't have a good plan ahead of time. I'll bet I've had this stuff out 5 times so far, because of the finicky linkage I bought last time. And I've been driving it for 6 months now with the console out, just so I can get to things if they go awry. I haven't had the time until now to replace the thing.

You just have to see inside my head to understand the way it works. Exceptionally logical, creative, and all sorts of good things, but there are issues as well. I can't remember what I've done half the time, and by that, I don't mean I have a hard time remembering, I mean it's flat out gone. Also, I am ridiculously dyslexic, and I'll put things together backwards every time given half a chance, and believe completely that everything is right. Even structures and machines I have designed perfectly on paper, I'll build backwards. Add to that the fact that I have ZERO sense of time, and you come up with someone who could win 10 grand just taping himself brushing his teeth.

So, I've learned to label the piss out of everything, lay it all out in order of assembly on a table, and make sure I know what to expect, even if I have done the job 20 times before. My memory just cannot be trusted. I can never tell if I've made a point to remember something right, or just got it backwards. Bugger.

Either way, I'm going to use the coin operated vacuum to clean the console up a bit, and then I'm on it.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Looks like I'm going to have to order the range selection cable from Cape Fear.

I pulled the plate out, and I've managed to not have any of the clips for it, and one part of the shroud may be abraded. The cable seems to slide well, though. I might be able to find that hardware at a store, or Tillery may have it, but honestly, since the CDL cable is nice and new, I think I'll order a replacement.

One thing I've always wondered, is how all that crap ends up under the console. I don't recall spilling any drink. I always use drinks with caps in the car for that very reason. So, what is that damned ooze I've been picking out of the transmission shifter frame corrugations? :ack:

Oh, well. At least the stuff is spotless now. A tip:

Armorall Cleaning Wipes kick ass. I've never come across anything else that will take under console ooze off this fast. There are any number of products out there that clean reasonably well, but this stuff is tops. I don't use Armorall shine, but the cleaning wipes are in a class of their own for cutting through grime, and trust me, I've used just about everything.

Another thing these are good for is flipping used cars. Every now and again, I buy one of those cars that looks terrible, just terrible. The sort with black buildup on the steering wheel, dingy carpets, and the works, but is mechanically decent enough. I buy it to sell. Two bottles of these cleaning wipes, and every plastic surface in the car is clean, with very little effort. Then I go back with the vacuum out shampoo (the cheap crap with the brush on the can) on the seats and carpet, and the interior always ends up looking damn presentable. Go over the whole body with Scratch-X or Color-RX, depending on condition, hit her with matte tire conditioner and invisible glass, and you have turned 300 bucks into 1000.

And another tip for you, on smells. Used cars like this smell, they just do. They are nasty and they smell. Most of the time, the cleaning wipes will kill almost any smell, but if they don't, I know what does. First, park it in the sun for a while with the windows up, and then let the breeze blow through it for half a day for so. When you are done, and the sun is setting, grab an extension cord and an ionic breeze office air purifier. Lock that puppy in there on high all night long with the car sealed up, and see how it smells in the morning.:D

If you are VERY smart, you will have seen fit to mist odor killing products through the air system before you try the last step, as nicotine nastiness ends up there first. I have found that Zero Odor works wonders for this.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

flyfisher11

Well-known member
May 25, 2005
8,676
2
61
Wolf Laurel NC
Kennith,

You have two options for the N lockout solenoid (Rave calls it interlock solenoid). You can either remove it completely or remove it, grind off the tip and reinstall it. I would just remove it completely. There is a raised cap with IIRC 4 bolts. Just unplug the solenoid, remove the cap, remove the solenoid, put some gasket sealant back on the cover and reinstall it. No special anything required.

Cheers,

Mike
 

Disco2Guy

Well-known member
Oct 27, 2007
242
0
My lockout solenoid was sealed with silicone and I didn't want to dig it out. So instead I just cut the tip of the solenoid off with a die grinder. After the bracket is installed, just get the cable to loop back to the shifter.