110 clutch issue...

emmodg

Well-known member
Apr 17, 2006
4,273
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So we have a 110 that acts as though the clutch will not disengage fully - when the pedal is depressed the truck bucks pretty hard and you can't shift with clutch the way it is. The pedal still feels pretty good and the system seems to bleed well... Is this a linkage problem or something internal? Busted finger(s), hung fork, throwout bearing busted somehow? I didn't want to remove the tranny and case if it could be a linkage problem. Any ideas? Is this somewhat common with 110's?
 

Doug C

Well-known member
Jul 28, 2006
500
2
Central, Virginia
If you feel the clutch is fully bled there is adjustment in the engine compartment that will give more "throw" when the clutch is depressed.
The linkage is very simple and what may have happened is the "pin" that is pushed in by the clutch slave may have worn through the thin stamped steel throw out bearing clutch fork. This is a common problem-especially in older higher milage trucks. A heavy duty version of the clutch fork is sold and that's basically just a second layer of metal so it takes twice as long to wear through- anyone with a mig could do the same thing. You don't say if its a V8 or tdi etc but this problem is common on the tdi's.
 
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emmodg

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Apr 17, 2006
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It's a 200Tdi. I took the slave out and looked at the fork - it looked fine...
 

Doug C

Well-known member
Jul 28, 2006
500
2
Central, Virginia
I'd suspect the clutch hydrolics. It sounds like you guys know what's up. Yes the clutch adjustment is under the plate with four screws.

If a spring broke on the clutch disc or pressure plate they won't release like you describe.
 

JSQ

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Apr 21, 2004
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San Diego, CA
Adjust the the nuts on the M/C piston which determine the travel of the pedal before you do bother doing anything else.
 

KevinNY

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Dec 28, 2004
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Waxhaw,NC
What you are describing sounds like a textbook MC seal failure(I just had one). You need to go in there anyway so checking the MC piston free float as recommended is worthwhile in case the nuts have moved somehow. First thing to do of course is to check the fluid level and look for grey fluid with floating bits of the failing seal in it.
 

KevinNY

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Dec 28, 2004
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Take the top off the clutch pedal box and with the pedal in the fully up position try to wiggle the piston rod back and forth. There should be a 1/16" free play before depressing the pedal causes the rod to start compressing the MC piston. If it is anywhere close to correct then it is not you issue. If it is too tight you end up leaving residual pressure and your clutch may slip under load, WAY too loose and you won't pull the clutch disk away from the pressure plate. I still think bad seal in the MC. New MC is under 100 bucks, get the OEM one from AB, not one of the really cheap ones.

Is your fluid clean? Any seepage down the pedal?
 
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KevinNY

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Dec 28, 2004
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Waxhaw,NC
If it is leaking out the bellhousing then it is the slave cylinder, easier to swap than the MC. 2 bolts and the line and it's out. I just remove the wing to do the MC.
 
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emmodg

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Apr 17, 2006
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Does the little plastic clip that locates arm from slave to fork HAVE to be on? This one is broken...
 

emmodg

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Apr 17, 2006
4,273
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Put a new clutch slave in today. Bench-bled it, installed it, then bled the system - still no clutch!

The push rod that goes from slave to fork has a broken clip that holds fork to rod so either the rod isn't able to "find" and thus push the fork - and I've read where some people run around without that clip anyways - or there's a problem with pressure plate, bearing, or some other internal problem...

Hmmmmmm......