114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure

[Agent]

The old three amigos have been quiet for the last year or so, however, In the last couple of months I've been them with more and more frequency. They're poping up on a daily basis now so I guess its time to chase them away again.

This is the current fault I'm getting:

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Any advise on where to go from here? I checked the multiplugs and all seemed well. I've got a shuttle valve kit that I've had setting around for quite a while now, but I sure hate to open up the modulator unless its necessary.

 

[KyleT]

new modulator, or do the wire fix that someone on here posted a link to, maybe stolenheron?

if it isnt leaking, then i wouldn't take it apart without trying to fix the wire first.

 

[Agent]

new modulator, or do the wire fix that someone on here posted a link to, maybe stolenheron?

if it isnt leaking, then i wouldn't take it apart without trying to fix the wire first.

Yea, I agree. Just after posting this thread, I found a link to the wire fix. Seems easy enough.

 

[Urban Panzer]

It is easy and it fixes it forever!!!

 

[Agent]

It is easy and it fixes it forever!!!

Cool! Looks like I've got a project for Monday

 

[gmookher]

link pls?

 

[adriatic04]

http://www.landroverclubvi.com/abs-mod.html

 

[siiirhd88]

I did the wire fix a few months ago and have been amigo free since. The ABS and other functions have worked great. Amazingly simple and effective fix.

Bob
'02 Disco II SD
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8

 

[terrormachine]

Try this: perform a brake system bleed, but heat up the fluid in the microwave first before running it through your system. Do it twice and if you have access to a T4 HHT, do the modulator bleed and power bleed procedure. I've done this on a few cars and it has actually fixed a few.

 

[SGaynor]

Try this: perform a brake system bleed, but heat up the fluid in the microwave first before running it through your system. Do it twice and if you have access to a T4 HHT, do the modulator bleed and power bleed procedure. I've done this on a few cars and it has actually fixed a few.

On these, the general culprit is a bad wiring connection (assuming the code isn't a bad sensor). Changing fluid really isn't the issue (although that is good to do).

In my experience (on Chevy's, Volvos and Rovers), it's flush the fluid, then find a local school parking lot to get to speed then slam on the brakes to activate the ABS. That will open the valves, and the (relatively) small passages in the module, which will "flush out" those passages. No issues in 100+K miles. And no need for an ABS computer.

 

[terrormachine]

On these, the general culprit is a bad wiring connection (assuming the code isn't a bad sensor). Changing fluid really isn't the issue (although that is good to do).

In my experience (on Chevy's, Volvos and Rovers), it's flush the fluid, then find a local school parking lot to get to speed then slam on the brakes to activate the ABS. That will open the valves, and the (relatively) small passages in the module, which will "flush out" those passages. No issues in 100+K miles. And no need for an ABS computer.

Just going on some of my 8+ years as a Rover tech. We've seen both issues with the modulator & with old fluid gumming up the valves causing the sticking concern. That's why we can never fully guarantee that fix under cust. pay situations. It's a crap shoot, but a cheaper one than a $2500 modulator or even the shuttle valve modulator repair kit that Rover came up with, which is around $800.

That being said, maybe it's time to start recommending that wiring repair on some of these older DII's. That's if the dealership will allow that. We already lose work over not allowing us to do coil spring conversions on P38's.

 

[KyleT]

Just going on some of my 8+ years as a Rover tech. We've seen both issues with the modulator & with old fluid gumming up the valves causing the sticking concern. That's why we can never fully guarantee that fix under cust. pay situations. It's a crap shoot, but a cheaper one than a $2500 modulator or even the shuttle valve modulator repair kit that Rover came up with, which is around $800.

That being said, maybe it's time to start recommending that wiring repair on some of these older DII's. That's if the dealership will allow that. We already lose work over not allowing us to do coil spring conversions on P38's.

dealer I worked for did tons of coil spring swaps...

the heat trick works for improving the abs responsiveness as well, and the 03-04 updated slabs. both those makes for totally improved abs system also.

every shuttle valve i did, i took apart, then just replaced the whole modulator because of brake fluid leaking from the seals.... all 03-04's though....

isnt the whole modulator going cheaper now though?

 

[terrormachine]

dealer I worked for did tons of coil spring swaps...

the heat trick works for improving the abs responsiveness as well, and the 03-04 updated slabs. both those makes for totally improved abs system also.

every shuttle valve i did, i took apart, then just replaced the whole modulator because of brake fluid leaking from the seals.... all 03-04's though....

isnt the whole modulator going cheaper now though?

I know they did, I worked there too. It's me Chris T. up in Denver. The company lawyers don't let us do it here and business leaves because of it. Either to Flatirons or one of the many independents. That's been one of my peeves since coming up here.

As far as the modulator, can't remember but I thought they were still around $2500. that repair kit does fix a bunch of 'em. I first heard of that flush trick from a dude in Alabama who I was in school with around '05 or so.

 

[ozscott]

Option B done a few years ago. Nil problems until now....

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021:Engine PWM signal bad
114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
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Any ideas? I clear but they keep coming back like the bad characters they are....

Cheers

 

[jymmiejamz]

Option B done a few years ago. Nil problems until now....

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114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
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021:Engine PWM signal bad
114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
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Any ideas? I clear but they keep coming back like the bad characters they are....

Cheers

The switches themselves fail pretty often. You can test them with a multimeter. With both switches open it should read about 3 ohms, one switch pressed should be 2 ohms, and both switches pressed should be 1 ohm. The only other likely thing would be a bad connection.