1992 RRC SWB - deeper into the LR rabbit hole

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discomeans

Well-known member
Apr 13, 2021
156
59
Florida, USA
It's a Saturday morning in July and I'm casually looking on Facebook Marketplace for early 90s Land Rovers. My specialist recommended that if I want to keep something long term, I might want to consider getting a "new" D1 or something else that doesn't have the structural rust issues that my 300Tdi Disco is starting to show. And A/C. I am dying in these FL summers without A/C. Call me a snowflake, I don't care.

I find a RRC that appears to be sitting in a field in FL and send it to him. "What do you think of this?"

He replies back saying, with all due respect, the seller of that is sketchy at best. "Look, if you're serious about doing something now... I have a rust-free 1992 RRC that I've been planning to build out and flip that a client sold to me a while ago. But I don't have the time for my own stuff. Are you interested?"

Duh?

A couple weeks later, and I'm at his shop, looking at this:
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Okay, so it's not 100% rust free, but it's rust free where it counts. The frame is solid, the interior is pretty good but not as clean as my Disco. It's got a 3.9 V8 that's showing its 180k miles, but it's not leaking. I mean, there's oil showing up in the coolant from the oil cooler, but it's not dripping under the car, so that's not technically a leak, right? Right?

Next week, this has happened:
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It's home and I'm swapping out all the stuff I keep in the Disco, which has been detailed for its pending sale. Here we go!

The plan is to do a diesel conversion along with changing from the Borg-Warner transfer case to an LT230. I'll keep it automatic, but we'll put a rebuilt transmission in as part of the work as well.
 
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discomeans

Well-known member
Apr 13, 2021
156
59
Florida, USA
Fast forward to this a couple weeks ago. The rain in FL has been particularly strong and I've finally got the second space in the garage is cleaned out to fit the RRC, so I go to start it up and move it 20 feet. Except it doesn't start. The floor pans are soaked and the lining of the sunroof shade is sagging. So for the first time in my LR ownership I now have to deal with a leaky sunroof. Takes the better part of the day, but I get the ECU/relays dried out enough to start the car and move it inside.

After the Disco is sold, I now have room in the garage to start tearing into the RRC.

This past week I've torn up the foam under the mats, and found this. Passenger side is slightly better, but at least in the rear it's fine.
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Based on some research and recommendations, I got some Ospho and started an attempt at rust treatment after hitting it with a brass brush. I'm not a welder and it doesn't appear serious enough to require cutting and welding just yet. I know I could be wrong here.
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After letting that cure for a couple days, lightly brushing and cleaning with denatured alcohol, and then brushing on two heavy coats of Rustoleum Stops Rust Hammered Black:
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I probably didn't do it perfectly, but I just needed to get something done to stop/slow the rust in the short term.

My plan next is to put down a layer of butyl sound deadener (equivalent to Dynamat Xtreme) and then a layer of closed cell foam with a vinyl layer like this. It won't be as thick as the original foam used, but I think it'll be more dense and most importantly won't hold water. If anyone has other recommendations for sound/heat insulation, let me know. I do want this to be a tourer rather than just 4x4, so good sound deadening is important to me. I'll be hitting the doors after this.

I also need to address the sunroof leak. Considering the state of the paint and that I've got a roof rack, I kinda just want to vinyl over the sunroof rather than chase down the leak issue. But I know the proper thing is to open it up and attempt to clean out the drains. I really just don't want to remove the headliner right now.
 
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discomeans

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Apr 13, 2021
156
59
Florida, USA
Yesterday I opened up the sunroof (it works!) and cleaned out the sunroof. I looked for an EMBARRASSINGLY long time until I found the drain tubes' exit above the wheels in the front panels left and right of the hood. Does this look stock to you? I'm not a huge fan of how the hose bends slightly lower than the exit.

Anyway, I cleaned them out with some line trimmer line and then blew some air up from the exit. They seem to drain properly now. The rears work just fine.
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I went to replace the blue LED in the map light and found that someone soldered in a LED that didn't fit. They kind mangled the lamp connectors so I have new units ordered to be installed, and I'll put in the proper, warm-white LED replacements (I get all my LED lamps from SuperBrightLEDs.com).
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D2 cupholders installed. I'll probably have to relocate them when we put the LT230 in and I need clearance left and right, but these work for now.

Pulled the IAC (thanks to those who assuaged my fears in the RR forum) and cleaned it. Was pretty carboned up.
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Rangeroversurfer

Rangeroversurfer

Active member
Jan 16, 2013
40
13
Alaska
discomeans said:
Yesterday I opened up the sunroof (it works!) and cleaned out the sunroof. I looked for an EMBARRASSINGLY long time until I found the drain tubes' exit above the wheels in the front panels left and right of the hood. Does this look stock to you? I'm not a huge fan of how the hose bends slightly lower than the exit.

Anyway, I cleaned them out with some line trimmer line and then blew some air up from the exit. They seem to drain properly now. The rears work just fine.
View attachment 63262

I went to replace the blue LED in the map light and found that someone soldered in a LED that didn't fit. They kind mangled the lamp connectors so I have new units ordered to be installed, and I'll put in the proper, warm-white LED replacements (I get all my LED lamps from SuperBrightLEDs.com).
View attachment 63263

D2 cupholders installed. I'll probably have to relocate them when we put the LT230 in and I need clearance left and right, but these work for now.

Pulled the IAC (thanks to those who assuaged my fears in the RR forum) and cleaned it. Was pretty carboned up.
View attachment 63264
Click to expand...
I would replace that, you can cross reference from multiple sources or Duralast Idle Air Control Valve AC4115 from Autozone
 
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Rangeroversurfer

Rangeroversurfer

Active member
Jan 16, 2013
40
13
Alaska
I have restored 3 RRC's, a 90, 91 and 95 RRC. for the most part very straight forward to work on. some quirks but overall very rewarding and reliable. 5 years ago parts were cheap, if you get a chance maybe pick up a RRC parts Rig, could really come in handy, just my 2 cents
 
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discomeans

Well-known member
Apr 13, 2021
156
59
Florida, USA
@Blueboy if you look further up in the post I did do some rust conversion and painting. Will that prep work last forever? Prob not, but the rust wasn't bad enough to require cutting and welding right now (and that's a skill set I don't have at the moment anyway).
 
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discomeans

Well-known member
Apr 13, 2021
156
59
Florida, USA
@Rangeroversurfer thanks for the advice. I think I do need to try a new part given the inexpensive cost, as I’m still seeing the idle issue a bit. But I’m also aware it can be caused by a number of other things do so I may just live with it until the diesel conversion.

@Blueboy this is the first time I’ve used their product and I like it a lot. The dampener is basically the same as Dynamat Xtreme from what I can tell. I’m a real fan of that foam and vinyl layer. Feels luxurious.

I’ve ordered new interior dome lamp bases from RN and some LEDs from SuperBrightLEDs. Hopefully they all come in before a road trip to Key West that I have next week, that by all accounts is still on. That will be the first big road trip for the RRC under my ownership.
 
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Blueboy

Blueboy

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Apr 20, 2004
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Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
discomeans said:
Will that prep work last forever? Prob not, but the rust wasn't bad enough to require cutting and welding right now (and that's a skill set I don't have at the moment anyway).
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I did the same with POR 15 about 7 years ago and it is still holding. And that is with just the carpet which moves around on it. Think it will last longer than you anticipate!
 
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discomeans

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Apr 13, 2021
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Florida, USA
Blueboy said:
I did the same with POR 15 about 7 years ago and it is still holding. And that is with just the carpet which moves around on it. Think it will last longer than you anticipate!
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Thanks for the encouragement. I'm also hoping that the butyl rubber will help seal things up, too.
Blueboy said:
Sounds like a great shakedown trip!
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Yep, I'm excited. I've planned a backroads route (well, as much as possible) that's about 595mi and an estimate 12-13 hours to complete. So the drive down I will be breaking up about halfway over two days. It's surprisingly difficult to get a decent route that's dirt roads going north to south in FL. Here's the link for the curious.

The drive back will be about as direct as possible without any highway travel (about 9 hours), but I'm going to try to do the whole thing in one day. Also, I'm going for a bachelor party, so I'll be attempting that part of the drive hopefully not TOO hungover...
 
Blueboy

Blueboy

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Apr 20, 2004
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Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
discomeans said:
The drive back will be about as direct as possible without any highway travel (about 9 hours), but I'm going to try to do the whole thing in one day. Also, I'm going for a bachelor party, so I'll be attempting that part of the drive hopefully not TOO hungover...
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Suggest hitting the highway and getting that engine running free! At least assuming the internals are up to the task. Best hangover cure is a drive!!
 
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Blueboy

Blueboy

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Apr 20, 2004
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Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
discomeans said:
along with changing from the Borg-Warner transfer case to an LT230.
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Reread your posts and saw this: “I do want this to be a tourer rather than just 4x4”
Not sure I’d change out the B-W. Had a ‘93 LWB with ARB lockers frt and rear. While a LT230 would have been better the B-W worked fine when in Moab on some difficult trails. Unless of course your B-W needs replaced and then it would be an option. Mine failed while in Switzerland and it was just easier to ship a B-W from GB to the dealer and have it installed.
 
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discomeans

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Apr 13, 2021
156
59
Florida, USA
@Blueboy yeah, I read where you’re coming from… we’re basically replacing the whole drivetrain anyways given the high mileage. So then do I go with a rebuilt BW or to a LT? The guy I’m working with prefers the LT for strength and serviceability. I like the quietness of the BW and that it just works when needed. But I also don’t want to find myself stuck somewhere where the only option is getting a rebuilt/“new” one ordered.
 
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discomeans

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Apr 13, 2021
156
59
Florida, USA
Also, I’m running tires bigger than stock (245/70 R16) and we can regear the LT to match them. It already has a 1.5” lift and I don’t plan on changing the suspension anytime soon and I appreciate the slightly larger tires.
 
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