1994 discovery CDL problems

[kade]

Ok guys I've been searching about this for about two weeks. I've looked on this forum a lot and have not been able to find anything but D2 CDL cable post... That may be operator error and I'm sorry but I need help.

I went on a small trail a few weeks ago and noticed no CDL light on the dash. I checked it a few more times and still has not came on since.

Today I got under truck after putting the transmission in N and the transfer case in N. I checked that the CDL links were all attached and all the bolts and such were there and not loose. I could move the link by hand from left to right with a fair amount of elbow grease. Thinking I may have just loosened everything up and solved my problem I set out for a hill to test the CDL.

Got in the wet grass and put it in cdl low, drove to the hill and creeped up until I lost traction. After loosing traction I could feel that only one wheel was spinning(front right). I really don't know how to go about fixing this. The thing drives fine besides the CDL not engaging.

side note... when it was engaging, I would notice a clicking coming from the driver front are at near full lock. Any thoughts? I imagine that is a bad cv?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Buddy]

Not sure on the clicking, would need to hear it to really know.

As for the CDL, did it move freely before or did you have to force it into lock? A lot of CDL's get stuck over the years because they are never used. The best thing to do is to take it out and grease it up and check your links to make sure nothing got bent.

They are not hard to remove but are a bit of a PITA because you have to pull the center console to get at them. So that would be my recommendation, pull the center console and take a look at it and see if things are moving correctly.

 

[kade]

well the stick actually moves great its always been so easy to get into diff lock. nothing changed as far as mobility, the light stopped coming on

 

[cosmic88]

bulb could be burnt out but I doubt it.... easy to check.


When you engage the CDL you still have open diffs at the axles to it is not surprising that you had a wheel spin. The CDL simply distributes equal torque to the front and rear... so side to side, torque is still lost at the wheel with least friction. When choosing your line just try to keep either both front or both rear wheels on the ground at the same time and you will still have traction / movement if ONE wheel comes off the ground or looses friction.

 

[kade]

The reason I do not believe it is the bulb is that I should have at least one wheel spinning front and rear if Im in diff lock correct?

I only had one wheel spinning up front. I know this is not scientific but I figure at the least I could tell all the power was going to one wheel in front and none in the rear.

What I'm really asking I guess is what could be broken? The lever to the t-case looks all hooked up and moves back and forth like normal. I want to have a good idea before a rover place tells me I need a new Tcase or something else very expensive

 

[bri]

Try at your own risk.


Jack one wheel off the ground.


CDL off ALL power goes to that wheel.


CDL on and the axle that is not lift should move you -- don't actually move enough that you would fly off the jack or anything. You should be able to easily notice that the other axle is pulling you.

 

[K-rover]

Yes, you should have one tire spinning per axle when the diff is locked.

I would get under the truck and make sure the linkage is actually turning the nipple on the transfer case.
If you have to, get under there and lock it yourself.

If that still doesnt get you 4wd, then you may have to dig into the transfer case.

FWIW you can get a good used case for $200 or less if you look around.

 

[K-rover]

Try at your own risk.


Jack one wheel off the ground.


CDL off ALL power goes to that wheel.


CDL on and the axle that is not lift should move you -- don't actually move enough that you would fly off the jack or anything. You should be able to easily notice that the other axle is pulling you.

Pulling one of the driveshafts would be a safer way of testing.

 

[kade]

The nipple on the transfer case, is it attached to by the c type bracket to the shaft?

 

[bri]

Pulling one of the driveshafts would be a safer way of testing.

Sure, but potentially a lot more effort. Never personally had any problem with it myself only need to lift the wheel an inch and usually you don't even need to move just to see if power is there. I usually just use a shop jack with wheels so if I happen to move 1/2 inch, there really is no problem and likely the biggest risk is to your jack.


You could also just find a something large to drive on to lift a tire, but likely this is less safe than my jack idea, which I have done a number of times and never damaged anything.

 

[kade]

After reading the Ashcroft FAQ I may be able to adjust the throw of the lever or back out the diff lock switch a little bit. Both are said to be common problems for older t-cases.

Ill advise later on if this works or not.

 

[Vic00Dis]

Maybe I don't know how this works.. but I read that I have full time 4x4 in low or High in my 2000 and to lock the diffs is the same as having a air shifter instead of the elect like I am supposed to have . that is what makes it a Cham[ 4x4 and have poor mileage on the Highway. ??? please tell me what to read to set me straight..

 

[kade]

In the 2000 model you should have AWD yes, and a choice of high or low range. I do not believe the 200 Discovery came with ANY diff locks. They did have traction control which tries to take the place of diff locks I guess... They do have aftermarket levers and cables that could possibly give you the chance to lock your center diff.

Yes they Rover is heavy and pushing a AWD all the time I'm sure make it worse on fuel.


ANY D2 guys chime in if you like.

If you do not understand what all the diffs do I can or someone else will explain.

I hope this helps... If not maybe ask the question a different way so I can better help.

 

[kade]

If anyone cares, It turned out to be the pin that held the linkage together at the top. I put it back together with a small bolt I had laying around and it is back to working fine.