1996 Disco fuel filter replacement

jdp1093

Member
Jan 18, 2021
24
1
Virginia
I am a new LR owner. I bought a 1996 Discovery last week. It was a little rough running like there was trash in the pump or filter clogged. I have replaced the air filter, mass air flow sensor, fuel pump (where I found a shop rag in the fuel tank), and I am replacing the fuel filter last. It's rusty and I have gotten the tank side undone but I have having problems accessing the front end of the filter. Can someone give me an idea on the best way to access the filter and be able to get it broke loose due the the rust? I have sprayed pb blaster to help but between wrenches, big hands, and the rustiness I'm at a loss. Thank you.
 

Levi

Well-known member
Jul 27, 2004
559
26
Cheyenne, WY
Search BMW fuel filter, I think most of us have gone this route of cutting the old one out and replacing it with a barbed one.
 
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Knightspirit

Well-known member
Sep 22, 2019
251
84
Mount Shasta, CA
I am just about to replace mine as well - read the manual about de-pressurizing the fuel system. It says to remove the fuel pump relay and run the car until it dies. Apparently the system remains pressurized even after shut off - so you might get sprayed if you don't do this. Expect to lose some gas in the process as well (even unpressurized) so get a bucket under there....
 
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Toran

Well-known member
Feb 3, 2017
416
48
Ohio
Sadly you may have to cut it off. I had the same headache years ago. I replaced my setup with a retrofit kit like in the image.

You can get the filter kit from Atlantic British
Screen Shot 2021-01-21 at 1.07.36 PM.png

Or check out one of the box auto stores in the neighborhood for a filter that has fittings that are similar. I use a
Purolator F65277 Fuel Filter
Screen Shot 2021-01-21 at 1.16.14 PM.png

You'll be happy you did this, now you have more time to clean the gutters or other chores around the house
 
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jdp1093

Member
Jan 18, 2021
24
1
Virginia
Thanks everyone. I went ahead and got the kit from atlantic british because I was missing the retainer holder. I think this will be the best and easiest. Stay tuned this won't be the last post for help. Lol
 

robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
4,778
354
-
Agreed. Was about to suggest that

its a pain in the ass to remember what component you rigged in place when its maintenance time. Stock filter is really common and cheap too
 
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Knightspirit

Well-known member
Sep 22, 2019
251
84
Mount Shasta, CA
So is any one really de-pressurizing the system when changing the filter? I followed the instructions in the manual - but none of my relays are the color they say -and when I pulled the one I thought was for the fuel pump - nothing happened, the car just kept running. Here is where they are supposed to be:

IMG_5955.JPG
IMG_5956.JPG

This is on the passenger side - manual says the fuel pump relay has a blue base and the main relay has a black base. Mine are green and yellow.

Is this even necessary? If so, does anyone know where the proper relays are (Disco 1)?
 
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Jimmy

Well-known member
Apr 10, 2006
740
64
Aurora, CO
manual says the fuel pump relay has a blue base and the main relay has a black base. Mine are green and yellow.

Is this even necessary? If so, does anyone know where the proper relays are (Disco 1)?

I usually go for the wiring diagram and ID the relays based on the wires which run to them. Last time I poked around that area with all the relays, my relays didn't match pictures or descriptions, but the wiring (both color and size) were spot on.
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,706
1,015
Northern Illinois
I can usually get those filters off. I take a big curved jaw visegrips and clamp them to the filter body. I use a 13/16 wrench to basically tear the nut off the body of the filter. Then I hold the 5/8 line fitting with a good line wrench and use my 1/2 inch impact to burp the 13/16 nut off the line. Works great and then you don't have that shitty kit to deal with.
 
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fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,927
201
Lake Villa, IL
I'd recommend the barbed filter route. Some version of it is available everywhere. Even the dumbest guy at AutoZone should be able to find you a replacement if needed.
As far as depressurizing, take a big pair of side cutters and cut off the rusted fuel line. The line will depressurize quickly.
 
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Flyfish

Well-known member
Oct 29, 2004
1,402
212
52
St. Louis
I am just about to replace mine as well - read the manual about de-pressurizing the fuel system. It says to remove the fuel pump relay and run the car until it dies. Apparently the system remains pressurized even after shut off - so you might get sprayed if you don't do this. Expect to lose some gas in the process as well (even unpressurized) so get a bucket under there....
You can press the Schrader valve on the fuel rail if you have one or loosen the fuel line to let the pressure out. Worst case, some gas will come out. You can use hose clamp pliers to stop any additional flow if needed.
 
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terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
1,485
375
For stubborn long neglected fuel filter replacements, I cut the hoses and pull the filter off with the fittings still attached tothe filter. With the filter off it is much easier to get wrenches on the fittings making removing them a lot easier. I cut off the crimp collars with a dremel tool. I then install new hoses on the fittings and use standard hose clamps to secure them where the crimp collars had been. There is a barb on the end of each fitting making the use of standard hose clamps just fine. For the hose pieces and clamps on the fuel lines, usually, the hose clamps are so rusted i just break them off with a vise grip plier. The fuel line is usually too hard to just pull off so I cut them off with a utility knife.

i bought several fuel filters from rock auto for about $3.00 each when they did one of their typical wholesale close outs. With 4 new hose clamps, about six inches of fuel hose, a couple o-rings, and a $3.00 fuel filter, I am all in for less than $10.00 and with new fuel hoses in place the next filter change is easy. I put a little anti-seize on the threads of the fittings as well.

Doing this allows you stick with a stock filter which are still cheap and easy to find.
 
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