Last year , when I came off the highway the oil pressure light of my 300Tdi D1 came on. So I bought a gauge, hoping for the switch to be faulty: it quickly showed me the switch was just fine... so, next step:
Change the oil for a 20W50 and put a new filter in. that cured the situation for a while. Pressure was round 1,1 bar on idle when hot. Acceptable, but not according to RAVE specs.
Soon though, the light came on again. forcing me to the next step:
Changed main and conrod bearings, put a new oil pump in, said a stupid prayer, took a test drive with the oil light coming on at the end of it..
So, I thought: what if the pressure relief valve somehow gets stuck in open position when hot?? So I replaced the relief valve spring with a solid piece of metal . ..
>>>>>>> NEVER DO THIS !!!:
I pulled out of the driveway, revved it up to around 1700RPM and a Loud bang followed by an oil trail behind me...
Turned out that the oil filter gasket was (luckily) blown out by the high oil pressure, and that the pressure relief valve is there for a reason and working harder than one would expect
Back to the shed...
Took the engine apart and all I could find was a little-worn first cam bearing. Being fed up as I was I decided it was time for action, and bought a reconditioned engine from Turner Engineering, setting me back 3600 euro's.
I replaced the Turbo, the intercooler, ripped the aircon out, put a HD clutch in, changed everything I came across that looked a little worn, had my injectors serviced and mounted the bigass aircon fans on a newly made frame directly in front of the radiator. Two weeks later it rolled out of the shed again....
Took it for the first drive and after 27 km's .... THE OIL LIGHT CAME ON !!!!!!!!!!!!! :banghead:
Rolled back to the shed, got drunk, ordered a new after market radiator (the only thing not replaced so far) and put it in. Now everything seemed fine, although the engine wouldnt heat up. That was solved with a new thermostat, and it seemed I could finally start my break-in run for my newish engine.
Everything went well with the Turner supplied SAE 30 break-in oil, but I didn't go on the highway or above 2500RPM.
After 500mls I serviced it, and put in Full Synthetic 5W40 Valvoline oil. And after my first long run on the highway THE OIL LIGHT CAME ON AGAINnnnnn. So now I'm , apart from becoming mentally unstable, down to two options:
-The oil-thermostat is faulty, so the oil gets to hot, causing pressure drop (although I tested it in boiling water)
-The Chinese radiator has too much flow resistance in the oil cooler bit, and causes pressure drop (I noticed before putting it in that blowing air through the Chinese was a lot harder than the original LR one)
I'm now waiting for the Bearmach oil-thermostat to be delivered, and for any out-of-the-box ideas from you guys, because I've had it for now. Please send all Ideas , thanx,
Jasper from Holland
Change the oil for a 20W50 and put a new filter in. that cured the situation for a while. Pressure was round 1,1 bar on idle when hot. Acceptable, but not according to RAVE specs.
Soon though, the light came on again. forcing me to the next step:
Changed main and conrod bearings, put a new oil pump in, said a stupid prayer, took a test drive with the oil light coming on at the end of it..
So, I thought: what if the pressure relief valve somehow gets stuck in open position when hot?? So I replaced the relief valve spring with a solid piece of metal . ..
>>>>>>> NEVER DO THIS !!!:
I pulled out of the driveway, revved it up to around 1700RPM and a Loud bang followed by an oil trail behind me...
Turned out that the oil filter gasket was (luckily) blown out by the high oil pressure, and that the pressure relief valve is there for a reason and working harder than one would expect
Back to the shed...
Took the engine apart and all I could find was a little-worn first cam bearing. Being fed up as I was I decided it was time for action, and bought a reconditioned engine from Turner Engineering, setting me back 3600 euro's.
I replaced the Turbo, the intercooler, ripped the aircon out, put a HD clutch in, changed everything I came across that looked a little worn, had my injectors serviced and mounted the bigass aircon fans on a newly made frame directly in front of the radiator. Two weeks later it rolled out of the shed again....
Took it for the first drive and after 27 km's .... THE OIL LIGHT CAME ON !!!!!!!!!!!!! :banghead:
Rolled back to the shed, got drunk, ordered a new after market radiator (the only thing not replaced so far) and put it in. Now everything seemed fine, although the engine wouldnt heat up. That was solved with a new thermostat, and it seemed I could finally start my break-in run for my newish engine.
Everything went well with the Turner supplied SAE 30 break-in oil, but I didn't go on the highway or above 2500RPM.
After 500mls I serviced it, and put in Full Synthetic 5W40 Valvoline oil. And after my first long run on the highway THE OIL LIGHT CAME ON AGAINnnnnn. So now I'm , apart from becoming mentally unstable, down to two options:
-The oil-thermostat is faulty, so the oil gets to hot, causing pressure drop (although I tested it in boiling water)
-The Chinese radiator has too much flow resistance in the oil cooler bit, and causes pressure drop (I noticed before putting it in that blowing air through the Chinese was a lot harder than the original LR one)
I'm now waiting for the Bearmach oil-thermostat to be delivered, and for any out-of-the-box ideas from you guys, because I've had it for now. Please send all Ideas , thanx,
Jasper from Holland