4.6 Rebuild has started - Any Secrets not in the manual?

[bendts]

Finally got all the parts back from the engine shop yesterday where i had the crank, crankshaft pulley, flywheel, piston and rods balanced, along with new cam bearings installed for the crower cam. Also a much needed valve job.

So far today i got all the freeze plugs installed with a block heater, Cam installed and the crank / new timing chain in and torqued.

Next is the Pistons, front cover, new lifters/push-rods and heads w/ARP studs.

Any info (not in the manual) that others have found when doing a rebuild that will help?

This is a 2001 4.0 no with 4.6 crank and rods.

Thanks

 

[KyleT]

4.0 Pistons for higher compression.

Mustang injectors.

 

[bendts]

4.0 Pistons for higher compression.

Mustang injectors.

The 4.0 pistons that came out of the motor are the same as the 4.6 ones i got with the 4.6 rods (mounted), they both have about a shallow 2 7/8' dish in the middle - not sure if those are the High Comp version or not.

 

[discostew]

Pack grease into the oil pump , in all the gaps between gears and housing, so it primes itself fast . You don't want to be sitting there waiting for oil psi after all that work and cash . Its an old Buick and Olds trick . Vasaline is good but bearing grease will work the same .

 

[discostew]

4.0 Pistons for higher compression.

Mustang injectors.

I'm building a truck right now . Tell me a little about using these Ford injectors . Any different pattern or volume ? I figured it was just a cost issue , but I've never really looked into it . I want to know how this cam has worked for anyone who ran it .

 

[bendts]

One thing i did learn from the engine shop/builder is about oil. Especially oil for these Flat Tappet motors.

The oil he said that I/we should use (at least for the break-in period) is one with high Zinc and Phosphorus, as these provide a layer of "padding" between the Cam lobes and Tappets.

What he recommended was Lucas Hot-Rod Oil or Joe Gibbs Racing, Driven Racing Oil - Both have the high Zinc and Phosphorus content.

They both make a Break-in oil too.

He said it would be good to use one of these for about 20K before changing to one of the more conventional oils.

Now while at NAPA last night, the guy there said that Valvoline Racing oil also has the Zinc but didn't say anything about the Phos content - Have not looked into the Valvoline oil yet, but that would be easier to get for regular oil changes. Not sure about the many other brands of racing oil either.

The reason that the Zinc and Phos are removed from the new oils is for the Cats and they work fine in roller cam systems.

So will it make a diff? Not sure but i will head his suggestion - ordered the Lucas oil from Summit - both the break-in and hot-rod oil. Got enough for 5 oil changes.

Thought it was interesting info and would pass it on - YMMV.

 

[jymmiejamz]

My only suggestion would be to not use studs for the head bolts.

 

[bendts]

My only suggestion would be to not use studs for the head bolts.

Why is that? All i've read/seen is that is the way to go for an actual torque.

 

[jymmiejamz]

Why is that? All i've read/seen is that is the way to go for an actual torque.

This is the first example that comes to mind. I've seen the same thing on another vehicle that came into the dealership with studs, and that is the only time I've seen head studs used in person that I can think of.

 

[ChrismonDA]

I'm building a truck right now . Tell me a little about using these Ford injectors . Any different pattern or volume ? I figured it was just a cost issue , but I've never really looked into it . I want to know how this cam has worked for anyone who ran it .

Was wondering the same thing. Also what year Ford injectors?

 

[chris1d2se7]

Hello,
How much did your machine shop charge to do all that work? I also have read that new cam break in is very important. Please let us know how much more power the new cam and displacement feels like. Thanks

 

[bendts]

Hello,
How much did your machine shop charge to do all that work? I also have read that new cam break in is very important. Please let us know how much more power the new cam and displacement feels like. Thanks

$600 for everything - there where a few other things he did too. I thought it was a decent price, but i'm out in the country so big city costs may be more.

I will - it should be a nice surprise form what felt like a tired 4.0.

 

[Mike26]

Replaced my 4.0 with a 4.6 with the crower 229 cam, feels like a totally different truck. Is it fast, no, but it's a hell of a lot faster than before. I can comfortably drive it and pass cars on the highway. Main thing I'm interested in is how badly will it bog down when running in Colorado at higher elevations which I'll find out later this year.

As far as oil goes, the machine shop and buddies that helped me do all the work all recommend Joe Gibbs racing oil. We used the break-in 20w50 for the camshaft break in and the first 300 miles. Now I'm running their 20w50 conventional. For the cam break in, as soon as you turn on the truck for the first time, bring it to 2,000 rpm and vary the rpms between 2-2,500 rpm for the first 20-30 minutes

 

[discostew]

Replaced my 4.0 with a 4.6 with the crower 229 cam, feels like a totally different truck. Is it fast, no, but it's a hell of a lot faster than before. I can comfortably drive it and pass cars on the highway. Main thing I'm interested in is how badly will it bog down when running in Colorado at higher elevations which I'll find out later this year.

As far as oil goes, the machine shop and buddies that helped me do all the work all recommend Joe Gibbs racing oil. We used the break-in 20w50 for the camshaft break in and the first 300 miles. Now I'm running their 20w50 conventional. For the cam break in, as soon as you turn on the truck for the first time, bring it to 2,000 rpm and vary the rpms between 2-2,500 rpm for the first 20-30 minutes

Do you notice any pinging ? I wonder if there is any knock sensor activity as compared to a stock cam . I plan to run this cam and also am going to try to get my hands on an Australian market PROM . Then run custom exhaust with no cats . Just have somebody bend some stuff to fit the stock muffler probably.

 

[rover4x4]

let me know when you find the PROM

 

[ptschram]

The pistons have a different compression height. It is my opinion that no benefit can be gained unless one disable the knock sensors or modifies the EMS to allow for less ignition advance-or running E-85.

If one is not building a supercharged engine, there is no reason and less benefit to studding the engine.

The camshaft will have little to no effect on the knock sensors.

It won't be necessary to pack the oil pump with grease-the crank-driven oil pumps prime quickly. I do however like to put some white lube/90wt in there as I've found it works better than Vaseline.

First generation Ford injectors, 16 ohms impedance, 19 pounds per hour.

 

[Mike26]

There is no pinging from knock sensors or anything caused by the crower cam. I will say that there is slightly more noise from the engine and a slightly greater vibration as well at idle. Some searching of old hot rod forums and talking with the machine shop, slightly more noise/vibration from the aggressive camshaft should be expected as its forcing the lifters up higher and faster than a factory camshaft. That and I've got the metal engine mounts, so chicks love it...

 

[bendts]

This is the first example that comes to mind. I've seen the same thing on another vehicle that came into the dealership with studs, and that is the only time I've seen head studs used in person that I can think of.

Thanks for the info - But i had already opened the box and installed the studs. So we will see - This is there directions and i followed them as written -

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/157-4301.pdf

Did notice on one of the ARP threads (could be the one you linked) that there is a mention of ARP suggesting "RE-Torquing"...

Does that mean to go back and check the final 100 ft lbs torque? Or is it something else as it was not in the directions i downloaded.

 

[ptschram]

In the old days, it was considered common practice to run an engine in and then re-torque the head bolts.

With modern metallurgy and current assembly practices, this is no longer considered necessary.

 

[nolift911]

I see a lot of folks rebuilding these motors but isn't one of the weakest points the cylinder liners. Why not just top hat the block while you are "in there" or did I miss that somewhere and that is just standard practice?