95 RRC LWB What I need to know?

LRDONE

Well-known member
Dec 3, 2020
340
119
Michigan
Good Morning all, I have the opportunity to get my hands on a cheap 95 RRC LWB and I need some insight. I first saw the truck a couple years ago and it was just now offered to me. Body is rusty, interior is in decent shape, frame is good, hasn't run in 5 years. Initially I was looking for a parts driveline for my D1 and I thought maybe this RRC could be it. Worst case scenario the mechanical components get salvaged and the rest is history. Should I run from it? Or if I shouldn't run from it, what's a rough value for these trucks? The prices seem to be all over the place and I certainly don't want to over pay for what could potentially be just a parts truck.

Now my next question, If I were to salvage the drive line out of this classic, Is the 4.2 a bad idea for a back up motor? It's my understanding that it's just a stroked 3.9? And how "swappable" are the component's from this RRC to a D1? Any input would be appreciated! Thanks.
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,763
564
Seattle
It's cliche, but there's truth to the saying that the most expensive car you can buy is a cheap Land Rover. If you're getting a good deal, the rust is advanced, and your goal is to cannibalize it for parts, then that is one set of expectations. If you're looking to restore it, then prepare to spend more money and time than you think it will take. I've seen a 4.2 put into a D90, but that might have been a 1994 to 1994. As a general statement, the 1995 Range Rover has a lot of components specific to that model year, which makes it harder to source parts and limits interchangeability with other vehicles of similar vintage. And the parts that are interchangeable are often cheaply and easily sourced without buying an entire donor vehicle. If you want to bring a RRC back to its original glory, a 1995 will not be the easiest starting point.
 
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LRDONE

Well-known member
Dec 3, 2020
340
119
Michigan
It's cliche, but there's truth to the saying that the most expensive car you can buy is a cheap Land Rover. If you're getting a good deal, the rust is advanced, and your goal is to cannibalize it for parts, then that is one set of expectations. If you're looking to restore it, then prepare to spend more money and time than you think it will take. I've seen a 4.2 put into a D90, but that might have been a 1994 to 1994. As a general statement, the 1995 Range Rover has a lot of components specific to that model year, which makes it harder to source parts and limits interchangeability with other vehicles of similar vintage. And the parts that are interchangeable are often cheaply and easily sourced without buying an entire donor vehicle. If you want to bring a RRC back to its original glory, a 1995 will not be the easiest starting point.
800 bucks and it's mine is what I was told..
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,763
564
Seattle
That's too good to pass up. If nothing else, you can easily make that back from parting it out.
 

LRDONE

Well-known member
Dec 3, 2020
340
119
Michigan
That's kind of what I was thinking. It's by no means going to start up and drive down the street but, I was thinking getting it into the garage, cleaning it up and reevaluating. My concerns: It's supposed to have the Borg-warner transfer case and I really don't care for that and I'm certainly not going to save that for my D1. The axles should be the same? Transmission should be the same? The 4.2 motor a 3.9 block I believe are the same only difference is crank and some strengthening on the 4.2 block from the Perkins adventure, correct me if I'm wrong.
 

Flyfish

Well-known member
Oct 29, 2004
1,402
212
52
St. Louis
That's kind of what I was thinking. It's by no means going to start up and drive down the street but, I was thinking getting it into the garage, cleaning it up and reevaluating. My concerns: It's supposed to have the Borg-warner transfer case and I really don't care for that and I'm certainly not going to save that for my D1. The axles should be the same? Transmission should be the same? The 4.2 motor a 3.9 block I believe are the same only difference is crank and some strengthening on the 4.2 block from the Perkins adventure, correct me if I'm wrong.
Pretty much everything underneath, the axles, driveline, suspension etc, is interchangeable with any D1/D90 NAS. Block is interchangeable, just a serpentine dizzy setup..

Wonder why it hasn’t run for five years? Doesn’t take a lot to get those running if nothing catastrophic.
$800 is probably a good deal.
 

LRDONE

Well-known member
Dec 3, 2020
340
119
Michigan
It's just been sitting in a yard with the earth trying to reclaim it. I think it ran when it was parked but that doesn't mean anything after 5 years.
 

Flyfish

Well-known member
Oct 29, 2004
1,402
212
52
St. Louis
It's just been sitting in a yard with the earth trying to reclaim it. I think it ran when it was parked but that doesn't mean anything after 5 years.
I would pull the spark plugs and add some Marvel or something in each cylinder. After a day or two, try spinning the engine by hand.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,733
1,023
Northern Illinois
I would get it and part it out myself. The '95 soft dash will fit in a Disco and its a cool mod to do. Lots of other stuff you could sell also. That thing is worth more parted out, I say that because it's been sitting for years.
 

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
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La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
Parts interchangeability with the D1:

Engine: heads, intake+plenum, exhaust, fuel rail, injectors are the same. Block, crank, cam, front cover, flywheel are different. Basically, the only part from the shortblock that should interchange is the oil pump. Y-pipe is not directly interchangeable - you could use an RRC one on a D1, but you'll need to weld in proper O2 sensor bungs in front and behind the cats, and I am not sure if it is of the same length as D1. O2 sensors are not interchangeable.
Airbox is _almost_ the same, with D1's different by a port for ambient air temperature sensor.

Transmission: either the same or easily adaptable.

Transfer case: different (although, I know some people who swapped LT230 out for a Borg Warner case).
Driveshafts: none

Axles: front axle on a 95 has brackets for shock absorbers mounted in front of the axle, unlike D1. It does not prevent the shocks to be mounted in the same location as on a D1 or any other coil-suspension truck. Front brake rotor and caliper are different (better on the RRC than on a D1); rear brake setup should be the same (not 100% sure, need to take a peek). Axle shafts are exactly the same.

Suspension and steering parts: mostly the same or interchangeable (that actually includes the airbags if they are still on the truck).
The 95 RRC may have a pitman arm with integrated ball joint - I usually replace the RRC drag link/pitman arm with D1 combo.

Body: windshield has the same dimensions, but it is heated in the RRC. These in good condition are very rare. The dashboard can be swapped into a D1, it is of far better quality and design than a D1's, but it'll take some work.

Seats: can be retrofittted into a D1, and it is a huge upgrade. D1's seats are remarkable junk, while later year Classics' are great.

Gas tank: should be the same, but your D1 is already advanced-EVAP, so there may be differences.

Electrical: alternator and starter are the same, a handful of relays is also interchangeable.
 

LRDONE

Well-known member
Dec 3, 2020
340
119
Michigan
Parts interchangeability with the D1:

Engine: heads, intake+plenum, exhaust, fuel rail, injectors are the same. Block, crank, cam, front cover, flywheel are different. Basically, the only part from the shortblock that should interchange is the oil pump. Y-pipe is not directly interchangeable - you could use an RRC one on a D1, but you'll need to weld in proper O2 sensor bungs in front and behind the cats, and I am not sure if it is of the same length as D1. O2 sensors are not interchangeable.
Airbox is _almost_ the same, with D1's different by a port for ambient air temperature sensor.

Transmission: either the same or easily adaptable.

Transfer case: different (although, I know some people who swapped LT230 out for a Borg Warner case).
Driveshafts: none

Axles: front axle on a 95 has brackets for shock absorbers mounted in front of the axle, unlike D1. It does not prevent the shocks to be mounted in the same location as on a D1 or any other coil-suspension truck. Front brake rotor and caliper are different (better on the RRC than on a D1); rear brake setup should be the same (not 100% sure, need to take a peek). Axle shafts are exactly the same.

Suspension and steering parts: mostly the same or interchangeable (that actually includes the airbags if they are still on the truck).
The 95 RRC may have a pitman arm with integrated ball joint - I usually replace the RRC drag link/pitman arm with D1 combo.

Body: windshield has the same dimensions, but it is heated in the RRC. These in good condition are very rare. The dashboard can be swapped into a D1, it is of far better quality and design than a D1's, but it'll take some work.

Seats: can be retrofittted into a D1, and it is a huge upgrade. D1's seats are remarkable junk, while later year Classics' are great.

Gas tank: should be the same, but your D1 is already advanced-EVAP, so there may be differences.

Electrical: alternator and starter are the same, a handful of relays is also interchangeable.
Wow! This is exactly what I needed to see. I'm actually gonna pass on it because it's not a good candidate for restoration, I guess the floors are gone from the last time I seen it. There is just not enough similarity for it to be a good parts truck for me. I could buy it and part it out but I just don't have the time for that. I'd rather be out driving mine and keeping my eye out for a cheap D1 whether it's upside down in a field with an exact drivetrain or starts up and drives home. lol

I really appreciate the input.