96 D1 alarm issues

Gordo

Well-known member
Hey DWeb, I got a 96 D1 that the alarm keeps going off. pretty much as soon as it sets but sometimes takes a bit. It doesnt matter if I use the key or fob same thing. I can turn it off and the truck starts right up so no issue with not starting. All the doors are locking. I did change the hood sensor since I have an extra but that didnt seem to help. For now Im just holding the key in lock so the alarm doesnt trigger but I'd like to figure it out. Any suggestions, Ive googled around but havent found anything yet. Thanks Gordo
 
Hi, You may check each switch by diagnose method:
There is a way to check each alarm related switch, systematically and conclusively.
This way is carrying out a routine that indicates to alarm that we want to do this verification.
It starts with sitting in the driver's seat, all the doors closed. As it is not essential that windows are closed, I suggest leaving driver's window fully open.
So things, you have to perform following operations within 5 seconds:
  1. Pull bonnet-opening lever.
  2. Turn key to ignition (ignition on).
  3. Open driver's door.
  4. Turn key to off (off).
  5. Turn ignition key again (ignition on).
  6. If self-test mode was successfully understood by alarm, engine lock light will flash and beacon lights will light once, while horn sounds.
If that does not happen, it means that we did something wrong and we have to try again...

In this self-test mode, we can test all different parts -switches- that when activated one by one in an indifferent order do blink dashboard's LED and beacon lights as switch test confirmation:
· Each one of the doors (we are testing that each door push button reaches alarm)
· Tailgate (we are testing that tailgate pushbutton reaches alarm)
· Bonnet (we are testing that hood button arrives at alarm)
· Driver's door button above (we are testing that "open button" switch reaches alarm)
· Driver's door button below (we are testing that "closed button" switch reaches alarm)
· The key drum of driver's door, with a second key (we are checking a switch that is activated when turning key from the midpoint towards each side, and mechanical operation of key duplicate)

Any drive that does not have its echo in beacon lights indicates that this sensor is failing, which can translate into problems of system operation, from the simple non-detection of opening by intruders to an erroneous alarm state or impossibility of leaving alarm activated .

Finished this outside check, it is the turn to test volumetric sensor, for which you have to press "open" button of remote control.
This switches the system from EXTERNAL self-test mode to INTERIOR test mode.
So things, when we excite volumetric sensor, for example moving our arm entering through the open window, blink dashboard's LED along with the beacon lights.
This operation can be repeated many times, and it helps us to realize the degree of sensitivity of this sensor inside the cabin.

Finally everything ends simply by switching ignition off by means of ignition key.
Nothing we could do for this procedure is recorded or induces subsequent errors. When we remove key we will be returning to normal everyday use.

Regards
 

Gordo

Well-known member
That is much clearer than the workshop manual. I have tried countless times to enter the test mode though and it doesnt seem to do anything at all. I just tried again. I even tried bypassing the hood switch and it still goes off so I dont believe its the problem (I have a spare that didnt help either). it seems to arm and flashes fast then goes to a slower flash before going off rather quickly most times.
 

Gordo

Well-known member
scratch that. it seems to be partial arming sometimes (the led doesnt come on for 10s or so then flashes slowly). After about 5 min the hazards flash three times. it still goes off at some point though if you leave it armed.
 

Gordo

Well-known member
Not sure if I fixed it as it is too late to test it but someone apparently pulled the eiwl output wire out of the alarm ecu harness plug. I put it back and hopefully this will fix it. The door lock spring appears fine. We will see!
 

Gordo

Well-known member
No luck. The yellow wire that wasn’t installed does go to eiwl output. In the electrical manual it goes to the aerial but there is already another wire there. I couldn’t get it back out of the plug so I just clipped it. Gonna have to get it on software I guess since I can’t get into test mode. Thanks all
 

Gordo

Well-known member
Figured I update in case anyone found this searching later. I went to the junkyard and grabbed an ecu and alarm unit out of a 98. Replaced both and all is good. The remote doesn’t work but I can live with that or address later. Thanks again I guess the alarm unit itself was faulty. 45$ well spent!
 

robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
4,778
354
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You’re probably going to have some check engine light codes with a 98 advanced evap ecu on a 96.
 

terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
1,485
375
Assuming you have the 2 button FOBS, if you send this place your 10AS unit and key FOBs they can make them work with the 98 10AS unit.

They list the service on eBay UK and you can either go direct via the link below or use eBay. Cost is very reasonable.

Or, they can repair your original 10AS unit.


 
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terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
1,485
375
I no longer have an engine ECU in my D1. I bought my D1 with a connecting rod sticking out of the side the block for the express purpose of the installing a 300TDi. No V8, no need for an ECU. I just took it out. The D1 arrived without any FOBS so I bought a 10AS unit from Will Tillery with one FOB. I wanted more than 1 FOB but that is what he had. I didn’t know about Techozen at that point. However, in my search for additional FOBS I learned how there really isn’t a generic replacement. I was successful at finding some good used FOBS. So, when I found Technozen, I sent my spare 10AS unit off to them with the used FOBS. They not only programmed the unit to the FOBS but they put new cases on all the FOBS. Now, they look and work perfectly. It was relatively quick. I went through EBay UK as I felt it gave me a little more recourse if anything went wrong.