What do you have against a/c? The coils come right up out of there if you bend that a/c pipe back there just a little bit towards the firewall. I used to put a long 1/2 in extension against the pipe and hit it with a hammer. Not hard enough to crush it but it would bend it back enough.
Advice for work to do while the engine is out
- Thread starter eburrows
- Start date
Never used it. I just roll the windows down. Less things to repair, and better airflow for the radiator- I junked the condenser and aux fan too. Coil pack relocation was unrelated and came later when I had the intake off, and saw that empty ac compressor spot.. and thought, why not? So I moved it there.
AC pipe wasn't an issue when dealing with coil packs.. it was the secondary air injection pipes. I'd get rid of SAI if I could.. but gotta pass smog
Such a crazy amount of parts and complication for a feature that only runs for a minute during a cold-start.
http://www.aluminumv8.com/Home/DandD
Word on the street is... RPI sends their engines to Turner to work on as a subcontractor. I've had a few UK Land Rover V8 owners tell me this. I also heard that RPI is an outstanding business.
I've been meaning to stop by RPI and check them out since they are an hour away from me in Norwich.
Last edited:
ACR got back to me quickly with a pretty decent reply and initial suggestions/questions. I'm going to explore that a bit.
It's possible there was a miscommunication with Turner, so I'll drop them a line again. There is the potential my accent was troublesome, and I also get the impression they're doing a lot of work for others, as has been noted in this thread. It may be the case that I was simply sent to the wrong person.
Cheers,
Kennith
It's possible there was a miscommunication with Turner, so I'll drop them a line again. There is the potential my accent was troublesome, and I also get the impression they're doing a lot of work for others, as has been noted in this thread. It may be the case that I was simply sent to the wrong person.
Cheers,
Kennith
Please do, if you ever have the chance. I'd like to know what's up, and I think more people should be paying closer attention to these guys, given the age of the vehicles. It's going to become more important as time goes by.
Cheers,
Kennith
Fuck it. I just shot an e-mail off to see how much it would cost to have a billet 4.0 Rover V8 block made.
Anyone care to place a bet on whether or not they'll respond? How about the cost; any guesses?
Sometimes it's not too bad. Sometimes it's horribly expensive. It's impossible to tell where it will land.
Cheers,
Kennith
Anyone care to place a bet on whether or not they'll respond? How about the cost; any guesses?
Sometimes it's not too bad. Sometimes it's horribly expensive. It's impossible to tell where it will land.
Cheers,
Kennith
Why stay with a 4.0 when all you have to do is get a good used 4.6 crank and a set of 4.6 rods to get a 4.6. Thats what I did and it made a nice improvement in drive-ability. Also added a Crower cam.
Well, eventually someone will tell me how that cam changes things, but up until now all I hear is that it's awesome and I should have one.
As for the 4.6, I don't really care. The 4.0 has enough juice to get the job done. I was told last night that it would be advisable to stroke the thing to increase reliability and performance (lower revs to hit the torque is the idea), but the point was missed that I actually like the upper end of the power band. There is no free lunch. Cams aren't fucking magic.
I'll be discussing that again next week with them, but yet again I get the "performance data doesn't matter" response when asking about how the output is affected and to see test results. All that means is that they don't know, they don't care, and they can't be bothered to find out. Now, I wasn't speaking to "the man" this time, so I'll let this one slide until next week to be sure, but if I get that shit again I'm going to be annoyed.
Sure, I wouldn't mind a touch more power, but it's either everywhere it used to be or they can keep it. Maybe the cam/crank combo comes close to bringing it back into line, and maybe it doesn't. Nobody seems to be able to tell me with any manner of authority.
I don't care how long someone's been doing something. That doesn't mean they know why it's being done, and why is the most important factor involved.
Cheers,
Kennith
I just put in the Base Crower Cam and stroked it to a 4.6 - Got rid of all the emissions crap (including the cats) & pluged the SAI holes in the heads, balanced the crank, as well as the usual new rings, gasket set.
Made a nice difference.
Going to big on the cam is a waste for me, and it probably negates drive-ability and reliability in the long run.
Made a nice difference.
Going to big on the cam is a waste for me, and it probably negates drive-ability and reliability in the long run.
My question would be this: What's the difference?
Nobody knows...
Some of those sensors are actually useful, but I've considered ditching some of the emissions stuff. With my luck, they'd bring that part of the inspection back a month after I was done, though; or I'd move somewhere only to find it was required. I do like being able to see all that stuff on the Scangauge, and despite how much of a pain it can be, codes are pretty damned convenient.
Cheers,
Kennith
I still get all the info on the scanguage - the only fault I have is one of the O2 sensors reads as low voltage. - Pretty sure its the rear one and has no effect on the engine - and that may be from the removal of the SAI clutter.
After removing all the EPA crap the engine runs much cleaner inside - last oil change (after 3000 miles), you could still see through the oil. Though not like new, it was much cleaner than a stock engine with all the sludge being recirculated.
After removing all the EPA crap the engine runs much cleaner inside - last oil change (after 3000 miles), you could still see through the oil. Though not like new, it was much cleaner than a stock engine with all the sludge being recirculated.
What did you use to plug the heads? I'll be getting rid of my SAI soon but I don't know thread size or pitch to plug the heads.
I found some big/short Allen Head "Set-Screws" ant the Hardware Store - Tapped the holes and screwed them in with a liberal amount of Red Locktite. Not sure if the Locktite will hold up to the head temps, but so-far all is well.
Fuck it. I just shot an e-mail off to see how much it would cost to have a billet 4.0 Rover V8 block made.
Anyone care to place a bet on whether or not they'll respond? How about the cost; any guesses?
Sometimes it's not too bad. Sometimes it's horribly expensive. It's impossible to tell where it will land.
Cheers,
Kennith
Heh.
"Unfortunately at this time, we would not be able to take this project."
Well, that's illustrative. That's literally all the response said.
Thanks, LSM. Whatever... They had bad reviews for service anyway. NEXT!
I'm going to rebuild mine with the fancy sleeves and all, but still... Nothing says I can't have something else as a long-term build, so long as the primary engine is fine.
EDIT: CN Blocks is down for the count, as well. Pussies.
I'll keep going until I find someone.
Cheers,
Kennith
Last edited:
So I need to work on all three major components: Engine, transmission (well torque converter and flex plate), and t-case. Should I try to pull all three while connected as one piece, or drop the t-case, then transmission, then pick the engine?
What do you need to do on the transmission? Just the flex plate, right? If so.. leave it in. Not sure what else you can do on a transmission to be honest. There is a gasket and bearing overhaul kit, but they're very expensive. I've never touched the innards of the transmission.. nor have I really heard of anyone rebuilding one. As long as the oil is changed and it's clean, they're supposed to last the life of the vehicle
Assuming you just have a basic engine hoist and tranny jack, I'd pull out the engine and transfer case separately