Advice for work to do while the engine is out

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't replacing the sleeves require hot-pressing out the old sleeves and hot-pressing in the new sleeves? Doesn't sound like a in-the-garage process.

Why would pinning be a waste of time? Are you saying the pin does not prevent slippage?

Liner slipping is not really an issue with these engines. It was a problem in older blocks.. the 3.9 and before IIRC. The 4.0/4.6 has improved seats at the bottom of the bore so the liner can't move downwards. I think I read this in the "How to power tune rover v8 engines" book

The real problem with these 4.0/4.6 blocks is getting too hot, and causing the already thin water jacket walls between the bores to crack, allowing coolant into the crankcase and into the combustion changer. The flanged liner, with o-rings at the bottom, theoretically allow a cracked block to continue working just fine, as the flanged lip at the top prevents coolant getting past the head gasket, and the o-ring at the bottom prevents it going into the crankcase. There are other benefits but I can't remember them off the top of my head

Anyway, not a DIY job. You can mail your block to Q&E in LA, and they will put the liners in for you, for $1500.
 

rovercanus

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
9,650
246
if you've got the block out, pinning the sleeves is a waste of time, get flanged sleeves, or you'll just regret it later when your block goes..
Bull shit. Look at all of the shit flanged liners from Atlantic British. If your block is fucked, it's fucked. Flanged liners won't make a difference.
 

Swedjen2

Well-known member
Sep 12, 2018
594
127
California
The pin does not prevent seepage caused by 18 years of corrosion between the steel liner and aluminum casting.
See below for an informative read:

 

pdogg

Well-known member
Jul 18, 2005
1,216
29
Phoenix, AZ
Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't replacing the sleeves require hot-pressing out the old sleeves and hot-pressing in the new sleeves? Doesn't sound like a in-the-garage process.

Why would pinning be a waste of time? Are you saying the pin does not prevent slippage?

Yes, it's a machine shop thing.. I don't think liner slipping is the major factor plaguing these engines outside of 03s and 04s... porous blocks are now becoming the issue, with the age of these engines... If you're pulling it, may as well rebuild it correctly.. but I get it may not be in the budget..
 

pdogg

Well-known member
Jul 18, 2005
1,216
29
Phoenix, AZ
Bull shit. Look at all of the shit flanged liners from Atlantic British. If your block is fucked, it's fucked. Flanged liners won't make a difference.

Because AB is selling crap rebuilds, therefore rebuilding a bad block with flanged liners is not feasible? how do you explain my cracked block that I had repaired, re-lined at B&B?
 

Swedjen2

Well-known member
Sep 12, 2018
594
127
California
Turner does Turner. AB buys their used blocks from ???!?!?.
ACR is another Brit outfit like Turner. They have some interesting engines and options. GBR Utah uses their engines for swap outs and have for 20 years.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
I've been in contact with a few builders.

RPI: Doesn't dyno their engines. They can say what they like, but if you can't even tell me where your peaks are... They have no fucking clue what they're building. All they can tell me is that their stuff has electrolytes, because it's what plants crave. If you're from RPI, reading this, and intend to state otherwise, think twice and quit while you're behind. You had every chance to answer grade-school questions, and you couldn't. You fail.

Turner: Great reputation, but failed the test of "if you read this sentence, note that you have in your reply" when I presented the rest of my requirements and why they exist after the initial e-mail. I called, and ended up with a nice lady on the phone who was aware of the e-mail, and suggested she'd have someone get back to me. It hasn't happened yet. Time zones, and all... They've got another couple of days, to be fair, but I did say it's fine to call whenever they like. I'm hoping they get back to me, and it was just a matter of handling things on the phone for more efficiency, but I'd have appreciated it if they actually read the e-mail.

I just sent ACR the same e-mail Turner got in the past few minutes. We'll see...

If you're claiming to be a performance engine builder of production capacity, you'd better fucking dyno your offerings at least once to have a decent idea of where they land. You don't have to do them all, but you'd better at least do one. If you can't be bothered, you're no better than I am at the task, and that means you're not worth paying.

There are no exceptions, regardless of reputation.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Fuck it. May as well ask you guys one of my questions:

Is it possible to build a 4.0 Bosch in one of those nicer, factory selected 4.6 blocks with the extra meat around the liners?

Less heat, more meat. Bad on a grill, great in an engine.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Fuck it. May as well ask you guys one of my questions:

Is it possible to build a 4.0 Bosch in one of those nicer, factory selected 4.6 blocks with the extra meat around the liners?

Less heat, more meat. Bad on a grill, great in an engine.

Cheers,

Kennith
Of course, they're the same block. Not all 4.6's had the thicker walls. The only proof was a red dab of paint on the inner valley pan... but it's probably long gone. I think the P38's got the majority of the 'red grade' blocks
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
Of course, they're the same block. Not all 4.6's had the thicker walls. The only proof was a red dab of paint on the inner valley pan... but it's probably long gone. I think the P38's got the majority of the 'red grade' blocks

Yeah, I didn't know if something changed around the bearings that would require extra work to make it happen. I read something about that the other day that confused me and made me question my previous understanding.

One of those red blocks is what I'd be after. I had one in the past, actually. Of course, I'd prefer to buy a new one, but they don't seem to exist anymore. I'll bet there are a few out there somewhere, but the odds of finding one in a timely manner are very slim.

I want:

Bullet. Fucking. Proof. Short of having a billet block made from scratch, I want the absolute best I can get; but I do want to under-stress a block Rover thought was good enough for the improved output of the 4.6.

Cheers,

Kennith