All in One Brake Kit

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,927
201
Lake Villa, IL
For those that have gone to 110 fronts, did you use the retainer clips that came with the pads and lock against the pins or use the springs over the pins like in the original setup? Does it even matter?
Use both.??
The springs are so weak it's hard to believe they do much of anything.
 

Chuckwagon976

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2013
142
7
Ft. Worth, Texas
I think the retainer clips are mainly to keep the pads from rattling around and the springs are to keep the pads from riding the rotor when not braking. Those springs are the old ones from the D1 setup and your right, completely worthless. I have some new spring ordered so we will see if they are improved. It looks like if you use both, the tension from the retainer would hold the pads in place against the pin more firmly than the strength of the spring has to force them out.
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,754
561
Seattle
Will Tillery here sells a D90 kit for front. Pretty simple new calipers and rotors. Done
Not quite that simple. Disco 1 front brake pipes aren't configured for a direct swap to the D90/110 calipers. In addition to calipers and rotors, you also need to adapt the brake pipes. There is more than one way to do this, none of which is complicated. On my D110 caliper install I had my local indie Rover shop make me up new pipes with new fittings. Since I was going to the trouble of replacing 18-year old factory parts, I figured why not also do these at the same time. Overall it's still a simple upgrade, but people considering it should keep this step in mind as part of the process.
 

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
15,617
837
58
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
Not quite that simple. Disco 1 front brake pipes aren't configured for a direct swap to the D90/110 calipers. In addition to calipers and rotors, you also need to adapt the brake pipes. There is more than one way to do this, none of which is complicated. On my D110 caliper install I had my local indie Rover shop make me up new pipes with new fittings. Since I was going to the trouble of replacing 18-year old factory parts, I figured why not also do these at the same time. Overall it's still a simple upgrade, but people considering it should keep this step in mind as part of the process.
What he said.
However, the hard short brake line in question is easy - IIRC, I found a 6" or 7" brake pipe with 10x1mm ends, and bent it to fit.
The 110 front brake calipers are larger than D1's, so the brake pedal will have a bit of extra travel before the brakes bite.
 

Greg_M

Well-known member
Dec 27, 2021
224
100
Vancouver Island
What he said.
However, the hard short brake line in question is easy - IIRC, I found a 6" or 7" brake pipe with 10x1mm ends, and bent it to fit.
The 110 front brake calipers are larger than D1's, so the brake pedal will have a bit of extra travel before the brakes bite.
Is there a D1 compatible MC with more volume that makes sense to swap in?
 

terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
1,485
375
Repeating/rephrasing, you do need the D90 hard lines/pipes for the calipers. i was able to buy genuine LR hard lines the last time I did this swap. First time I didn’t know the LR hard lines were available so I used off the shelf auto parts store lines and hand bent them. The hand bent ones work great but the genuine pre-bent ones are obviously easier and much to my surprise a few dollars less. Well, that was the case a couple years ago.

I wish I still had the part numbers for the hard lines as I now have another D1 I plan to do the upgrade on.

Also, I wouldn’t bother with a higher volume MC. The difference in pedal travel is not much.
 
Last edited:

terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
1,485
375
Just checked, not LR genuine but pre-bent and just a little more costly than auto parts store straight lines.

The pipes/lines are in stock at Rovers North.
 

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