Anyone can change brakes.

[landrovered]

I usually kill a chicken and then look at the pattern of the blood on the hood of the vehicle that needs repair. It tells me everything I need to know.

Seriously, this guy is stroking his own ego because he wants everyone to know that he thinks he is smarter than everyone else and should be held up as a standard. I say BS, any mechanic worth his or her salts will diagnose a problem thoroughly and give all of the possible cuases a good looking into.

Parts changers are parts changers, but in my personal mechanic work I am a more of the mindset of a scientist/engineer than a grease monkey.

BFD, go get a cookie brake dude!

 

[Blue]

that mechanic is a douche bag.

 

[Chris-St Louis]

Yeah, he is kind of a ego trip fella, but he is quite good. Sadly, there are too many guys on a repair shop payroll that arent as though, which is sad for the customer and the trade as a whole.

 

[Two Cold Soakers]

Thanks!

 

[az_max]

By the book, the threads shoudl be clean other then oil when required by the manual. The theory is, that a big gloob of anti-seeze will give a incorrect reading, I have never experianced this.



Mostly over. But, haveing one half tourqed andthe other not, can and has caused warping. Most cars are rated at 100lbs per lug nut, when a guy hammers it with his 500lb air wrnch, it can, and has warped rotors. That was a small kia, IFRC, Land Rovers are alomst impossible to warp in this manner.

Because of the sheer size of the contact area between the rover's lug nuts and rims, I *always* use anti-seize. But just like bryllcreem, a little dab'll do ya. when I first got the truck, the lugs were so corroded on there I thought I was going to twist the studs off with the impact wrench.

 

[Chris-St Louis]

Rover actaully had a TSb telling dealer techs to have a small amount of anit-seize on the studs and mounting area of the tires to avoid corrosion.

 

[antichrist]

1. How does anti-seize encourage over-tourquing?

Torque values for a given bolt size are generally based on dry threads. Your torque reading, in this case, is a combination of resistance to turning and clamping force on the wheel (and thread distortion). There is more resistance to turning and more clamping force at 200 ft/lbs than there is at 100ft/lbs.
Lubricated threads offer less resistance to turning so you get more clamping force at a given torque.

That's probably not very clear, hopefully you get the idea.

FWIW I've always use Never-Seeze on wheel studs.

 

[landrovered]

Anti-sieze is my friend. I use it all the time on my rover.

I always hand torque my lugs after a stupid dumbass local shop cranked my lugs on so tight that I broke a lug wrench jumping on it on the side of the road trying to change a tire.

Needless to say I don't go to that tire shop any more and I personally supervise the guys at the shop i go to now. They don't seem to mind since "I use my vehicles off road".

 

[Two Cold Soakers]

Torque values for a given bolt size are generally based on dry threads. Your torque reading, in this case, is a combination of resistance to turning and clamping force on the wheel (and thread distortion). There is more resistance to turning and more clamping force at 200 ft/lbs than there is at 100ft/lbs.
Lubricated threads offer less resistance to turning so you get more clamping force at a given torque.

That's probably not very clear, hopefully you get the idea.

FWIW I've always use Never-Seeze on wheel studs.

Clear as day.

Makes perfect sense, with the powdered-paste of the anti-seize in the threads offering microscopic "cushion and clamping" at various points of the surface, torque values may vary with tempeture, movement, age, etc. Like a tiny patch of ice on pavement.
Thanks for the explaination.

I use anti-seize on just about anything I expect to have to remove in 2 seasons or more. With this new info, I'll just be a bit more judicious in its application.

Thanks Tom,
Thanks Chris,
Hi- jack over.

:applause:

 

[Blue]

Because of the sheer size of the contact area between the rover's lug nuts and rims, I *always* use anti-seize. But just like bryllcreem, a little dab'll do ya. when I first got the truck, the lugs were so corroded on there I thought I was going to twist the studs off with the impact wrench.

I've never had a problem with the lugs (I clean them each time I have them off) but I did have a wheel stuck on the hub a few weeks ago due to corrosion. I had to beat it from the inside out with a BFH and a 2x4. Didn't put any anti-seize on it, just cleaned it up real good. We'll see how it goes.

 

[adriatic04]

I've never had a problem with the lugs (I clean them each time I have them off) but I did have a wheel stuck on the hub a few weeks ago due to corrosion. I had to beat it from the inside out with a BFH and a 2x4. Didn't put any anti-seize on it, just cleaned it up real good. We'll see how it goes.

which wheel was it? the passenger rear on my 04 is a son of a bitch, every time. ive cleaned it, cleared the corrosion, whatever, thing still sticks, always takes me kicking and hitting it like hell.

 

[Blue]

which wheel was it? the passenger rear on my 04 is a son of a bitch, every time. ive cleaned it, cleared the corrosion, whatever, thing still sticks, always takes me kicking and hitting it like hell.

This last time it was the driver's rear and I don't recall which one it was the time before that. The time before I was able to kick it off but not last time. I wire brushed it and soaked it in WD-40, then wiped it clean and even used a dremel with a wire brush attachment. Left a film of WD on there when I put the wheel back on too. If I had been on the side of the highway changing a flat I would have had a hell of a time with it. Corrosion is not much of a problem out here in AZ but this truck spent it's first 4 years in NJ. I had gladly forgotten what the conditions out east do to vehicles....