Anyone have a review for the Atlantic British long or short block engines?

4Runner

Well-known member
May 24, 2007
660
110
Boise Idaho
I was really using the word “performance “as kind of a general statement.
To spend 5k to 8k for a new motor to
A- not be able to overtake a newer 4cyl. Honda Accord sucks.
B- not get more than 14/15mpg while also not doing A also sucks.
If the engine cost was around 2k to 4K than I would expect to have to put up with A and B. Apparently the EPA is against me doing anything to get 20mpg or more, so there is that. I love Rovers and also agree that if you going to build HP, it’s always better in a car. I just find the Rover engine to be the most frustrating part of ownership. I haven’t owned anything newer than a D2, so I can only hope that it has gotten better.
 

Knightspirit

Well-known member
Sep 22, 2019
251
84
Mount Shasta, CA
I have had this conversation with an LR mechanic - and he highly recommended just swapping in the Atlantic British rebuilt motor. Easy, has a 3 year warranty and everything will just work. He said he stopped rebuilding for clients and just orders them from AB. He didn't recommend the LS conversion due to cost and complexity - but sounds like it could be done pretty cheaply with a used motor. Simple things get left out on conversions and you inevitably end up having to do things you didn't expect - goes with the territory. If I could afford to do it right now - I would get the 4.6 long block from AB and put that in my Disco 1. Having the 4.0 - I think I would have to eat the core charge - which makes it even more expensive.

I have another possibly usable 4.0 that I could rebuild - but not sure that is really the way to go either.
 

Blueboy

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,205
459
Back in the USA; Rockwood, PA
What are your thoughts on the RPI 4.6? Also, since it’s in a 14cux truck, did you change anything besides the motor? (Ecu, injectors etc)
Awesome engine. Fully loaded Rangie has power. Changed the chip and used a Tornado. ECU same. Everything else came over from the 4.2 although bought a long block. Recently has been freshened by ECR and later Congelton. Very satisfied.

50A9ABC2-0B86-429A-8261-8C23BAC9E466.jpeg
 

uglysteve

Well-known member
Mar 19, 2006
94
8
Arizona
Also the main reason I replaced the engine in the Rangie is the body/frame etc are in great shape. Same for the D1. Make sure the body etc. is worth saving or just start over with a rust free Rover.
My Disco is rust free, I live in Arizona. The only problem with the body is sun baked clear coat and plastic trim, and that is not a problem. It gives me the freedom to drive off road and not care if I scratch the paint, like when it was new.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Blueboy

uglysteve

Well-known member
Mar 19, 2006
94
8
Arizona
I was really using the word “performance “as kind of a general statement.
To spend 5k to 8k for a new motor to
A- not be able to overtake a newer 4cyl. Honda Accord sucks.
B- not get more than 14/15mpg while also not doing A also sucks.
If the engine cost was around 2k to 4K than I would expect to have to put up with A and B. Apparently the EPA is against me doing anything to get 20mpg or more, so there is that. I love Rovers and also agree that if you going to build HP, it’s always better in a car. I just find the Rover engine to be the most frustrating part of ownership. I haven’t owned anything newer than a D2, so I can only hope that it has gotten better.
I don't have a problem with the power of the 4.6. I can pull a 1500 pound trailer uphill and maintain speed at 65mph.
I don't feel the need to race in the Disco. For that I have other cars.
I just want a reliable motor that I don't have to worry about. I'm fine with the 12 mpg, it's not my daily driver. I just use it off road, and for towing.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Spark6

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,754
562
Seattle
I haven’t owned anything newer than a D2, so I can only hope that it has gotten better.

Last fall I bought an LR3. I didn't have high hopes. I was skeptical. This vehicle has impressed me every step of the way. I'm a convert. The reliability has been superb and the 4.4 is a fantastic engine. I drove 11,500 miles with 1,000 pounds of stuff in it. Went like a champ. But if I had to sell one of my Rovers, that would be it. I'll keep my D1 for as long as I can.
 

4Runner

Well-known member
May 24, 2007
660
110
Boise Idaho
That’s good to hear. I feel the same about the D1. I guess I am just working thru the frustration period I seem to have when I first by a Rover. I probably should have passed on the D2 but it was wandering around the neighborhood ( barely) looking for a new home. My kids were like “ can we keep it?” And here we are. lol.
 

uglysteve

Well-known member
Mar 19, 2006
94
8
Arizona
THat's great - please update this thread when you get it and it's in your truck! I'd love to hear what you think. Would also like to hear what the final cost was. Did you get the 4.0 or the 4.6?
With shipping and core charges it was about $9100, for a 4.6 long block. 6 week build time.
 
Last edited:

uglysteve

Well-known member
Mar 19, 2006
94
8
Arizona
If you want more serious info on a swap there's a group on Facebook called LS swapped Land Rovers. You may want to try Facebook for this.
Thanks, I'm just going to keep the Rover V8. I just need to be able to replace the engine in a long weekend. I don't have the time for all the extra modifications what come with that type of modifications.
 

Swedjen2

Well-known member
Sep 12, 2018
594
127
California
Thanks, I'm just going to keep the Rover V8. I just need to be able to replace the engine in a long weekend. I don't have the time for all the extra modifications what come with that type of modifications.
At least get them to install a Crower cam while they're at it. Sounds like there is plenty of time. I have a wedge shop cam in mine. less than impressed, unless it has something to do with the 17+mpg I get at 65. OTOH, the idle could be smoother and throws misfire codes that disappear with higher idle. Rolling on 265/75-16's.

For that price, I would've bought a Turner. Buy once, cry once.
 
Last edited:

uglysteve

Well-known member
Mar 19, 2006
94
8
Arizona
Turner had nothing available for export sale, just exchange. I contacted them first. The Wedge shop never returned my call. So I ordered from Atlantic British. I am happy with stock performance, though with the bigger tires I notice acceleration is slower. After the engine is installed, I am considering air lockers, heavy duty axle shafts, and lower gears.
That is a project for another day.

Started working on engine removal. The oil filter is full of metal.

oil filter (1).jpg
 
Last edited:

Swedjen2

Well-known member
Sep 12, 2018
594
127
California
Turner had nothing available for export sale, just exchange. I contacted them first. The Wedge shop never returned my call. So I ordered from Atlantic British. eI am happy with stock performance, though with the bigger tires I notice acceleration is slower. After the engine is installed, I am considering air lockers, heavy duty axle shafts, and lower gears.
That is a project for another day.

Started working on engine removal. The oil filter is full of metal.

View attachment 61846
I've called the Wedge shop several times. they have never answered me either.
 
  • Like
Reactions: uglysteve

4Runner

Well-known member
May 24, 2007
660
110
Boise Idaho
Same here. I wonder what’s going on with them. I have purchased from them in the last year with good results also from D and D. But it’s true, I haven’t been able to get a call back from them since that hurricane went thru there. I am sure you will be happy AB choice when it shows up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: uglysteve

uglysteve

Well-known member
Mar 19, 2006
94
8
Arizona
Got the engine stripped of accessories, wires, hoses, and manifolds this week. Just need to seperate from the transmission and pull it out.

stripped.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Spark6

uglysteve

Well-known member
Mar 19, 2006
94
8
Arizona
I'm trying to get the engine separated from the bell housing. It seems to be stuck on the dowel pins. I believe I have all the bolts out, 8 on the bottom, and 4 on top. I can get a little separation on the bottom, but the top is tight. I have ratchet straps pulling the engine forward, and transmission backwards. I cant get it apart. I can't see a good spot on top to pry, I don't want to break anything. Any advice?
Thanks,
Steve
 

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,899
450
Darien Gap
I'm trying to get the engine separated from the bell housing. It seems to be stuck on the dowel pins. I believe I have all the bolts out, 8 on the bottom, and 4 on top. I can get a little separation on the bottom, but the top is tight. I have ratchet straps pulling the engine forward, and transmission backwards. I cant get it apart. I can't see a good spot on top to pry, I don't want to break anything. Any advice?
Thanks,
Steve

It may be that you're pulling in a way that the bottom is receiving more pulling force. Try pulling from the top too. Dowels don't like to come out any direction other than straight. At the mating area, you could try nudging it up from the bottom too, which would close the bottom and may work the top open.