The Directions I had with mine stated 100ft/lbs in 3 stages. Did 33-33-34. So far no issues.
Current Directions - Looks like they did revise - will have to look and see if I still have the one I used
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ARP Head stud kits
- Thread starter terryjm1
- Start date
The Directions I had with mine stated 100ft/lbs in 3 stages. Did 33-33-34. So far no issues.
Current Directions - Looks like they did revise - will have to look and see if I still have the one I used
I used arp studs with arp lube and factory head head gasket. I followed arp instructions that came in the box I believe they were 75 or 85 Can’t remember. I used a Snapon dial torque wrench which is +-2% pretty precise. I achieved torque at 10ft/lb increments passed 40ft/lb. Anyway I will say that I crept on on the torque spec as it felt like I was dancing with danger. I can see how people pulled threads out. I would have like to use the cometic mls gaskets but my machine shop milled for conventional gaskets. Also availability at the time. MLS require a finer finish and both head and block have to be perfectly flat for a proper seal. So distortion in torque sequence can affect results.
Recently, like 3 weeks ago, my shop finally found the head gasket leak the engine has had for the last 10K since a rebuild by P.O. who used ARP stud kit per D&D advice. Top Hat Block done by D & D, sad to say. Locating pins were too long preventing head from being clamped correctly. In addition, the front D.S. block stud thread was stripped and had a heli-coil. I had a shop redo the P.O. mistakes and install a keenesert, instead of a junk heli-coil.
The shop has used stretch bolts for every Rover V8 head gasket job for the last 25 years, never had a come back for a bad stretch bolt-not yet anyway.
Tech didn't like studs - harder to remove and install the heads since they stick up
If you get a block from D & D, check the locating pin length....or from anyone for that matter. My heads had been surfaced, but weren't out of spec.
Tech said he thought the D.S. nuts were on the loose side when he was removing the hardware.
Stretch bolts and Elring gasket set...Bob's your uncle.
The shop has used stretch bolts for every Rover V8 head gasket job for the last 25 years, never had a come back for a bad stretch bolt-not yet anyway.
Tech didn't like studs - harder to remove and install the heads since they stick up
If you get a block from D & D, check the locating pin length....or from anyone for that matter. My heads had been surfaced, but weren't out of spec.
Tech said he thought the D.S. nuts were on the loose side when he was removing the hardware.
Stretch bolts and Elring gasket set...Bob's your uncle.
FWIW I had my mechanic replace my headgaskets a few weeks back (Disco 2 4.0 Thor V8) - I spec'd Elring headgaskets and the ARP head stud kit, ensuring that he was aware of the revised 70lb/ft max tightening requirement.... So far so good, and tbh if I get a head gasket problem within the next 2-3 years I'll be pretty peeved!
If that's what it sounded like, I did not intend to blame ARP studs for the alignment pins being too long.
Either the P.O. or D & D.
P.O. is/was a motorcycle mechanic, so he should have known better.
Reusing a gasket or o-ring is like reusing a condom.
In that case, I'd rather not use a gasket.
Personal truck stop experience?Reusing a gasket or o-ring is like reusing a condom.
Or turn it inside out.you CAN re-use a condom, you just have to shake the fuck out of it....
