Broken crank with a conversion to manual transmission

glester

Well-known member
Jul 11, 2017
91
0
Seattle
Very nice!
If you keep automatic gearbox oil cooler, could you connect it instead oil bypass on R380. In similar shape as manual TD5 Discos

You should not forget screen ESR2422 attached to inlet manifold

Regards
Would need something to pump the gearbox oil through the cooler though right? Is there an issue with the R380 oil temp that I'm not aware of that would benefit from using the oil cooler?
 

Leadvagas

Well-known member
Jun 10, 2010
225
1
Leadville CO
The R380 has a built in pump, you will need the oil pump to cooler part that replaces the bypass on the trans, as set of cooler lines and the frame mounted cooler for the atuomatic. The R380 can run hot. The cooler lines and the part for the trans all seems to be made of unicorn scrotum. I have not been able to source new lines for mine, so it’s going to be AN fittings and braided line on mine. The other mistery is how do you know when the lines and cooler are full? I run mine park it nose down on a slight incline and check the trans, fill to the fill hole.
 
Coupler FTC2687 is the Unicorn scrotum part, haha! To replace bypass...

And "specific" coupling hoses/tubes are TRP1000 and UBP500260

You need 3,1 liter of MTF94 when dry, and 2,6 liters for refill.
You should fill it, and after a few minutes of engine running you get more space to top it.

... or you can forget it all, and continue your work:bigok:

Regards
 

glester

Well-known member
Jul 11, 2017
91
0
Seattle
Coupler FTC2687 is the Unicorn scrotum part, haha! To replace bypass...

And "specific" coupling hoses/tubes are TRP1000 and UBP500260

You need 3,1 liter of MTF94 when dry, and 2,6 liters for refill.
You should fill it, and after a few minutes of engine running you get more space to top it.

... or you can forget it all, and continue your work:bigok:

Regards
Yeah, that unicorn piece is like $800-$900...yikes. I think I'll continue without running it through the oil cooler...take the cooler and lines out and be done with it. A replacement R380 is not much more than that part. LOL
 

glester

Well-known member
Jul 11, 2017
91
0
Seattle
Just finished the work and she's all put back together. Here's all that was done. I'm probably missing a few things on this list as there was a lot:

- Pulled engine, auto transmission and transfer box
- Cleaned everything (engine, transmission, under truck and in engine bay)
- Replaced crank
- Installed R380 manual transmission
- Replaced transfer box with the one that came with the transmission (almost identical in gearing to the one I had in the truck)
- Had flywheel resurfaced
- New clutch kit
- New crank pulley and damper
- New fan pulley
- New timing belt
- New water pump
- Timed engine
- Timed valves
- All new gaskets along the way
- New clutch release guide
- Replaced pedal box (LHD pedal box for 5-speed D1 - luckily found one)
- Replaced brake servo and vacuum line to vacuum pump
- Replaced clutch master cylinder
- New clutch slave and custom made soft line
- Replaced center console with one that had cutout for 5-speed lever
- Installed Syncroworks slickshift
- New fuel filter and oil filter
- Removed transmission cooler and lines
- Greased propshafts
- New fluids of course (oil, coolant, MTL, 90w)


There were a few things to learn along the way:

- Couldn't get the engine the starter going and found that we needed to pull the park/neutral position switch from the auto transmission and modify the switch plug to always close the circuit; allowing the car to start. Thought for a moment it would be cool to run it to a switch in the cabin to use as a safety feature that would only allow the car to start if the switch was on.

- Need to find some sort of foam or other dampening for the 5-speed shifter hole in the center console. I have the boot for the lever but not the gaiter that goes under it or any other foam. So it's considerably noisier at the moment.

- Seem to have not taken enough care in replacing the rear main seal or I should have replaced the t-seals...as there is a leak through the wading plug hole at the base of the bell housing. (https://discoweb.org/showthread.php?p=1076661) I'll have to go back in to figure that out.

- Had to pull off and retighten the plate on the back of the transfer case as it was leaking after install (seems to be good now)

- Speedometer wasn't working initially and just hadn't plugged into the speed sensor in the transfer box

- Fuel lines were a bit loose (to and from the pump) and upon first startup engine would turn over but wouldn't start. Tightened those fuel lines and then loosened the fuel line into the engine at cylinder 1 until fuel was clearly coming out and then re-tightened.

- Getting the pin in and clip on for clutch master cylinder to clutch pedal is a pain unless you loosen the master cylinder from the pedal box. I learned this the hard way.
 

nickhand

Member
Jan 18, 2018
13
0
Oklahoma
"Removed transmission cooler and lines"
I was reading through the list of things you did and read the above. Are you running with no cooler now? If so what did you do at the transmission?
 

glester

Well-known member
Jul 11, 2017
91
0
Seattle
"Removed transmission cooler and lines"
I was reading through the list of things you did and read the above. Are you running with no cooler now? If so what did you do at the transmission?
Running without a cooler, which is standard for this configuration. I think starting with the TD5 they ran with oil coolers with the manual transmission. See post #15 and then #22-25 in this thread.