Hello I have finally reached the first of the really scary (to me) part of dismantling my project english muffin (72 "88) I have reached the bulkhead removal stage and getting all of the mechanical stuff that is not on the engine disconnected- how should I proceed? should I leave all of that stuff on the bulkhead just disconnect from the motor or take everything off? is there a secret to the big ass bolts connecting the bulkhead to the chassis?
bulkhead removal etc
- Thread starter Alexa
- Start date
If you don't need to remove the stuff from the bulkhead, then why do it? Me, I sent my bulkhead to the sandblasters then had it galvanized, so all of that had to come off. But if you're doing a chassis-swap, and you're not going for a restoration where you have to paint under where the things like the heater and the pedal assemblies are, then leave them in place. (But if you're replacing footwells, take them off too......)
Use a sawz-all to get the big bolts at the bottom, you'll never get 'em loose....
-L
Use a sawz-all to get the big bolts at the bottom, you'll never get 'em loose....
-L
If you do not have to do much work on the bulkhead I would take it off as one unit.
There are at least 8 bolts holding it to the chassis. The two big ones in the ends of the outriggers and the 6, three on each side, holding the steering box and analagous bracket to the chassis.
Ron
There are at least 8 bolts holding it to the chassis. The two big ones in the ends of the outriggers and the 6, three on each side, holding the steering box and analagous bracket to the chassis.
Ron
Thanks for the advice, I do think I will replace the foot wells as the previous owner put in steel panels. I guess Im most nervous about not knowing where to put stuff back even with the shop manual so the photo idea is a good one. I shall whip out the trusty sawsall!!
L
LMRW
Guest
if you can find a copy of last months LAND ROVER MONTHLY magizne , september edition there is a article in there that covers removing the bulk head in detail.
Bulkhead removal
In addition to taking photos......I also found it much helpful in using a note pad and making some crude drawings noting where parts, wiring and such go.
Plastic storage boxes that can be bought at Wally-world and the like make handy cheep bins for keeping parts organized and out form under foot.
Dave
In addition to taking photos......I also found it much helpful in using a note pad and making some crude drawings noting where parts, wiring and such go.
Plastic storage boxes that can be bought at Wally-world and the like make handy cheep bins for keeping parts organized and out form under foot.
Dave
S
smenzel
Guest
Some really good advice here.
If you're going to remove everything from the firewall, then you should seriously consider galvanizing. Doing so will remove all possibility of rust for years and years and years.
If you're planning to galvanize, you might consider acid dipping instead of sand blasting. The former leaves the metal smooth whereas the latter gives the metal some texture. This makes for a very different look on the finished product.
If you're going to remove everything from the firewall, then you should seriously consider galvanizing. Doing so will remove all possibility of rust for years and years and years.
If you're planning to galvanize, you might consider acid dipping instead of sand blasting. The former leaves the metal smooth whereas the latter gives the metal some texture. This makes for a very different look on the finished product.