bump stops

kade

kade

Well-known member
Oct 15, 2013
235
7
Upstate, SC
Hey guys I know there is info somewhere on the site that would probably give me what I need to know but hoping I can get a quick idea

I have a d1 with somewhere around two inches of lift and have 235/85's on the truck.

The front tires are fine but the rear on driver side rub the wheel arches(I think that's where its rubbing seeing that I've torn the fenders to hell to made sure they cleared.) at full flex.

What size bump stops should I put on rear to eliminate this problem and try to not ruin my new tires anymore than they are.

Also what is a decent brand that wont cost me a lot? I don't wheel that much so wearing them out isn't a big concern right now.

Thanks
 
kade

kade

Well-known member
Oct 15, 2013
235
7
Upstate, SC
I did a small camel and it wasn't enough for full flex. fucked my fenders up bad, so I just pulled them way out( looks horrible) that's not where its rubbing tho its way up in there. I have fj coils in the rear, maybe too soft?
 
fishEH

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,929
203
Lake Villa, IL
Just trim a little more. Flex your truck on some ramps. Stick one at opposite corners and drive up. Should tell you where you'll rub.
Are you running wheel spacers or aftermarket wheels? You should only need a mild Camel Cut to clear 235/85/16's.
 
1920SF

1920SF

Well-known member
Jan 6, 2007
2,705
1
NoVA
I had prob a 1.75" lift with 235/85's and no issues once a good camel cut was done so that's a bit odd. Would suggest making sure your springs aren't sagging or what have you (esp if you're running FJ springs).

May be best to throw $ at the suspension setup vice bumpstops.

If/when you do need bumpstops (I changed mine when I went to 3" and 255/85's) just get some poly performance bolt ons and use the existing plates and such.
r-
Ray
 
kade

kade

Well-known member
Oct 15, 2013
235
7
Upstate, SC
Fisheh I did that with the ramps when I was doing cut. I'm telling u they stuff way up in there. Factory wheels and spacing. Maybe the tires are a bit taller. They are retreads. I don't want to change the springs again I had enough trouble the first go At it. 1920 that sounds like a plan. I'll put em on and see if I can't get it to chill.

It's only at what seems like full flex I'm gonna cut the remaining fenders anyways as well from where I trashed em
 
kade

kade

Well-known member
Oct 15, 2013
235
7
Upstate, SC
p m said:
Retreads are indeed taller. You can make yourself simple adapters from 3" wide 1/4" flat stock and use these - http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-9104G-Bump-Stop/dp/B000CNB5OU/

Keep in mind that under compression these bumpstops squish down to about 2.5" - so don't be put off by their uncompressed height. I made a mistake of trying their shorter bumpstops - went with 4" or 4.5".
Click to expand...

Sorry but make the adapters how? Would it be better to buy ones that bolt on or would I save a lot by making adapters
 
fishEH

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,929
203
Lake Villa, IL
p m said:
Retreads are indeed taller. You can make yourself simple adapters from 3" wide 1/4" flat stock and use these - http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-9104G-Bump-Stop/dp/B000CNB5OU/

Keep in mind that under compression these bumpstops squish down to about 2.5" - so don't be put off by their uncompressed height. I made a mistake of trying their shorter bumpstops - went with 4" or 4.5".
Click to expand...

I would highly advise against those bumpstops. I had them and they lasted one day. IMO the gaps are too big and allow too much distortion which results in the poly ripping. I sent mine back to Amazon for a full refund.

I run these ones now with spacers. Spacers can be made from 2x4" box steel.
 
p m

p m

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Apr 19, 2004
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Brett, I beat the shit out of mine. And I had the same bumpstops on my old fullsize Cherokee, which I abused the hell out of - and not one broke or cracked.

Edit - I realized that your comment was for the specific size; I only used 4" ones, never broke one.

kade - it probably is a simplest adapter one can make. A flat strip of 3" wide stock, with three holes - two for the frame mounts, one for the bumpstop.
 
fishEH

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,929
203
Lake Villa, IL
p m said:
Brett, I beat the shit out of mine. And I had the same bumpstops on my old fullsize Cherokee, which I abused the hell out of - and not one broke or cracked.

Edit - I realized that your comment was for the specific size; I only used 4" ones, never broke one.

kade - it probably is a simplest adapter one can make. A flat strip of 3" wide stock, with three holes - two for the frame mounts, one for the bumpstop.
Click to expand...

I think I deleted the pic but both of them the poly ripped, so IDK.
For the adapter you can just use the stock bumpstop plate. Scrape the old rubber bump off the plate. Drill a hole in the plate and bolt on the new bumpstop.
 
1920SF

1920SF

Well-known member
Jan 6, 2007
2,705
1
NoVA
fishEH said:
I think I deleted the pic but both of them the poly ripped, so IDK.
For the adapter you can just use the stock bumpstop plate. Scrape the old rubber bump off the plate. Drill a hole in the plate and bolt on the new bumpstop.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I did and likely with the same bumpstops that you had earlier in the thread.

I still think I'd start with springs, changing out the backs is like a 20 min job.
r-
Ray
 
Buddy

Buddy

Well-known member
Nov 6, 2006
2,839
1
Central NC
The frame mounted bump stops are ok for street use or even vertical hits. But they are totally useless during articulation once your truck is lifted. I've tried all kinds including the daystar stinger bump cans. The stingers worked nice for straight on hits but once the truck was flexed out they would barely even tough the axle and the only thing limiting my upward movement were the springs and shocks. I finally switched to the shock mounted bump stops, which so far have worked well. This is more for lifted trucks that get wheeled than street trucks.
 
fishEH

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,929
203
Lake Villa, IL
Buddy said:
The frame mounted bump stops are ok for street use or even vertical hits. But they are totally useless during articulation once your truck is lifted. I've tried all kinds including the daystar stinger bump cans. The stingers worked nice for straight on hits but once the truck was flexed out they would barely even tough the axle and the only thing limiting my upward movement were the springs and shocks. I finally switched to the shock mounted bump stops, which so far have worked well. This is more for lifted trucks that get wheeled than street trucks.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's where I'm at now. I run the Eibach shock mounted bumpstops. But you have to have decent shocks for those, I wouldn't try in on Ranchos, TF, or ProComp shocks.

I don't think bumpstops are the OP's problem. A little more Camel Cut and he'd be fine.
 
MM3846

MM3846

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2014
1,221
161
LI, NY
The shock ones are a PITA to install, but they work good enough. I like Prothane branded poly stuff for bumps. It's too bad the shocks are run inside the coil in the front of these things, and the rear coils aren't captured well... The Prothane coil inserts rock. Best bump for the front in these things would be an air bump contacting the radius arms.

198508d1371578224t-coil-spring-inserts-bumper-prothane-2ring-dsc02487.jpg
 
disco_drum

disco_drum

Well-known member
Jan 27, 2006
1,992
14
41
Woodstock, GA
i have wheeled the hell out of my stock bump stops for 9 years. 4 inches of lift and 34" tires. I really don't understand all the fuss about bump stops.
 
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