CAD drawing for Rear Cargo Door panel?

[Jeff Blake]

I'm interested in getting a stainless steel panel fabbed for the rear cargo door and wondering if anyone has a CAD drawing for it? I've searched around and found mention of a Marc Olivares design - but they're from way back in '06-'08.
Thanks.

 

[stu454]

Olivares was noted for his rear door table.

For just a panel you can use the original piece as a template. Word is you'll want to use rubber washers to keep rattling to a minimum when you mount the new panel.

Columbia Rover also sells panels ready-to-go.

 

[robertf]

I went with Columbia rovers. It includes a machined spacer so the door handle surround sits flush

Their mounting hardware sucks. It was these blind swage rivet things that would be torture to ever disassemble. I used riv nuts, countersunk screws, and finish washers

 

[disco_drum]

FWIW i made my rear panel out of 3/8 plywood. It is awesome! I have a table that folds out, a machete, a fire extinguisher, and subs mounted in the panel. Its great and was perfect for my budget...CHEAP!

 

[fishEH]

I went with Columbia rovers. It includes a machined spacer so the door handle surround sits flush

Their mounting hardware sucks. It was these blind swage rivet things that would be torture to ever disassemble. I used riv nuts, countersunk screws, and finish washers

So much!!! Get a rivnut tool from Harbor freight, much more betterer.
I've made a couple panels. One from aluminum, one from 1/4" plywood. I used the old one as a template. Aluminum cuts like butter with an angle grinder and wood is easy to cut too.

 

[Tugela]

Jeff, your post is timely. I just purchased a sheet of 0.063" thickness aluminum to make my own door panel. It's going to have a fold-down table, storage pocket, mounting points for recovery gear, and - critically - a bottle opener. I have a custom steel shop a few blocks from my house so I'm going to see if they can do the cutting for me. Otherwise I have a buddy in Monroe with a plasma cutter (which sounds great except for the being in Monroe part).

I also plan to use threaded rivets, rubber washers, and machine screws for mounting. I plan to ditch the speaker from the rear door - it's heavy and the Disco isn't quite a Range Rover in terms of audio quality anyway. Some folks like the bare metal look, I'm considering tan paint to look closer to the stock trim. Drop me a private message if you want to compare notes or pool resources - I have a rivnut tool I'd be happy to let you use.

 

[Jeff Blake]

I was hoping for the CAD so I could do a made-to-order panel from an online metalworking shop. There are tons out there. Worst case I will order the rectangle panel made-to-order, and then jigsaw the piece out.

Was planning on going stainless steel 304 #4, any advantages/disadvantages over aluminum? What about using HDPE as the backing panel?

Good tip on rubber washers. Yes, planning to do the full-bodied rivnuts, not the crush type jack nuts.

Planning on doing HDPE board for the table, made to order (including rounded edges!) from Tapplastics.com

I've been seriously considering some sort of cabinet to go with it, to make up for all the empty space, to store kitchen stuff. But it complicates the design a lot.

Do you mean Columbia Overland? I did see theirs, but its sold out, and I also recently purchased the dual battery tray from them and have received bad service. Mostly poor communication (spoke with him before order, he thanked me for ordering) and then it didn't ship out for over 2 weeks. No mention of this to me. It wasn't powdercoated as advertised. Have no idea how its supposed to mount, the holes don't line up, and the headlight washer wires block the tray from sitting flush. And how does the battery top cover mount on the left side?? I asked Alex all these questions and he never got back to me. It just doesn't seem as well designed & executed from what I was expecting for a $200 tray.

There was also supposedly a publication of Marc Olivares table how-to in Overland Journal, but I can't find it anywhere.

 

[stu454]

There's a discussion here, as well. I think that Ben Little lead it. There's more to it than most folks realize. I'll see if it's saved in my Subscribed Threads folder.

This isn't it, but it may help.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/14365-Best-Land-Rover-Mod-Ever?referrerid=48169

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/50851-Fold-down-table-for-rear-door?referrerid=48169

 

[Jeff Blake]

Thanks for the links, I did come across those. I've gathered most my ideas so far from there. The big things I am toying with is how to gain some storage with this mod. Some ideas I had:

- Mount the table on a 1x3" strip of something to space the table away from the panel, so that a utensil rack could be built onto the door panel. Perhaps a velcro board with various loops. Use threaded spacers at the top so that the table can fasten in flush.
- Somehow put a molle panel on the underside of the table. I think this would require a rather custom aluminum frame... I'm not sure how to accomplish this.
- do a cutout on the door panel for the subwoofer hole. Can't fit much in there though.
- Built a more cabinet-like box, but I think it would look kind of silly having a big box on the door panel, even if it does utilize the dead space well.

Other than my desire to gain storage, I plan to follow the Marc Olivares design to the T. Maybe a compression type latch would be better than the threaded plastic knobs.

Any other ideas?

 

[stu454]

Be careful adding too much weight to that door. The hinges won't like it.

I wouldn't sweat storage too much; that's what the Pelican cases are for.

 

[fishEH]

Here's my aluminum one. I actually trimmed up the stock sub and mounted it IN the door completely behind the panel.
Also made a drop down shelf for cooking or whatever.





Nice and tight.


Aluminum is lighter than stainless, pretty sure. Otherwise SS is more blingy. Its definitely more expensive. I made my panel and shelf from old street signs!!

 

[nosivad_bor]

I have the cad file, i will have to search for it tomorrow

 

[1920SF]

Made mine from diamond plate, used the original as the template. Grabbed a fold down table from Pit Posse & the MOLLE stuff is from Springtail solutions. Rivnuts in the door to hold it in place.

 

[Jeff Blake]

I have the cad file, i will have to search for it tomorrow

Beauty!! That'll help me out a ton and make this project much easier.

FishEH - nice work. Great idea on the sub - how does it sound? No rattling? I want to keep mine, I had planned on relocating it to the side cargo bin area, but that sounds like a better idea.

I prefer a full length table though.

Did some work today and have the door prepped

Also planning a radical move to gut out the rear trim. I have a big electrical project in the works that will fit into one of the sides. Not sure yet how everything will be mounted and what panels I'll fab to go in their place. So much more cargo room!

 

[Maximumwarp]

on the sub - how does it sound? No rattling? I want to keep mine, I had planned on relocating it to the side cargo bin area, but that sounds like a better idea.

I would recommend the side cargo area, vertical firing. Make a box out of 5/8" MDF. I put two subs in the door and Dynamatted the living shit out of it, but I still get buzzes from the latch. And possibly somewhere else that I just can't figure out. Your sound quality would be infinitely better with the normal box built to the proper volume (if you can hear it over the noises the truck makes in the first place). I ditched my rear AC, so I'm toying with the idea of relocating mine to the void where the blower motor sits.

 

[Jeff Blake]

I would recommend the side cargo area, vertical firing. Make a box out of 5/8" MDF. I put two subs in the door and Dynamatted the living shit out of it, but I still get buzzes from the latch. And possibly somewhere else that I just can't figure out. Your sound quality would be infinitely better with the normal box built to the proper volume (if you can hear it over the noises the truck makes in the first place). I ditched my rear AC, so I'm toying with the idea of relocating mine to the void where the blower motor sits.

You make sense. Yeah I don't see how having a sub in the rear door would sound good.

Where would that blower motor be? I don't have rear AC, but did find the wires and have tied them away. The rear right cargo area was SO DIRTY when I pulled away the trim, caked in 2-5mm of dirt/dust, then I found that the hole where the vent plugs in is a straight drop to the outside of the truck. I was planning on putting my electrical project here, but not anymore (left side has a flatter/better wall too). Can I plug the vent, or is this where hot air comes from? (I don't see how, since it pulls air from the outside).

 

[Maximumwarp]

You make sense. Yeah I don't see how having a sub in the rear door would sound good.

Where would that blower motor be? I don't have rear AC, but did find the wires and have tied them away. The rear right cargo area was SO DIRTY when I pulled away the trim, caked in 2-5mm of dirt/dust, then I found that the hole where the vent plugs in is a straight drop to the outside of the truck. I was planning on putting my electrical project here, but not anymore (left side has a flatter/better wall too). Can I plug the vent, or is this where hot air comes from? (I don't see how, since it pulls air from the outside).

Blower motor is on the left side. If your truck didn't come equipped with it then I think they just had a cargo box on the left side. As far as that vent is concerned, I'm not real sure what you mean. Is there a hole in the floor pan where a rubber plug should be? Or are you talking about the plastic trim piece that looks kinda like a vent towards the rear?

 

[Jeff Blake]

In my 3rd picture posted above, the larger rectangular hole closest to the cargo door hinge. If you drop something in there, it will fall right out the bottom of the truck. I thought it strange that such a large hole would be exposed to the outside elements.

 

[Jeff Blake]

Jeff, your post is timely. I just purchased a sheet of 0.063" thickness aluminum to make my own door panel. It's going to have a fold-down table, storage pocket, mounting points for recovery gear, and - critically - a bottle opener. I have a custom steel shop a few blocks from my house so I'm going to see if they can do the cutting for me. Otherwise I have a buddy in Monroe with a plasma cutter (which sounds great except for the being in Monroe part).

I also plan to use threaded rivets, rubber washers, and machine screws for mounting. I plan to ditch the speaker from the rear door - it's heavy and the Disco isn't quite a Range Rover in terms of audio quality anyway. Some folks like the bare metal look, I'm considering tan paint to look closer to the stock trim. Drop me a private message if you want to compare notes or pool resources - I have a rivnut tool I'd be happy to let you use.

Collabo! Here's where I'm at so far

Back Panel
Stainless Steel 304-2B finish
18 gauge
46 1/8" width x 20 1/2" length
1" rounded corners
Cut to size from https://www.stainlesssupply.com/ord...ss0p0/304-stainless-steel-sheet-2B-finish.htm
for $114. Weighs 13 pounds

1/4-20 rivet nuts
Vibration absorbing knobs https://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-component-knobs/=15k51ro

Table
1/2" King Starboard
42" x 12 1/2"
Routed edges
Rounded edges
1" rounded corners
$85

Need to figure out a suitable gas spring rating for 3/4" King Starboard. I found a PDF to help compute the number, but its pretty complicated and I haven't dived in yet.

 

[Tugela]

$114. Weighs 13 pounds

I don't know whether that is a good deal considering the custom work. I paid $40 shipped for a 48"x24" sheet of aluminum that weighs maybe 3 pounds but still needs cutting to fit.

Nice find on the anti-vibe knobs.