Custom D1-D2-SWB door seal kit

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,754
561
Seattle
I have a custom set of aftermarket door seals that fit D1, D2, and RRC SWB. These differ from factory door seals in at least 3 ways:
  1. The seals are not a continuous, closed loop. They were cut to length from what was probably a spool of the material and not joined, so the two ends meet in a corner with a 45-degree cut. This is pretty obvious once you start installing them where the ends need to meet and how they fit together.
  2. The cross-section of these seals is fat. Fatter than D2 door seals, fatter than P38 door seals. This means they fill the space in the door jamb so well that closing the doors takes a little extra oomph.
  3. The color of the interior-facing part of the trim is black, not Land Rover factory tan or whatever your truck came with.
These seals pinch onto the door jamb just the same as the factory seals. Installation takes a few minutes with no special tools, although a rubber mallet is helpful. I have labeled them all with tags so you know which one goes to which door. $80 shipped CONUS. Send PM and I'll respond with PayPal info.
 
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Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,754
561
Seattle
The newest factory door seal on a Disco 2 is now 16+ years old. These get compressed over time and lose their springiness. The fatter seals fill the space better, reducing wind noise and water/dust ingress. Lord knows there is no way to keep water and dust out of an older Land Rover, but upgrading the door seals helps a bit.
 
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Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,754
561
Seattle
Yes. Just the one. I bought it from someone else, my wife didn't like the additional effort needed to close the doors, so I sold them and went back to D2 seals. There are enough personality quirks about the Disco that my wife finds annoying, so when it's easy to fix them, I do. Everyone is happier that way.
 

ERover82

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Nov 26, 2011
3,899
450
Darien Gap
I made these and sold them to Tugela. I may be able to make them again if there's enough interest. They seal better than anything out there.
 
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Blue

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Mar 26, 2004
10,043
856
AZ
ERover82, I'd be interested in a new seal for the cargo door.
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,754
561
Seattle
Since someone else asked, I'm guessing others also have questions about the remove-reinstall process. Here's a description of how I did it. There may be a better way, but this seemed to work okay.

The tools you need are a Phillips head screwdriver and some kind of broad hammering implement - rubber mallet, a meat tenderizer, a croquet mallet, a baseball bat, or a 28-oz can of tomatoes. Whatever you have on hand. Optional - damp rag, vacuum cleaner, anti-seize.

1. Remove the aluminum floor plates from the sills at each door using the screwdriver on the hardware.
2. Find the part of the trim that pinches onto the door jamb. Starting in the middle of a straight section (like between the two top corners of the door, tug on the trim (not the rubber seal itself) gently but persistently. With the right amount of force, it will separate from the door jamb.
3. Peel the rest of the trim off, it will separate in one big loop. Use the damp rag to wipe away any dust or grime that may have gathered on the door jamb. Vacuum the floor around the sills.
4. Keep the part you just removed next to the door from which it came as a reference for identifying which replacement seal goes in its place.
5. Find the replacement part by matching it up against the shape of the door and the seal you just removed. Use the location of the corners, the bends, and the contours as clues. For example, the rear door seals will have two 90-degree corners at the top and that little kink where the door jamb kicks out just above the wheel well. The fronts will have 90-degree corners at the bottom and a kink at about the height of the side-view mirror.
6. Starting with the top corners, push the pinching part of the new seal onto the metal of the door jamb. Snug the corners in tightly, then work your way between them to fix the trim to the jamb. The whole loop will now be hanging from the top.
7. Slowly work your way from top to bottom, a few inches at a time on each side, manually pushing the trim onto the jamb and keeping an eye on the tension of the seal. You may need to back up and reposition sections if they don't align with the contours of the jamb. Too short? Stretch the seal out a bit as you push it onto the jamb. Too long? Remove the last foot or two and reinstall under less tension.
8. The end goal is to get the trim pinched onto the door jamb such that all the corners, bends, and contours of the seal align with their respective features on the jamb and the seal sits flush the whole way around. Got a gap somewhere? Pull it off and reinstall with more tension to stretch it out. Bunched up somewhere? Pull it off and reinstall with less tension.
9. Once you're happy with the way the trim is sitting on the jamb, take your pounding tool of choice and tap the trim onto the jamb more firmly. Use light taps, very closely spaced as you work your way around. You should see the trim settle another couple millimeters onto the jamb. Tap tap tap all the way around. The seal trim should sit flush with the plastic interior pillar panels. Bulging out? Keep tapping. Can't get it flush? Pull a couple feet off and reinstall with more or less tension as needed.
10. Repeat for the other doors.
11. When you're happy with the way it sits, reinstall the aluminum sill plates with anti-seize on the screw threads.
12. Done. Open and close the doors a few times to get a feel for the difference. Consider keeping the original seals for a while until you are sure that you are happy with the replacements.
 
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ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,899
450
Darien Gap
Got a few PMs as well, so I'll be looking into producing these again. Going to take some time to get everything in place.
 
I made these and sold them to Tugela. I may be able to make them again if there's enough interest. They seal better than anything out there.

If you are in this business, please consider making the lower seal for the upper liftgate for the RRCs.

I had a potential source, but in mid-economic meltdown, the company just disappeared-just as a client of mine was trying to buy the company.
 
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