Since someone else asked, I'm guessing others also have questions about the remove-reinstall process. Here's a description of how I did it. There may be a better way, but this seemed to work okay.
The tools you need are a Phillips head screwdriver and some kind of broad hammering implement - rubber mallet, a meat tenderizer, a croquet mallet, a baseball bat, or a 28-oz can of tomatoes. Whatever you have on hand. Optional - damp rag, vacuum cleaner, anti-seize.
1. Remove the aluminum floor plates from the sills at each door using the screwdriver on the hardware.
2. Find the part of the trim that pinches onto the door jamb. Starting in the middle of a straight section (like between the two top corners of the door, tug on the trim (not the rubber seal itself) gently but persistently. With the right amount of force, it will separate from the door jamb.
3. Peel the rest of the trim off, it will separate in one big loop. Use the damp rag to wipe away any dust or grime that may have gathered on the door jamb. Vacuum the floor around the sills.
4. Keep the part you just removed next to the door from which it came as a reference for identifying which replacement seal goes in its place.
5. Find the replacement part by matching it up against the shape of the door and the seal you just removed. Use the location of the corners, the bends, and the contours as clues. For example, the rear door seals will have two 90-degree corners at the top and that little kink where the door jamb kicks out just above the wheel well. The fronts will have 90-degree corners at the bottom and a kink at about the height of the side-view mirror.
6. Starting with the top corners, push the pinching part of the new seal onto the metal of the door jamb. Snug the corners in tightly, then work your way between them to fix the trim to the jamb. The whole loop will now be hanging from the top.
7. Slowly work your way from top to bottom, a few inches at a time on each side, manually pushing the trim onto the jamb and keeping an eye on the tension of the seal. You may need to back up and reposition sections if they don't align with the contours of the jamb. Too short? Stretch the seal out a bit as you push it onto the jamb. Too long? Remove the last foot or two and reinstall under less tension.
8. The end goal is to get the trim pinched onto the door jamb such that all the corners, bends, and contours of the seal align with their respective features on the jamb and the seal sits flush the whole way around. Got a gap somewhere? Pull it off and reinstall with more tension to stretch it out. Bunched up somewhere? Pull it off and reinstall with less tension.
9. Once you're happy with the way the trim is sitting on the jamb, take your pounding tool of choice and tap the trim onto the jamb more firmly. Use light taps, very closely spaced as you work your way around. You should see the trim settle another couple millimeters onto the jamb. Tap tap tap all the way around. The seal trim should sit flush with the plastic interior pillar panels. Bulging out? Keep tapping. Can't get it flush? Pull a couple feet off and reinstall with more or less tension as needed.
10. Repeat for the other doors.
11. When you're happy with the way it sits, reinstall the aluminum sill plates with anti-seize on the screw threads.
12. Done. Open and close the doors a few times to get a feel for the difference. Consider keeping the original seals for a while until you are sure that you are happy with the replacements.