D1 1997 - No Start/Crank/Click

Toran

Well-known member
Feb 3, 2017
416
48
Ohio
Try connecting a momentary switch to the starter and the battery to see if the truck will start.

Do you have the original ignition coils installed, check its plug and wiring.
 

Errant

Well-known member
Oct 1, 2004
767
20
Southern California
This might be getting into territory Im not familiar with if it ends up being anything with the ignition circuitry BUT, how much have you tested the starter/power when ignition is turned on?

If youre certain the starter is good. You should be able to test to make sure its getting power by using your multimeter and putting the pos on the terminal coming from battery and grounding the neg on the body. You should read a current there no matter what. Then after confirming that, change the pos to the other terminal going from the start solenoid to the start motor and keeping the ground in its place and then having a buddy try and start up the car. if you dont see anything there then i would suspect a bad solenoid on the starter OR there is something wrong with the wiring from the ignition.

Hopefully there are some people more experienced with the ignition that can jump if everything else checks out.

i get 12v at the positive terminal of starter, and 12v at the relay terminal of starter when the key is turned to start. So it would appear my wiring and relay are good, yeah?
 

robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
227
34
Seattle
i get 12v at the positive terminal of starter, and 12v at the relay terminal of starter when the key is turned to start. So it would appear my wiring and relay are good, yeah?
I guess one more test would be if you get the same power readings on the last step without the ignition on. While I dont think that should show anything, Id be interested if it does.

Did you hear any clicking from the starter when the key was turned? It might be showing power but if any part of the starter isnt making a noise, id suspect the starter is an issue since youre getting signal from the ignition.

My logic is that the power to solenoid is good, signal from ignition is coming to starter, starter should at the point start making a clicking sound. On mine, when it had totally failed, it stopped making any noise what-so-ever.
 

Errant

Well-known member
Oct 1, 2004
767
20
Southern California
I only get a reading on the relay terminal of the starter when key is turned to start.

The starter is good. I changed it out a couple of months ago when the problem was intermitt, hoping that would solve it. I put in the high-torque starter from classiccar performance.com. It worked great when the Disco was being nice and not doing this.
 

Errant

Well-known member
Oct 1, 2004
767
20
Southern California
Any other ideas?

while poking around, I did fix the solder joints on the window ECU. Disco won’t start, but at least I can open my rear windows now :D
 

Errant

Well-known member
Oct 1, 2004
767
20
Southern California
The alarm seems to be functioning as is should. Doors lock with key, side marker flashes, LED on the dash flashes. Unlock with key, side markers flash, LED on dash goes out.

Today I swapped the relay with a brand new one, just in case, but no go. Then I put another ground strap from the easy to get to starter mounting bolt to another spot near the first one, behind the passenger front wheel. No change. I kinda wanna cry today.
 

Icannap1

Well-known member
Mar 3, 2015
123
21
OC, CA
when you check the power at the relay are you using a meter or a test light? Voltage is important but amperage is what makes it work. Use a test light that has a traditional bulb in it not a probe. Attach the ground clip as close as possible to the starter a bolt or something then have some one turn the key to the start position and hold it while the probe end of the test light is on the positive terminal of the starter and see if the test light bulb dims, then do the same for the starter terminal that actuates the starter solenoid. The test light should not dim out it may flicker but it should not go out or dim. Last do the same except place the ground clip on the positive terminal of the starter and place the probe end on the metal casing of the starter and have someone turn the key to the start position of the ignition key again the light should not dim or go out. This test will determine if you have current issue that could be from a corroded cable, or a corroded terminal.
 
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Icannap1

Well-known member
Mar 3, 2015
123
21
OC, CA
That means no issues with the wiring no corrosion, when you had someone hold the key in the crank position was the light solid and when the key was released did it go out?
 

Errant

Well-known member
Oct 1, 2004
767
20
Southern California
Yes, solid in Start, off when let go. All I can think of is that it has to be the new starter failed. I’m going to have to pull it and have it tested. Unless there’s anything else I can check at home?
 

jlprice

Well-known member
Jul 29, 2004
45
1
Falls Church VA
WORKING PROBLEM SESOLVED: Replaced ground from battery and power to starter. Cleaned off contacts at all grounding locations. Replaced Starter (and heat shield) with known good used starter from local contact and everything fires up right away, even after driving which i would sometimes have issues with.

All weird electrical stuff has gone away, remote FOBS work again. My rpms still dont work but i get that from the Ultragauge anyways.

Thanks for everyones help!

RPM is a line from the alternator. If you switch to non-LR alternator, it makes the tach no longer work. How do I know...
 

Errant

Well-known member
Oct 1, 2004
767
20
Southern California
So I finally got around to pulling the starter and getting it tested. I really should have done that first, but being less than a year old from britishstraters.com I didn’t want to believe it. Now to wait on the replacement, hopefully it doesn’t take as long to get here as the original did.