D1 Alternator discussion

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,754
562
Seattle
I drove about 700 miles home in one go, the tach stayed steady the whole trip. The dash lights still pulsate. In my mailbox when I got home was a replacement P38 alternator, which I'll install tomorrow and see if there's any difference. Then I'll have a spare to rebuild.
 
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Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,754
562
Seattle
Swapped the alternator this afternoon. Lights now hold steady, flickering effect is gone. I'll withhold a final verdict until I have a few days and more miles on the Rover, but early indications suggest that the new alternator was the solution.
 

Frobisher

Well-known member
Dec 27, 2012
200
68
Pennsylvania
Swapped the alternator this afternoon. Lights now hold steady, flickering effect is gone. I'll withhold a final verdict until I have a few days and more miles on the Rover, but early indications suggest that the new alternator was the solution.

Did you have any buzz in your radio possibly related to your alternator issue? I put in a used one recently from
Will T. as well, which eliminated a bad buzzing. It was replaced with a faint hum and the slight intermittent flickering lights and console lights. My chassis to ground seems to be good, so I’m not real sure the exact culprit if not the alternator.

For now, I’m just driving it until something becomes obvious. Or I become oblivious.
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,754
562
Seattle
No buzz in the radio, either before or after. I had to replace another alternator a while back and that gave off a cyclical whirring sound that I can't describe very well, but it was apparent from the cabin. Multiple sources, including some I know personally and whose assessments I trust, suggested a fried diode in the alternator I just removed. I'll still double check my grounds, but so far so good with the replacement.
 

best4x4

Well-known member
Mar 1, 2015
595
72
Beaumont, TX
First thing I did on my 95 D1 = install a GEMS P38 alternator and a 96-99 D1 tach. Now my RPM's are correct, and I have a 120AMP unit vs 100AMP.