D1 Manual Transmission Conversion - Warm air center console

[glester]

Ok, so I just recently completed the conversion of my 300TDI D1 to the R380 from the ZF auto box. I know I'm missing some parts between the center console and the open air under the truck. What is happening is actually a bit interesting. When I open any of the windows, I can feel warm air coming up through the center console in certain spots. It wouldn't be so bad and Seattle isn't too warm in the summer, but it defeats the purpose of opening the windows. Add to the fact that I don't have AC in the truck.

Anyway, in the auto, there was a plate that was riveted in and removed to make space for the manual lever. I sourced a replacement center console with the appropriate cutout for the manual and I have the rubber piece that goes on top of the center console that goes around both the transfer lever and gear selector lever.

In my research so far, it seem that I should get the rubber tunnel cover (AWR3286) and it also seems that there is some foam piece that goes between the rubber tunnel cover and the plastic console cover, but I'm looking to confirm if there is anything else that I should get.

Anybody with a manual Disco 1 or somebody that has experience with one that can verify?

Thanks in advance!

 

[DiscoPhoto]

When I did mine, I used the foam piece as well as the rubber. I don't believe the foam is still available, the rubber is

 

[robertf]

There is a foam rubber deal that goes between the rubber tunnel cover and the console on mine

 

[glester]

When I did mine, I used the foam piece as well as the rubber. I don't believe the foam is still available, the rubber is

Thanks! I'll figure out the foam piece. I think I can guestimate the thickness with photos I've seen and cut something out.

 

[glester]

There is a foam rubber deal that goes between the rubber tunnel cover and the console on mine

Thanks for confirming.

 

[Rocky]

Some hoodliner or dynaliner type product would do the trick. On the defender its not that rigid.

 

[German Gruner]

Foam is code AWR3287 or BTR9218. Its foam of same density as floor foam mats.
And when inserted in the hole it is exactly same height from surrounding insulation.

Regards

 

[German Gruner]

 

[glester]

Foam is code AWR3287 or BTR9218. Its foam of same density as floor foam mats.
And when inserted in the hole it is exactly same height from surrounding insulation.

Regards

Beautiful! Thanks again!

 

[glester]

Seems difficult to find. I'll start digging.

 

[bsa_m21]

Apparently this is the alternative version:

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/82420/5497/rubber_seal_for_gearlevers_disco

M

 

[glester]

Apparently this is the alternative version:

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/82420/5497/rubber_seal_for_gearlevers_disco

M

Thanks. Yeah, I think there are the 2 pieces. The one you show is rubber (AWR3286) and factory riveted (though I'll probably screw it in). Then there is the foam piece that lays on top of that (AWR3287).

-G

 

[fishEH]

Thanks. Yeah, I think there are the 2 pieces. The one you show is rubber (AWR3286) and factory riveted (though I'll probably screw it in). Then there is the foam piece that lays on top of that (AWR3287).

-G

I used rivnuts and screws to mount my rubber. Foam goes on top of the rubber IIRC.

 

[German Gruner]

There is a frame holding this rubber piece, and an approx. 3" diameter ring that is fixed with 3 screws over R380's lever housing.
This rubber was riveted because mounting criterium for rubber parts was traction applied rivets. Mudflaps were also riveted and not fixed with screws. To achieve an even Rubber flattening. Serial production tips!

Regards

 

[glester]

There is a frame holding this rubber piece, and an approx. 3" diameter ring that is fixed with 3 screws over R380's lever housing.
This rubber was riveted because mounting criterium for rubber parts was traction applied rivets. Mudflaps were also riveted and not fixed with screws. To achieve an even Rubber flattening. Serial production tips!

Regards

Thanks. I have that ring still but I installed a slickshift so the housing no longer fits.

 

[fishEH]

There is a frame holding this rubber piece, and an approx. 3" diameter ring that is fixed with 3 screws over R380's lever housing.
This rubber was riveted because mounting criterium for rubber parts was traction applied rivets. Mudflaps were also riveted and not fixed with screws. To achieve an even Rubber flattening. Serial production tips!

Regards

Not sure what that means exactly but my rivnuts and screws are working well so far. And when I swap the transmission soon I won't have to drill rivets.

Thanks. I have that ring still but I installed a slickshift so the housing no longer fits.

I too have the Slickshift. Just had to notch the housing, no big deal.

 

[discostew]

There is a frame holding this rubber piece, and an approx. 3" diameter ring that is fixed with 3 screws over R380's lever housing.
This rubber was riveted because mounting criterium for rubber parts was traction applied rivets. Mudflaps were also riveted and not fixed with screws. To achieve an even Rubber flattening. Serial production tips!

Regards

What does the rivet gun look like that would set those rivets? It's a goofy looking rivet. The mudflap rivets.

 

[fishEH]

What does the rivet gun look like that would set those rivets? It's a goofy looking rivet. The mudflap rivets.

I thought the metal plate the shape of the rubbwr provided even clamping force. The rivets I drilled out seemed pretty normal to me.

 

[German Gruner]

It looks near the same as pop rivet gun, when iron bolt is pulled, the alu bush is pressed inside a conical cavity, its diameter becomes smaller and fits to iron bolt. Iron bolt that was pulled breaks at a point. Hope you can understand my description.

Regards