Gday all. I am going to try and get this sorted next week. I ave a D1 housing and I am fittng that to my 01 D2 that has no spiggot and no ineternals for the CDL - it will have the Centre Diff Lock/Unlock switch. On my current D2 (without CDL internals) there is the high/low switch on a seperate part of the output housing but of course no Diff/Unlock switch. So...i need both switches.
I have just looked up RAVE and as said above the High/Low switch informs the SLABS and other computers that the vehicle is in low range so as to enable Hill Descent Control to be used, remap throttle etc. I reckon it also makes the traction control more aggresive too but that isnt said in RAVE. So I can either stick my high/low switch in the D1 output housing or I can have a dash switch to do the same thing going back to the loom near the output housing...no big problem. It says as follows:
Differential lock warning lamp - Vehicles up to 03 model year ? if fitted
The differential lock warning lamp is located in the instrument pack and provides a warning to the driver when the
ignition is switched on that the differential lock is engaged. The warning lamp illuminates in a Red colour.
With the lock engaged, the traction control and electronic brake distribution warning lamps will also be illuminated.
Disengagement of the differential lock should be carried out with the ignition switched off. The warning lamps must
be extinguished when the ignition is switched on again.
......
SO - my question is can I just use the D1 CDL switch that will be in the D1 output housing the run connect it to the wires that should be there near the transfer case (are they...does anyone know??) to illuminate a either the original light on the dash directly or if that is a no go due to prined circuits etc behind the fascia just to a fresh light? Also is the guff they talk about above just the usual stuff about the fact that ETC will be disengaged if you stall it or turn it off whilst diff locked? Am I right in saying if you select CDL whilst in low range with engine running you get CDL AND ETC?
With the high low switch that is in my D2 output housing currently, should I remove that and drill and tap it into the D1 housing, or just get a dash mounted switch to control that and wire it back to the loom near the transfer case where it currently is...?
Cheers all and thanks.
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I have just looked up RAVE and as said above the High/Low switch informs the SLABS and other computers that the vehicle is in low range so as to enable Hill Descent Control to be used, remap throttle etc. I reckon it also makes the traction control more aggresive too but that isnt said in RAVE. So I can either stick my high/low switch in the D1 output housing or I can have a dash switch to do the same thing going back to the loom near the output housing...no big problem. It says as follows:
Differential lock warning lamp - Vehicles up to 03 model year ? if fitted
The differential lock warning lamp is located in the instrument pack and provides a warning to the driver when the
ignition is switched on that the differential lock is engaged. The warning lamp illuminates in a Red colour.
With the lock engaged, the traction control and electronic brake distribution warning lamps will also be illuminated.
Disengagement of the differential lock should be carried out with the ignition switched off. The warning lamps must
be extinguished when the ignition is switched on again.
......
SO - my question is can I just use the D1 CDL switch that will be in the D1 output housing the run connect it to the wires that should be there near the transfer case (are they...does anyone know??) to illuminate a either the original light on the dash directly or if that is a no go due to prined circuits etc behind the fascia just to a fresh light? Also is the guff they talk about above just the usual stuff about the fact that ETC will be disengaged if you stall it or turn it off whilst diff locked? Am I right in saying if you select CDL whilst in low range with engine running you get CDL AND ETC?
With the high low switch that is in my D2 output housing currently, should I remove that and drill and tap it into the D1 housing, or just get a dash mounted switch to control that and wire it back to the loom near the transfer case where it currently is...?
Cheers all and thanks.
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