D110 booster/master cylinder

[garrett]

Yep another 110 question.

1984 D110 with the 200tdi motor. The pedal is losing pressure at a stop. Fluid was nasty and bled it, but knew it wouldn't take care of the pressure loss in the pedal. No leaking from the master (bottom seals), so maybe the booster.

AB has one for $150 or so, but not 100% sure if that works on pre-1994 Defenders.

PT you have any? Anyone else sell these? Checked with Rovers Down South - nada.

Of course I need it ASAP. Early next week.

 

[JSQ]

Trevor at Rovah Farm in Maine has what you need.

In fact, if you haven't already been using him, he probably has most of what you need for your ROW 110 in stock and at a competitive price. I just got a NRC4772 servo from him just a while ago. He mostly stocks Allmakes and Genuine parts. Very little Britpart.

You may have the 227mm booster but I'm guessing it's the 276mm.

Your M/C is also likely not the same as the NAS trucks. I'm guessing it is the late SIII type with only 3 lines.

 

[JSQ]

You should also check the rear wheel cylinders. These tend to suck air in rather than leak fluid out, so it's not as obvious when they've failed.

 

[garrett]

I will have a closer look tomorrow. The pedal does not seem to be losing as much pressure, but I am getting a harder pedal now - where I am having to press further down on the pedal to get any good power/pressure.

At least I am not getting the roll back at stops and lights right now.

Thanks

 

[Ron]

Probably the MC or at least that is where I would start. $135 from George at RDS (show on his website) but if he is out of stock RN should not be much more.

Lucas/Girling
Brake Master Cylinder
Early 110
NRC8690 $135.00

 

[61rover]

Check the slave cylinder too. Cheap fix.

 

[Ron]

No slave cylinders in the brakes .... calipers and wheel cylinders, not slave.

 

[61rover]

Duh. Another drinking related keyboard injury.

 

[garrett]

Well it ended up being a leaking valve body/manifold where all the lines meet. I made some calls as there are a few variations of this. Will be calling Trevor at RF on Monday as he wasn't around Friday afternoon.

 

[D Chapman]

You may check with Doug Crowler, Garrett. He's in Arnold, MD, not sure how far that is from you..

http://dividingcreekroverimports.com/

 

[ptschram]

Garrett:
I've got an order going n this evening. CALL ME! If you have the part numbers, I can get them for you if they are in stock in the UK.

I think I have the correct parts catalog for this truck as well, perhaps you need one as well... I'll order another one for you.

If you call me on the phone and force me to sit down and do the work, it gets done. Other means, I get lost in the weeds. I AM NOT Will Tillery, damn him for being so good at this game!

PT

 

[JSQ]

Does your truck have a bias/proportioning valve?

 

[garrett]

Does your truck have a bias/proportioning valve?

That is what I am assuming this "valve" is that is leaking. I haven't gotten to actually look at the valve as I am working each day and don't have time to go to the shop.

PT I don't have a part number. I am just getting back online now and will see what I can find.

RN quoted me $350 to $500 for the manifold valve depending on how many lines.

Thanks,

 

[ptschram]

I ordered the manual/parts catalog on CD-ROM for you, it's backordered, might be awhile.

I have an iffy proportioning valve on the floor of the shop. I was gonna put it in my '93 SWB, but, if you need it, I can ship it to you.

I've been told that the proportioning valves for NAS vehicles are all the same Defender/Disco/early RRC with plugs in some of the ports. Don't know if it's true though.

 

[Ron]

How does that leak?

 

[ptschram]

How does that leak?

Typically, they leak from the big nut on the end. I've heard of folks rebuilding them but I haven't tried it yet.

 

[garrett]

When I talked to Les at RN he mentioned there was one with 5 lines and one with 3. I have yet to get eyes on it. I am hoping to head over to the shop tomorrow after training and take a look.
Of course all our trucks are breaking down and out of 6 we have 4 good runners........for now. The battery light came on a DI today with no tach working, so I can potentially guess what is going on there. haha.
Hell we were thinking of just slapping some JB Weld on the valve for now!

Thanks PT. I will let you know what I find out tomorrow.

I miss the humid VA air blowing through my hair in the 110!

 

[JSQ]

The early 110 brake circuit may contain both a proportioning/bias valve and an emergency cut-off switch.
The first provides bias pressure to the front calipers to prevent lock-up of the rear wheels by the cylinders. The second actually closes off the caliper circuit from the cylinders and vice versa when failure occurs resulting in pressure loss. When functioning they are fairly good to have, but neither are essential. You can actually T all of your lines together and remove the switch and valve entirely and the braking system will function just fine. If you're looking for a simple long term solution on trucks that see mostly offroad use I'd be inclined to remove the valve and switch altogether.
You're also pretty cheap so you might like this option for that reason.

 

[garrett]

That's just mean spirited and hurtful Jack.

I'm not paying the bills and cost isn't an issue.......only time.

I've got on a pretty cool Special Forces t-shirt you might like.

 

[JSQ]

I was just calling it like I see it. It was by no means an insult. Lots of people make cost a top priority. Look at Ron. He's an attorney, has a huge Rover parts stash and is still the cheapest haggling parts vulture out there.

Seriously, just pipe all the lines together. You'll hardly notice a difference.