D2- 35's worth the effort vs higher CG?

[gmookher]

So time has come to buy new tires, and I've got 4.11 gears waiting to be installed, while I know I will still be undergeared with a 35, I've wheeled and towed just fine thus far on stock ratio with 33s on the 4.6. I'm in no way against the extra work to make the 35's fit and tuck in, if they are truly worth it. I can optionally sell the never installed gear if you tell me I will be grossly undergeared, for the kind of steep terrain we have here in AZ.
Do any of you who have 35s on a d2 regret it, or feel you were more stable off camber with 33s? I run a 1" spacer with Nato type rims. Feedback welcome, thanks

 

[Jake1996D1]

If the 4.11's arent installed yet get 4.75's with some 35's. Or stick with 33's on the 4.11's. I'm sure you could get by with 4.11's but whats the point if they arent already installed..

 

[lunchbox]

I ran 4:11s and 35s on my D1 with a 4.6. I liked it. Speedo was perfect. Cruised well. Gas mileage was as good as can be expected. Etc... I ran 4:56s with the 35s for a few weeks while I was waiting on my 37s. It felt a little busy on the interstate. I know you have a D2. But that's my experience.

 

[ptschram]

I have 35s and 3.54s.

Worth it? HELL YEAH!

If I ever get my front axle done, I'll have 4.10s, I expect it to be fine.

 

[Mongo]

You'll need to worry about your hubs more anything else. Longer shocks, longer bumpstops, more body roll...

 

[p m]

35s finally did in my old fullsize Cherokee...

 

[achapman]

I have the ashcroft 4.37's from Justin @ Lucky8llc. At 70mph I'm right around 3k rpm.

Sometimes I miss the disco on 32's. Though it looks bad ass

 

[seventyfive]

i run q78's on my d2, 4.10 front, 4.11 rear, 4.6 motor, daily driver+trail truck, the only regret i have is not getting the the sam-27's when i had the chance(36x13-16).

keep in mind the investment needed to build the drive line up then modify the suspension to actually be able to use the tire properly, would buy you another d2. anything over a 33" tire on a d2 requires modification beyond 'bolt ons' to fully use the tire and lift to your advantage.

 

[Mongo]

is that a slight "4-link" hint...

 

[Jake1996D1]

is that a slight "4-link" hint...

WOOO 4 LINK!!!! big tires need big(er) lift and if you dont have enough flex it is likely to end up on its side or roof.... CONES, long travel shocks and linked suspension..

I think you should just sell your D2 and buy a built D1 on 35's sounds easier to me

Or just do a body lift I like to open as many cans or worms as humanly possible

 

[Mongo]

hate to say it but Mike is right...the step to 35's is really a big step and the suspension is just too limited to take advantage of the increase...Gem, you need to come down for a run, posted up a bunch on the baja list, did you see it?

 

[KyleT]

35's on stock radius arms? NO WAY, super tippy even on 33's IMO.

35's on my super bad wicked awesome link setup? Yeah they should have been 37's, its stupid stable. im using 4.10's and it sits pretty nice on the highway and will still get up to speed somewhat. its slow in the mtns though.

Gem, I know we talked before prob a year and a half or two ago now, but yeah, it is totally worth doing the link setup. the only drawback for me is no sways and mad body roll, but it never feels unstable. even on the highway.

 

[gmookher]

SO I guess that's what I was looking for ...
Am I hearing the rover axle/hubs can not be kept? I was pretty sure I saw some rover axled d2 on 35s...at my last rally

I'm ok relinking- who knows what they are doing and can do this for me and what will this cost? I'm not sure I am ready to go to 3rd party axles, is that really a requirement- does the d2 hub just not last long on a 35 or is it a potential point of catastrophic failure?

 

[Jake1996D1]

SO I guess that's what I was looking for ...
Am I hearing the rover axle/hubs can not be kept? I was pretty sure I saw some rover axled d2 on 35s...at my last rally

I'm ok relinking- who knows what they are doing and can do this for me and what will this cost? I'm not sure I am ready to go to 3rd party axles, is that really a requirement- does the d2 hub just not last long on a 35 or is it a potential point of catastrophic failure?

Call Justin, get Ashcrofts

 

[Mongo]

He has them already...I'd worry about the hub's, D1's are a different animal from a D2...

It's doable, but it's a lot of work...

 

[Jake1996D1]

He has them already...I'd worry about the hub's, D1's are a different animal from a D2...

It's doable, but it's a lot of work...

Yea I should shut up I don't know shit about d2s except engine, diffs and suspension

 

[Mongo]

So enlighten us on what you need to do to run a 35? Please, because I really don't shit about them...

 

[KyleT]

all i can say is

I did A TON of research on all that is available for D2's and found that nothing really came close to being bulletproof enough for me. Im sure mongo came to the same conclusion as I did before me, because we are two peas in a pod. I wanted a pretty good bet that I would not be breaking some crazy one off parts in the middle of nowhere.

My setup is designed to use mostly off the shelf parts in case of a failure. my steering tie rod and draglink arms are toyota length, my driveshafts are stock rover, all the axle internals are stock toyota. If i bend a link, i can sleeve it easily and make it home. if i break a shaft, i can get one and pop it in easily.

Full float, huge brakes, huge shafts, and ABS retention are HUUGE benifits to the fzj80 setup IMO. oh and sealed knuckls.

I think he would be fine with the rover upgrades, but for me since i was starting with a blank slate, it was an easier choice to go that direction.

 

[gmookher]

I got HD rovertracks tie rod with defender TREs, rte drag link, rte panhard all adjustable HD
CDL,ARBs and Ashcrofts and remote reservoir Bilsteins valved as stiff as they come, 10"(+1.5 rte lower mount extensions)/12" at all four corners, on rte 3" coils, rte front arms 3 degree
RTE extended watts, extended abs and brakes(dba/akebono)
Articulates and crawls as nice as it can with OE rear trailing arms.

I'd like the brain consortium on this thread to tell me what to do and in what order. Kyle. Mongo, how does the fzj80 setup keep the Disco ABS/TC, assuming I'm willing to spend the coin(how is this different from the keith setup where he makes you a custom fabbed yota axle that mates with a d2 hub? What about my existing setup wont handle the 35s-assuming I'm willing to live with some hub wear? I dont thik the ashcrofts arent up to the task, so lets assume I roll with them for now, new R&p, and try and rock my existing shafts. Is there a way to move my perches and shock setup and potentially 3-or 4- link my Existing axles? I know thats within Franks skilset. If its just cutting and welding perches and mounts, adding linkage, can that allow one to sensibly benefit a 35 setup?

I doubt I am a ginea pig on the ashcrofts, its likely been done. I wanna play

 

[Jake1996D1]

Mike (seventyfive) is running d2 axles 4 linked, he has a thread on here with pics and all that good stuff. Frank and Kyle can give you details on the front set up I am sure.