D2 Body on D1 Chassis?
- Thread starter ERover82
- Start date
Why?
If you're after simpler systems just yank the whole wire harness out of the D2 and refresh with a kit from EZWire.com
Then use a stand alone EFI system or swap a carb on it. Or do a motor swap. Trans TCU can be hacked with available kits too.
Brake system can be easily redone using GM components either vac assist or hydro.
If it's suspension issues swap the rear watts link for a D1 style set-up. A little metal fab and you're done.
All of this is far easier than a chassis swap considering ALL of the mounting points are different and the D1 frame is shorter.
If you're after simpler systems just yank the whole wire harness out of the D2 and refresh with a kit from EZWire.com
Then use a stand alone EFI system or swap a carb on it. Or do a motor swap. Trans TCU can be hacked with available kits too.
Brake system can be easily redone using GM components either vac assist or hydro.
If it's suspension issues swap the rear watts link for a D1 style set-up. A little metal fab and you're done.
All of this is far easier than a chassis swap considering ALL of the mounting points are different and the D1 frame is shorter.
Why? D2 has comfort, good looks, and a little more room. D1 is easier to work on and modify, more aftermarket support, less engine issues, less rust-prone frame, full floating axles, etc. Not so damn hard to understand.
The wheelbase is the same and AFAIK the body mounts are in the same positions. With all the junk D1 and D2s out there it's not so hard to imagine.
The wheelbase is the same and AFAIK the body mounts are in the same positions. With all the junk D1 and D2s out there it's not so hard to imagine.
I don't get the good looks comment. A D2 looks like a D1 with different door handles.
More room is nice, but a D1 has a big enough ass as it is when wheeling. Comfort? Maybe a little more sound deadener on a D2. D1s were hardly uncomfortable when new. New door seals and bushings goes a long way on a 200k D1.
More room is nice, but a D1 has a big enough ass as it is when wheeling. Comfort? Maybe a little more sound deadener on a D2. D1s were hardly uncomfortable when new. New door seals and bushings goes a long way on a 200k D1.
D2 has slightly larger wheel arches, good looking flares (IMO), no ugly plastic side trim, different headlights, larger better looking rear lights, and cleaner looking bonded windows. The interior has more sound deadening, more comfortable seats, black dash (in some), digital climate control, cleaner looking airbag cover, forward facing rear seats, and generally less wear. Rock crawlers obviously don't want the big ass but others might prefer the room.
Having driven both, I'd be very reluctant to give up any of the D2 suspension/brake improvements. D1's come across as a bit crude to be honest.
Radius arms and mounts are stronger on the D2, Watts linkage I prefer to the A-frame on the D1, ACE is excellent as long as it's working, you have room for 255/65R16's and bigger without problems, and so on.
Peter
Radius arms and mounts are stronger on the D2, Watts linkage I prefer to the A-frame on the D1, ACE is excellent as long as it's working, you have room for 255/65R16's and bigger without problems, and so on.
Peter
So since you're not rock crawling the axle strength is not an issue really.... D2 brakes are far far better, suspension flex is almost as good and road comfort far better... the weak link then is the frame rust and motor?
Find a solid clean rust free southern truck and coat the frame internally with POR15 and/or Waxoil then swap the motor for a stock 4.8 or 5.3 Chevy of the same year or newer so it's legal and you'll have a reliable, powerful and comfortable dual purpose truck.
I "get" it - the D2 is a nicer truck for sure in a lot of ways... that's why I'm swapping a 2004 D2 interior and lots of sound deadening into my '93 RRC along with the Isuzu turbo diesel.
Find a solid clean rust free southern truck and coat the frame internally with POR15 and/or Waxoil then swap the motor for a stock 4.8 or 5.3 Chevy of the same year or newer so it's legal and you'll have a reliable, powerful and comfortable dual purpose truck.
I "get" it - the D2 is a nicer truck for sure in a lot of ways... that's why I'm swapping a 2004 D2 interior and lots of sound deadening into my '93 RRC along with the Isuzu turbo diesel.
listerdiesel said:
Agreed. Having owned both a D1 and D2, I'd rather just have a 90 or 110 instead of a D1... except that over here they cost 10 times what they are worth. A 94 costs as much as what you'd pay for a 2012.
Now the real question is what chassis will a 1965 IIa 109 fit on? I'm going to look at one tomorrow that is supposedly pretty rusty. I hear they will bolt right onto a 110 chassis, but will they bolt onto a RRC LWB? A buddy of mine has a nice 1995 that I could also pick up quite cheaply.
robertf said:Jafir, it won't bolt up anywhere without work. I'm doing a 86/100 hybrid on a d1 chassis now
That's pretty awesome. If the 109 I'm going to look at is "complete" I may have to buy it and ship it home, no matter how rusty it is.
Series 3 body on a 91 RRC frame
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/84178-Franken-Rover-Overlander
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/84178-Franken-Rover-Overlander
You have to look at the two product lines:
Series I, II, IIA, III 88" and 109" wheelbase - Defender 90" and 110" wheelbase
Range Rover - Discovery I - Discovery II 100" wheelbase
The Series and Defender are based around a chassis, bulkhead and body which is nut and bolted together.
The RR and Discoveries are based on a chassis and bodyshell.
Having had deep involvement on Series III 88" and 109" chassis rebuilds, I can confirm that the two sets of vehicles are pretty far apart when it comes to compatibilities.
We are lucky in having new chassis available over here for all but the Range-Rovers. Richards Chassis are now producing a galvanised DII chassis for a limited period, not for a D1.
Peter
Series I, II, IIA, III 88" and 109" wheelbase - Defender 90" and 110" wheelbase
Range Rover - Discovery I - Discovery II 100" wheelbase
The Series and Defender are based around a chassis, bulkhead and body which is nut and bolted together.
The RR and Discoveries are based on a chassis and bodyshell.
Having had deep involvement on Series III 88" and 109" chassis rebuilds, I can confirm that the two sets of vehicles are pretty far apart when it comes to compatibilities.
We are lucky in having new chassis available over here for all but the Range-Rovers. Richards Chassis are now producing a galvanised DII chassis for a limited period, not for a D1.
Peter