(Disco 2) Terrible “lifter” engine clicking at idle fix

Dsport

Member
May 29, 2020
15
0
California
Hey all, new member. Thought I’d post some advice here. Hopefully people looking to solve the terrible lifter/ engine clicking noise find this post. Before I begin, I’d like to say if you disagree with anything I have to say below no worries, this advice is intended to help those who have a specific issue, if you don’t have this issue or don’t agree with my hypothesis you are certainly entitled to your own opinions.

The problem is characterized by a bad ticking (sounds like lifters) from the top of the motor on one of both sides only when the engine is warm. It will always go away when rpms are above 2K or when the engine is cold.

firstly, with some searching you’ll find this noise is not lifters. It’s the actual cylinder sleeves bouncing up and down in the block. There are all kinds of info on this so I won’t go into detail.

I spent a lot of time hypothesizing how to fix this issue, many have solved it by a motor rebuild top-hat style cylinder sleeves, many have also fixed it by “pinning” the sleeves in place by drilling out the block and drilling/tapping for bolts that pin the sleeves in place. But I found much better, more reliable solution.

Rover made a fatal mistake when designing the D2 cooling system, the thermostat design and placement. it causes the motor to run 30+ degrees too hot. This in tern causes block expansion and sleeve slippage.

the solution is the well know “external thermostat mod” which uses a Chevy thermostat and relocates the thermostat to pre radiator (where the GM engineers intended) rather than post radiator (Rovers fubar location).

for warm climates run the cheap 160*F thermostat and drill 2qty 1/8” holes in it for flow when closed. for cold climates use the 180*F (if it still clicks, switch to 160F) . Once I completed the above, I have never once had the ticking come back.
 

Howski

Well-known member
Oct 19, 2009
1,490
211
Alabama
I ran the in line t stat for awhile but could never get it right. I honestly felt the truck drove better with the factory 180 degree replacement. That said, I had the lifter tick from time to time too. I think my driving habits had more to do with it than anything (4 mile round trip daily commute). I finally got it to go away with annual Sea Foam treatments + an Italian tuneup. I also ran some Marvel Mystery oil in the motor which helped too
 

rovercanus

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
9,650
246
I can just imagine how rich a D2 would run at 160 F. LOL
According to another genius on here, drilling out your thermostat will make too much coolant flow causing your truck to overheat.
Thank you $500 trucks for the entertainment you bring!
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,727
1,022
Northern Illinois
Hey all, new member. Thought I’d post some advice here. Hopefully people looking to solve the terrible lifter/ engine clicking noise find this post. Before I begin, I’d like to say if you disagree with anything I have to say below no worries, this advice is intended to help those who have a specific issue, if you don’t have this issue or don’t agree with my hypothesis you are certainly entitled to your own opinions.

The problem is characterized by a bad ticking (sounds like lifters) from the top of the motor on one of both sides only when the engine is warm. It will always go away when rpms are above 2K or when the engine is cold.

firstly, with some searching you’ll find this noise is not lifters. It’s the actual cylinder sleeves bouncing up and down in the block. There are all kinds of info on this so I won’t go into detail.

I spent a lot of time hypothesizing how to fix this issue, many have solved it by a motor rebuild top-hat style cylinder sleeves, many have also fixed it by “pinning” the sleeves in place by drilling out the block and drilling/tapping for bolts that pin the sleeves in place. But I found much better, more reliable solution.

Rover made a fatal mistake when designing the D2 cooling system, the thermostat design and placement. it causes the motor to run 30+ degrees too hot. This in tern causes block expansion and sleeve slippage.

the solution is the well know “external thermostat mod” which uses a Chevy thermostat and relocates the thermostat to pre radiator (where the GM engineers intended) rather than post radiator (Rovers fubar location).

for warm climates run the cheap 160*F thermostat and drill 2qty 1/8” holes in it for flow when closed. for cold climates use the 180*F (if it still clicks, switch to 160F) . Once I completed the above, I have never once had the ticking come back.
I've stood next to a shit ton of these things trying to figure out what the fuck a noise could be. Then tear it down.

Lots of lifter noise usually makes me think the oil pump gear is broken or oil psi is just dumping out some cam bearing that walked out of it's bore.

The cylinders moving and rapping the head will always show up in witness marks on the head gasket. I've also seen a couple of times a thin ring get stamped out of the headgasket and wrap around a valve, causing a dead hole. But when I have heard sleeves banging around it was slower than I would expect from lifter clatter..
 
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Dsport

Member
May 29, 2020
15
0
California
I can just imagine how rich a D2 would run at 160 F. LOL
According to another genius on here, drilling out your thermostat will make too much coolant flow causing your truck to overheat.
Thank you $500 trucks for the entertainment you bring!

I was concerned about this as well, but figured fuel efficiency was a small price to pay vs. an engine rebuild. You’d probably be able to get away with a 180F if you ran an Efan which pushed significantly more volume at idle. So far I haven’t noticed much if any efficiency differences, the truck runs and drives normally.

I don’t claim to be a genius by any means lol. During testing, I did punch out the factory thermostat completely, but it’s also critical to block off the bypass hose that routes hot coolant back into the block during warmup. The truck never got hot enough. I pinched off the hoses and used a thermal sensor to determine the noise would indeed return around ~220*F. Which I’d say is borderline overheating. The takeaway is: bring your temps down and this will most likely fix the issue in question, if you can do this with all factory parts, great.

Some motors are much more likely to develop this issue, it all depends on the machining of the block and tolerance of your cylinder bore. But it’s important to note this issue is the resultant of multiple engineering mistakes, both primarily thermal related. Liners are sweat fit, my guess it they opened up the machined bore to ease in assembly. The engineer would then calculate the expansion rate of both materials and include a safety factor constant to calculate max bore diameter. But this data was flawed and safety factor ended up being much lower b/c these truck are running much hotter than intended.
 

Dsport

Member
May 29, 2020
15
0
California
I've stood next to a shit ton of these things trying to figure out what the fuck a noise could be. Then tear it down.

Lots of lifter noise usually makes me think the oil pump gear is broken or oil psi is just dumping out some cam bearing that walked out of it's bore.

The cylinders moving and rapping the head will always show up in witness marks on the head gasket. I've also seen a couple of times a thin ring get stamped out of the headgasket and wrap around a valve, causing a dead hole. But when I have heard sleeves banging around it was slower than I would expect from lifter clatter..

exactly! amazing how this happens. I would be very hesitant to believe anyone who told me the “lifter sounding” noice was actually the sleeves bouncing up and down. But I found multiple statements just like yours that confirmed undeniably that this was true.
 

Dsport

Member
May 29, 2020
15
0
California
I ran the in line t stat for awhile but could never get it right. I honestly felt the truck drove better with the factory 180 degree replacement. That said, I had the lifter tick from time to time too. I think my driving habits had more to do with it than anything (4 mile round trip daily commute). I finally got it to go away with annual Sea Foam treatments + an Italian tuneup. I also ran some Marvel Mystery oil in the motor which helped too

Nice!
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,727
1,022
Northern Illinois
exactly! amazing how this happens. I would be very hesitant to believe anyone who told me the “lifter sounding” noice was actually the sleeves bouncing up and down. But I found multiple statements just like yours that confirmed undeniably that this was true.
Kenneth?
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,727
1,022
Northern Illinois
I don't think a lifter sounds anything like a sleeve moving around. We never see these things in the shop I work at anymore. But about 10 years ago we still did. I would get dragged to the side of a Disco2 and experienced mechanics would be asking me"what the fuck is that?"
 

Dsport

Member
May 29, 2020
15
0
California
I don't think a lifter sounds anything like a sleeve moving around. We never see these things in the shop I work at anymore. But about 10 years ago we still did. I would get dragged to the side of a Disco2 and experienced mechanics would be asking me"what the fuck is that?"

You have a trained ear sir. I don’t think it does either. But when I and many others first encountered this issue it wasn’t completely out if the question to consider a lifter or possible exhaust leak.