DIY Power Seat Controller

_ExpeditionMan

Well-known member
Dec 11, 2017
172
15
Fort Worth, TX
Has anyone tackled replacing the ridiculously over complicated power seat controller in a D1 with a set of simple switches? I'd even settle for improved mounting brackets. Getting extremely tired of mine popping out due to broken tabs and having certain movements not work due to poor quality plastics with captive ball bearings..
 
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4Runner

Well-known member
May 24, 2007
427
18
Boise Idaho
Not too sure about the D1. I don’t have a D1 with power seats. Lol. I did rewire my Classic seats and got rid of the seat ECU for seat function. It still handles the fuel door lid and the power mirrors for now. Because there aren’t any limit switches in the seats, I used a reset able circuit breaker so the motors don’t break themselves. I would have to go look to see what amperage they are. If I run out of travel then the breaker trips before anything bad happens. Have not had it trip with me in the seat while it’s moving but my first try did. I wanted to be conservative. There is probably a plug under the seat with pairs of wires for seat movement. The polarity reverses to move the other way.
 

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4Runner

Well-known member
May 24, 2007
427
18
Boise Idaho
So here are a couple more pictures. There was the blue plug for seat movement and a smaller plug for your seat heaters. The plug is oriented in diagonally. Each pair moves the seat one way. Reverse the polarity to move the seat the opposite direction. I used 20amp momentary double pole double throw switch for each function. Each pole of the switch is wired opposite to move that function one way or the other. All the power and grounds are paralleled from one switch to the next. I used a weatherproof two pole trailer plug to power all the switches. That way I can pull the whole assembly if need be. If I were doing this again , I would mount the switches a bit lower to clear the leather trim piece that I had forgotten about. Now I have to shorten the trim panel and re wrap the leather. I used glass fuses to find the limit of the power needed to move the seat without breaking anything then I purchased an ATC self resetting circuit breaker in the appropriate amperage. I don’t remember the size but it’s 10amps or less. When I wired the switches, I cut one section of wire until I liked the length and then cut all the rest of the wires, half red , half black, so they would be uniform. They are crimped, soldered and heatshrunk. I guess I had a lot of time on my hands at that point. Lol. You could really mount the switches most anywhere. Where I placed them, you do have to open the door to get your hand down there but my seats almost never get moved. I think that is about it unless you guys have more questions. My seat heater grids are broken and don’t work so I haven’t got to them yet. Just going to replace the grids with aftermarket ones.
 

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fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,850
159
Lake Villa, IL
First, I have seat controllers for sale that never fell out and worked great in my 96. The one has two missing tabs at the bottom but a little clear silicone did the trick and did not show from the outside.

Second, aren't the D2 controllers much more robust? Wouldn't it be easier to wire in a couple of those in the same location as the D1 controllers??
 

4Runner

Well-known member
May 24, 2007
427
18
Boise Idaho
Yup. I don’t know about that. I just had a Classic with two busted up switch assemblies and the ecu also didn’t work. So that’s why I went the route I did. I don’t know much about D1 or D2 and how they do it. Maybe just different switches controlling the factory seat ecu would be easier. Or your suggestion.
 

terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
463
59
I have a RRC switch in my D1 now. The mounting plate is different but swaps easy. I know some Mercedes use the same switch. I believe it was in Mercedes first.

I also have D1 aftermarket mounting plates. They definitely need some silicone even when not broken to stay in place. I am converting one of my D1s to manual seats for a number of reasons but the annoying seat controllers did contribute a little to that decision.
 
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robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
76
12
Seattle

ruglyot

Member
Sep 10, 2015
5
0
Richfield, UT
I just started last night! This is a pattern to test before I make the aluminum replacement panel. DPDT momentary that I'll wire as reversing switches running to Weatherpack connectors and ditto on factory side of harness. I'm thinking nutserts in console (maybe reinforce with metal backer first) and some nice button-head allen's to attach... I'll probably use the offset switch as forward/back since probably the most used... and I'm still "polishing" the profile shape - the front angle is a bit weird.
I'll keep you posted!16003586967201644604650830280621.jpg16003587262366138609894447276095.jpg