Does a the RTE 3in lift for a D2 require cones?

A

Angel of Death

Guest
So I'm surfing the Rovertym site and see that the 2in lift for D2s just have springs and shocks, but the 2 inch lift for RRC and D1s list cones.

The 3in lift for the D2 doesn't mention cones at all.

So are the cones a D1 only necessity?

Erik

ps, bear with me I'm still learning here
 

roverover

Well-known member
Feb 27, 2005
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Lancaster PA
www.UsedLandRoverParts.com
Cones have nothing to do with the lift at all they have to do with the length of your shocks. If you put longer shocks and removed your sway bars and the other shit on a D2 that would allow it to flex on stock springs you could use cones.
 
A

Angel of Death

Guest
So with a 3 inch lift and associated 7100s, can you keep the swaybar?

Would you need the cones with only 3 inches of lift?
 

roverover

Well-known member
Feb 27, 2005
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Lancaster PA
www.UsedLandRoverParts.com
The swaybar will limit your flex but on a D2 you need other parts to allow flex not just removing the swaybars.

Again cones have nothing to do with lift. On the west coast they do not believe in the use of cones at all You can read a lot here on the retained vs cone theories.
 
A

Angel of Death

Guest
jymmiejamz said:
If you get 10" travel shocks you will get spring retainers from RTE

Just to clarify, they come in the package deal?
 

XtremeMarine

Banned
May 27, 2005
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Vero Beach, Florida
Erik, save your money on the DII, unless you are planning some real outrageous off-roading. That's the advice I got from Steve, the owner of RTE. I ordered their 2" kit with OME shocks. Half the price of the 3" package. I still got 2.5/8 lift in the back. And 3.1/8 lift in the front. And I have a factory brush bar with the 9 " LR lights on it up front. Coupled with 265 Yoko M'T's, my truck is 4 or more inches taller than stock and can go almost anywhere I want it to. Look at Muddyoval.com under their LRSV registry (Kalahari), and you'll see what the truck looks like. Good luck and Happy Rovering. Semper Paratus. Daniel.
 

sean

Well-known member
Sep 28, 2004
2,114
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even with rte's watts and and 3" rte lift. you won't get enough drop to need cones. rte recommends retainers anyway. everything you need is included except watts linkage and corrected radius arms and they are both worth the money.
 

Mongo

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
5,731
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Not true Sean, I've been running a 3" RTE lift for 4 years, no sway bars, stock watts linkage, stock radius arms, 7100's and yoko 285 mtr...I've popped the rear springs on my D2 a couple of times. So, you need to retain them...I gained about 3 1/2" of lift all around, but I'm running a slimline up front w/mm 12k hdyro, sliders, Gd rear, full internal cage and a steel internal storage rack and a bunch of shit in the truck and mine hasn't sagged at all...

frank
 
7

79bigmack

Guest
Angel of Death said:
So I'm surfing the Rovertym site and see that the 2in lift for D2s just have springs and shocks, but the 2 inch lift for RRC and D1s list cones.

The 3in lift for the D2 doesn't mention cones at all.

So are the cones a D1 only necessity?

Erik

ps, bear with me I'm still learning here


Erik,

If you order the 3 inch kit , tell Steve (at RTE) you want the short-body 7100 shock option for the rear. The shorter body will give you more droop in the rear. With that said, it would be wise to buy the Watts Linkage as well ? they will give you more flex in the rear. Rear spring retainers come with the 3 inch kit. As for the sway bars, Steve recommends buying the Slick Rock quick disconnects for the front. They are adjustable (+3 inches I think). Then you want to move the stock front sway links to the rear (you?ll notice the front links are considerably longer than the rears ? long enough to fix the problem and alleviate the binding from the lift).

When I order my 3 inch kit I plan to add a 1 inch spacer to the rear. With the rear sway attached, I don?t think the rear spring will flex out the of the spring pocket, but hopefully I am wrong! I asked Steve about cones for the rear (via email) ? no word back yet.

The other thing you should order when you get your kit is the adjustable pan hard bar (like $160). After the lift (with stock pan hard bar) you will notice the axle has shifted slightly towards the driver?s side. The adjustable pan hard bar will fix this. (Note: after you install the lift and new pan hard bar, that it to a local tire shop and have it re-aligned).

Castor angle: Many people will tell you a 3 inch lift on a DII will not effect to the castor angle enough to warrant buying castor-corrected front trailing arms. The lift changes the pinion angles. Castor corrected trailing arms will fix that. The corrected arms are probably worth the money (like $250), but not necessary initially. You can buy the stuff below and wait on the arms.

Recap:
- Order the 3 inch kit and ask for the short-body 7100 shocks for the rear ($1254 I think. The short-body shock is slighty more $).
o You get springs, shocks, front lower shock mounts, rear spring retainers, extended brake lines, ABS extensions, crossmember spacers, and Bilstein reducer bushings.
- Order the Watts Linkage for the rear ($275).
- Order the adjustable pan hard bar for the front ($160).
- Order the front sway bar disconnects from Slick Rock (or wherever...$150?)

Hope that helps,

Mack



 
A

Angel of Death

Guest
Mack, that's all very good advice and I do appreciate it. I think though I'm going to go with the 2 inch and learn as I go, and it will save me some money as I'll be come the 25 year old freshman in January. Thank you for posting that, I will certainly come back to it when the time comes!

Semper fi

Erik
 

sean

Well-known member
Sep 28, 2004
2,114
0
mongo i said they came with retainers, you don't get enough drop to warrant cones on a d2. yes they will pop out with the swaybar off but thats why rte includes the retainers.
 

flyfisher11

Well-known member
May 25, 2005
8,676
2
61
Wolf Laurel NC
jymmiejamz said:
Does the adjustable Pan hard rod work on the DII?

Yes. What RTE does is take your stock one in and then cuts it and puts an adjustable end on it. They usually have them already made. You send in your core and they modify it for the next order which reminds me I better send Steve my core. After my 3" lift I had a lot of bind up front. I ordered the adjustable pan hard rod from RTE and it fixed it right up.

Cheers,

Mike
 

russ1

Member
May 15, 2006
24
0
I am looking at the rte 3inch lift. but i want to remove the sway bars but it has ace, i removed the sway bars the other day just for a test and there is alot more articulation so what to remove them altogether but unsure how to. Not fussed about road holding as it dont get used on road. Any help?
 

sean

Well-known member
Sep 28, 2004
2,114
0
just get a non ace belt and remove the whole assembly. i put quick disconnects on the front and moved the front links to the rear i got a little more drop, now i can only squeeze a inch more out with them off.
the ace rocks with a 3" lift, it still handles better than my stock p38.
 

russ1

Member
May 15, 2006
24
0
sean

You say you put quick disconnects on the front, how did you stop the ace from working while the sway bars are disconnected?
 

stevogabe

Active member
Nov 8, 2006
43
0
79bigmack said:
Erik,

If you order the 3 inch kit , tell Steve (at RTE) you want the short-body 7100 shock option for the rear. The shorter body will give you more droop in the rear. With that said, it would be wise to buy the Watts Linkage as well ? they will give you more flex in the rear. Rear spring retainers come with the 3 inch kit. As for the sway bars, Steve recommends buying the Slick Rock quick disconnects for the front. They are adjustable (+3 inches I think). Then you want to move the stock front sway links to the rear (you?ll notice the front links are considerably longer than the rears ? long enough to fix the problem and alleviate the binding from the lift).

When I order my 3 inch kit I plan to add a 1 inch spacer to the rear. With the rear sway attached, I don?t think the rear spring will flex out the of the spring pocket, but hopefully I am wrong! I asked Steve about cones for the rear (via email) ? no word back yet.

The other thing you should order when you get your kit is the adjustable pan hard bar (like $160). After the lift (with stock pan hard bar) you will notice the axle has shifted slightly towards the driver?s side. The adjustable pan hard bar will fix this. (Note: after you install the lift and new pan hard bar, that it to a local tire shop and have it re-aligned).

Castor angle: Many people will tell you a 3 inch lift on a DII will not effect to the castor angle enough to warrant buying castor-corrected front trailing arms. The lift changes the pinion angles. Castor corrected trailing arms will fix that. The corrected arms are probably worth the money (like $250), but not necessary initially. You can buy the stuff below and wait on the arms.

Recap:
- Order the 3 inch kit and ask for the short-body 7100 shocks for the rear ($1254 I think. The short-body shock is slighty more $).
o You get springs, shocks, front lower shock mounts, rear spring retainers, extended brake lines, ABS extensions, crossmember spacers, and Bilstein reducer bushings.
- Order the Watts Linkage for the rear ($275).
- Order the adjustable pan hard bar for the front ($160).
- Order the front sway bar disconnects from Slick Rock (or wherever...$150?)

Hope that helps,

Mack

very well written. thank you for the advice. Did you change your drive shafts?