Engine bearings

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,927
201
Lake Villa, IL
So I've got a 4.6 14CUX engine on a stand, let's just call it a 3.9 for technical talk. I wasn't planning on getting too crazy with the rebuild, but looking at the front camshaft bearing I'm wondering if I shouldn't replace it along with the rest of the camshaft bearings, and maybe even the rod and main bearings?
Who's done these?
How big of a pain is it?
Tips?
 

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Jeff Blake

Well-known member
May 6, 2016
429
16
Pacific Beach, San Diego
Hard to tell, but it looks like some shiny wear down the middle at the bottom. does it pass fingernail test? I guess you could bore gage them to be absolutely certain, but I would just replace them

IMO it's a no brainer to replace cam, rod, and main bearings when doing any rebuild. The bearings should be cheap enough from Turner Engineering, probably 60 bucks for all 3 sets.

I had a machine shop put in my cam bearings, because they were putting in flanged sleeves for me anyway. Or, I heard you can borrow a cam bearing installation tool from AutoZone and DIY. Gonna have a tough time without the tool (and it's like $300). Make sure to line up the oil feed holes

this is the set for the 3.9: https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/stc-1961-camshaft-bearing-set-c2x20634667
 

wrldky

Well-known member
Apr 21, 2004
410
7
Raleigh, NC
I also had a shop change mine when i was have liners put in. My opinion is that you already have the engine out change it. Also change the oil plugs! If I had to do it all over again I would probably change the Flex plate on the transmission as well. There are a ton of videos on how to properly install bearings on line.
 

PhD_Polymath

Well-known member
Feb 6, 2015
104
1
Slightly west of Boston
I always have a machinist replace the cam bearings during my rebuilds. Just make sure to get the proper bearings. If you buy unfinished bearings, they have to be line-honed once installed to bring them to proper spec. That would drive the cost up significantly, at least in my case. Also, be sure to leave the new camshaft with the machinist so they can ensure the cam turns within the bearings once done. Lastly, double check that they didn't clock the bearings incorrectly, blocking an oiling hole. I had to have a shop redo mine when they clocked one so it wouldn't get oil.
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,927
201
Lake Villa, IL
Not sure what the fingernail test is, but it looks like the old camshaft dragged a little on the front bearing as I pulled it out and left a tiny gouge. AutoZone has the good bearing remover/installation tool for rent so I'll just go that route. I've watched a few YouTube videos on cam, crank, and main bearing where I'm pretty much an expert now. :ROFLMAO:
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,927
201
Lake Villa, IL
Ok, so getting back to my 4.6/3.9 situation. I'm trying to figure out main and rod bearings.
The serial # on my block is S46D44408A, CR9.35:1. Using the chart on Rimmer Bros site I've determined its a 4.6 high compression, most likely from a 95+ P38 Range Rover. https://rimmerbros.com/content--name-Rover-V8-Engine-Numbers
Can someone with more knowledge confirm by choices for bearings based on this info?
Main Bearings: STC4299, need to measure for .10 https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC4299

Rod Bearings: STC1426, need to measure for .10 0r .20 over https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC1426

Camshaft Bearings: This I'm not sure if the camshaft bearings follow the block, or the camshaft being used? I am using a Crower 50229 in place of the stock 3.9 camshaft that was in there.
- If the bearings follow the camshaft then I have RTC5918 https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/RTC5918
- If the bearings follow the block then I have STC1961 https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC1961F

Thanks in advance! (BTW, I don't plan on purchasing from AB)
 

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WaltNYC

Well-known member
Mar 3, 2010
707
135
NYC
Not sure if this is a distinction without a difference but that page seems to indicate your block came from Morgan +8, EFI

S46D0000AMorgan +8 9.35:1cr efi
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,927
201
Lake Villa, IL
Not sure if this is a distinction without a difference but that page seems to indicate your block came from Morgan +8, EFI

S46D0000AMorgan +8 9.35:1cr efi
Hmmm that's interesting. My block has the serial # starting with "S" like the Morgan, but has 5 digits before the "A" like the P38....