Engine Conversion Kit

RoyLuke

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Apr 18, 2007
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1996 Disco 1, 4.0 Litre

I am just starting to look into the conversion of my old Landy to the Chevy engine.
There seems to be several vendors with the conversion kits.
What is the best one for a Disco 1 ?
I have done 3 engine changes so far and this one is not going to last so it may be time to put it a Yank Tank engine.

TNX
Roy


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LRDONE

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Dec 3, 2020
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Just out of curiosity. Has anyone ever considered the 1.9 ALH Diesel volkswagen engine? very simple engine and harness. I'll tell you, .520 nozzles and a tune and you meet the specs of the 300tdi. I'm sure the weight and driveline of the rover would bring it's fuel economy down but at those numbers in a car it's a 50mpg car.
 
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p m

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With all respect to a 300TDi, its torque and power are barely adequate to move a Disco on the highway. The peak torque of a 300TDi is achieved by a 4-liter right off idle, and V8 keeps going up to 2800 rpm (by which time TDi is almost dead).
1.9-liter 4-banger turbodiesel will never be adequate in a D1.
 

LRDONE

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Idk, I still have to argue it. It seems to work pretty good in jeeps and toyota's with 35s. as far as rpm an the tdi being dead. 2800 on a v8 yes of course. However the 4 cylinder, they love rpm.
 
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p m

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300TDi is a four-cylinder engine, too.
You can gut the D1, chop the roof, remove all heat and sound insulation, extra seats, spare tire, whatever - then it'll be close[r] to a 2-door Wrangler in weight. Still, even Wrangler guys would much rather have a 4BT or OM617 or OM606 than a VW under-two-liter diesel.
Tire size doesn't matter much - you can always comp with gearing (brakes become progressively more useless which can't be helped).
 

LRDONE

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I still think the 1.9 would work. vnt/17 turbo, .764 nozzles and I tune you're gonna be in the 200-250 range for torque. I just don't see how that wouldn't work. You can make that motor whatever you want for cheap compared to a lot of other things. it was just a thought. And only a thought based off my experience with them. Very simple, efficient, cheap engine.
 
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p m

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I still think the 1.9 would work. vnt/17 turbo, .764 nozzles and I tune you're gonna be in the 200-250 range for torque. I just don't see how that wouldn't work. You can make that motor whatever you want for cheap compared to a lot of other things. And on top of it all, it was just a thought. And only a thought based off my experience with them. Very simple, efficient, cheap engine.
It is as useful an armchair quarterbacking discussion as it gets.
However:
- VW diesel was meant to propel a ~3000-lb vehicle (2000-ish Jetta), with roughly 60% of a D1's frontal area and about 80% of Cd. I would also factor in about 30% loss in drivetrain efficiency of a D1 compared to a Jetta.
It takes about 2.5 times more power to keep a D1 rolling than a Jetta at the same speed. That is in benign conditions, neglecting heavy acceleration or high demand in mud, snow, or sand, and high-heat or cold conditions.
Are the crankshaft bearings up to snuff? Given the rate of crank failures with PSA-designed diesels in ROW LR3/4, I wouldn't think so, even if it is not a direct comparison.
But - I am sure you've seen this before.
 

LRDONE

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It is as useful an armchair quarterbacking discussion as it gets.
However:
- VW diesel was meant to propel a ~3000-lb vehicle (2000-ish Jetta), with roughly 60% of a D1's frontal area and about 80% of Cd. I would also factor in about 30% loss in drivetrain efficiency of a D1 compared to a Jetta.
It takes about 2.5 times more power to keep a D1 rolling than a Jetta at the same speed. That is in benign conditions, neglecting heavy acceleration or high demand in mud, snow, or sand, and high-heat or cold conditions.
Are the crankshaft bearings up to snuff? Given the rate of crank failures with PSA-designed diesels in ROW LR3/4, I wouldn't think so, even if it is not a direct comparison.
But - I am sure you've seen this before.
I'm not knocking anything that you're saying, only questioning. I agree with what the 1.9 was designed for. But it's been proven time after time with very light modification there is no reliability loss and you end up with something equal to the 300tdi in terms of horsepower and torque. So why on earth would the 1.9 not be able to do what the 300tdi does in a D1? In my eyes you gain reliability, fuel economy, parts availability at a more affordable price. Then there's the option of taking the motor further for more horsepower and torque if desired. And easily too! Then at the end of the day you get to keep the cool factor of it sounding like the old 300tdi. If that's what you're in to I guess.
 

p m

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But it's been proven time after time with very light modification there is no reliability loss and you end up with something equal to
I don't doubt that - with a hugely important caveat: reliability in the original vehicle.
The only reason modified engines last on the street is that the everyday driving power demands are unchanged.
Not apples-to-apples comparisons, but nonetheless:
- a Touareg with a V8 could tow 7716 lbs. But if you do tow this with a Touareg, the transmission would die in 40k miles.
- a Ford Lightning EV truck can tow 7700 lbs. But as people found out, 300-mile range turns into 58-mile range when you tow a 7k lbs boat/trailer combo.

I have to work, so I'll bow out of this discussion.
 

RoyLuke

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Apr 18, 2007
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At one time I had two complete engine assemblies for this Landy. One "threw a rod". End of engine.
I am down to one assy and it has several issues.
The aluminium block has reached the end of its' useful life.
I must look for an alternative. Within a year, I'll bet there will be an electrical motor swap option.
 

LRDONE

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Dec 3, 2020
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I don't doubt that - with a hugely important caveat: reliability in the original vehicle.
The only reason modified engines last on the street is that the everyday driving power demands are unchanged.
Not apples-to-apples comparisons, but nonetheless:
- a Touareg with a V8 could tow 7716 lbs. But if you do tow this with a Touareg, the transmission would die in 40k miles.
- a Ford Lightning EV truck can tow 7700 lbs. But as people found out, 300-mile range turns into 58-mile range when you tow a 7k lbs boat/trailer combo.

I have to work, so I'll bow out of this discussion.
I understand, however, I'm not talking about touaregs or lightnings. I'm talking about specifically the 1.9 ALH and it's proven reliability. It's pretty dang hard to find one without bigger nozzles and a tune with less than 250,000 miles. lol they just work. Again, it was just a thought. I drive my tdi every day, I drive my rover a lot, I often dream of that combination. About the work thing, I understand.
 

LRDONE

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Dec 3, 2020
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At one time I had two complete engine assemblies for this Landy. One "threw a rod". End of engine.
I am down to one assy and it has several issues.
The aluminium block has reached the end of its' useful life.
I must look for an alternative. Within a year, I'll bet there will be an electrical motor swap option.
For the electric swap, I think your transmission would packs it's bags and head south before you even got it bolted up.
 

modernbeat

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Aug 19, 2017
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Dallas, TX
I'm swapping a 300hp LS engine in front of a built R380 and LT230 in my RRC.
Using the Marks 4WD kit because I wanted to keep the manual transmission.
If I had a Defender I could use a TR4050 and the RW Engineering kit, but the RRC and Disco 1 shifters need to be further back than the Tremec and RW parts can accommodate.

If you want an automatic, the RW Engineering kit is the right way to go.
 

jymmiejamz

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Dec 5, 2004
6,008
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Los Angeles, Ca
I'm swapping a 300hp LS engine in front of a built R380 and LT230 in my RRC.
Using the Marks 4WD kit because I wanted to keep the manual transmission.
If I had a Defender I could use a TR4050 and the RW Engineering kit, but the RRC and Disco 1 shifters need to be further back than the Tremec and RW parts can accommodate.

If you want an automatic, the RW Engineering kit is the right way to go.
An ax15 shifter ends up in the right spot using the RW kit
 
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terryjm1

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Jan 23, 2011
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I’m planning to build up a 4.0 to 4.6 using internals salvaged from a used 4.6. I already have all the 4.6 needed internals and everything is still in standard spec. I had the crankshaft polished (probably didn’t need it) and the rods checked/cleaned. I believe the 4.6 had right around 100k. At 100k and still within standard spec, I’d say that is pretty good. My current 4.0 has about 125,000 miles and runs quite well. While I can’t say the cylinder walls in the 4.0 I plan to use will be within standard spec, if they are, this a pretty inexpensive rebuild. If I have to rebore and buy pistons, that does add a good amount of expense. I’m optimistic the cylinders will be ok as it burns next to no oil as far as I can perceive.

My goal is to wait until it “needs” to be replaced. Fuel economy definitely could be better but for reliability, I can’t complain as it still runs great.

I have another D1 that I swapped in a 300tdi and R380. It is very underpowered and pulling a small utility trailer (mountain roads/highways) is out of the question. I will admit, I am using the V8 transfer case (1.2) and I strongly suspect that replacing it with a 1.4 would really help and considering this one will almost never see the interstate, increasing rpm’s would not matter much. I only use 5th gear (with the 1.2 t-case) when going downhill. I just never get going fast enough to need it and keep the engine from lugging. It gets about 23 mpg now but with diesel prices so much more than gas, the increased fuel economy isn’t as much a benefit as it once was. Also, the 300tdi is an old school diesel and it is really smelly.

Frankly, for ease of installation, cost, and cost competitive reliability, I think an early 4.0 built up to 4.6 is about as good as you can get. Are there better options, of course. But for what you will spend either for the engine/trans and adapter parts combined with the labor required, you could go through several Rover V8s.

Rover V8s get a bad rap in my opinion. Up until the slipped liners in the newest 4.6 version, 3.5-4.0 is pretty darn reliable if you provide proper overall maintenance. I will admit, failed head gaskets that became much more prominent in the 4.0 is disappointing. The 3.5s I have had over the years never had head gasket problems.

If you buy a D1 used with a bunch of miles, there is a good chance it hasn’t been properly maintained. My current project D1 needed just about everything but the engine replaced. Radiator was clogged, water pump leaking, original hoses, lots of leaking gaskets and seals, clogged and rattling catalytic converter, as well as a host of other odds and ends that would in short order lead to engine damage. It has 125,,000 miles and is 27 years old. I’d say that is pretty darn good. If previous owners had done normal repairs and maintenance…

All that being said, it’s all about personal wants in this area. If you want to put a VW diesel in it, I’d really enjoy you creating a post that details how you get it all done.

Another thought, if you are interested in diesel, a 300tdi has become a lot less expensive recently as Defender people are jettisoning them for Cummins and LS swaps all the time. 300tdi was all the rage 10ish years ago. I purchased a rebuilt R380 from a Defender guy who removed it and the rebuilt 300tdi after only running it for 5000 miles. He replaced it with an LS and automatic. A 300tdi also is a lot simpler as you will be using parts originally intended for the vehicle. A 300tdi is a very reliable engine. Pair it with a 5 speed and 1.4 transfer case along with realistic performance expectations and it is, IMHO, a nice option. Also, silly I know, if there is an EMP that wipes out electronics, I will still have an operational vehicle. (I am mostly joking about an EMP.)

I was considering doing another 300tdi but have decided one is enough. I have acquired just about everything to do the swap but will just keep it all for spares. That may well be pointless as I wouldn’t be the least bit surprised if the currently installed 300tdi and R380 outlives me. When I get too old to turn wrenches, I will probably take all the spares to a metal recycler as by then nobody will want any of it.
 
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